Jeffeb3's MP3DPV2 "The Sequel"

New Home Forum Milled Printed 3D Printer -MP3DP Your Builds – MP3DP Jeffeb3's MP3DPV2 "The Sequel"

This topic contains 139 replies, has 18 voices, and was last updated by  Jeffeb3 3 months ago.

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  • #61851

    Geoffrey
    Participant

    It looks like the wall is going from 3 lines to 4 lines right there.  So a touch of overextrusion would give you the result you’re seeing.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #61852

    Bill
    Participant

    Yeah, the transition from an outside wall with infill to an outside wall and an inside wall with no infill. Is there a minimum wall thickness setting that forces the double sided wall to be a bit thicker than the model calls for?

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #61853

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    The front-most part of the boat is the worst offender though, and that’s still 20% infill with 3 perimeters.

    I did a test print with the minimum fan speed set to 80% (It was 40%) and I increased the minimum layer size for cooling, so it would cool on more layers. The results look like it’s 80-90% better. It’s so hard to photograph, or I would post a pic. Sorry.

    Interestingly, when I was waiting again for it to happen, I noticed that a gray 3DBenchy on my desk has the same artifact (I just didn’t notice because of the other strange artifacts on it). So I guess I’ve been battling this one before 🙂

    I think it’s too hot, either I’m extruding too hot, or the cooling fan isn’t doing enough on that layer, so when it goes to the much smaller layer, things stay too hot, and it gets smashed down, which looks like it’s smashed out. I’ll play more with the temperature settings, and hopefully not have to make 10 more useless boats.

    #61892

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    IMG_20180619_131924

    Thanks everyone for your ideas. I’m happy with these. I think I will just keep the fan up pretty high with this filament.

    IMG_20180619_131953

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #69037

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Well, darn. My heater cartridge seems to be dead. Won’t heat up, I get a thermal runaway protection error, and I’m getting 12V on the screw terminals. It’s either the heater wires, or the cartidge…

    I’m looking on amazon, and there are like 12 packs for $15. Who needs 12 of these?

    #69039

    BT
    Participant

    I guess it depends on how often they fail.  Sort of like nozzles – it’s hard to find just 1 on amazon, but I’ve only ever replaced a nozzle when I shifted from 0.4 to 0.5.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #69170

    Bill
    Participant

    I just picked up a package of the new style E3D heating blocks from Aliexpress, there were four blocks, silicone socks and temperature sensors each in the package. Since they didn’t include heaters I picked up a package of heater cartridges and there were five in the package… So I have an extra. 😉

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #69173

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I ended up ordering a “genuine E3D” heater cartridge (it has blue leads!) and I have a not-so-genuine heater block, so we’ll see how it goes. I just couldn’t figure out which parts bin the extra 11 would go in, so this is better for my sanity.

    #69174

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    In other news, I did have a funny print where every few layers, the X or Y was off by 1mm or so. Not exactly in random directions, but I couldn’t figure out what was going on.

    Turns out, Marlin has a M911 command for the TMC drivers, and they were overheating. I just turned off the huge fan because I didn’t think I needed it.

    So I built a crappy enclosure for the controller, PSU and a fan to cool them down. It has given me a lot to think about, and I want to make a nice one.

    #69175

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I just picked up a package of the new style E3D heating blocks from Aliexpress, there were four blocks, silicone socks and temperature sensors each in the package. Since they didn’t include heaters I picked up a package of heater cartridges and there were five in the package… So I have an extra. ?

    If this one doesn’t fit, then I’m going to get you to send it to me.

    #69534

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Well, it’s too long, but it’s a tight fit. Plus, it has blue cables. It’s alive again. Thanks to common parts and simple, editable design. I hate proprietary!

    #70442

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I have been having trouble with my 3D Touch (bl touch knock off). I finally did an M48 (after enabling in the firmware):

    M48 V2 P20
    SENDING:M48 V2 P20
    M48 Z-Probe Repeatability Test
    1 of 20: z: 0.155
    2 of 20: z: 0.185
    3 of 20: z: 0.140
    4 of 20: z: 0.157
    5 of 20: z: 0.105
    6 of 20: z: 0.162
    7 of 20: z: 0.125
    8 of 20: z: 0.170
    9 of 20: z: 0.127
    10 of 20: z: 0.167
    11 of 20: z: 0.177
    12 of 20: z: 0.175
    13 of 20: z: 0.227
    14 of 20: z: 0.095
    15 of 20: z: 0.167
    16 of 20: z: 0.125
    17 of 20: z: 0.080
    18 of 20: z: 0.085
    19 of 20: z: 0.102
    20 of 20: z: 0.200
    Finished!
    Mean: 0.146500 Min: 0.080 Max: 0.227 Range: 0.148
    Standard Deviation: 0.038990

    What a mess!

    So I bought a legit BL touch from the rainforest of the amazon, and it’s working much better now. I can’t find the actualy M48 command I did, but the range was 0.004 or so… Much better.

    I changed the grid to be 9×9 because, I’m not in any hurry:

    Bilinear Leveling Grid:
          0      1      2      3      4      5      6      7      8
     0 +0.032 +0.077 +0.122 +0.130 +0.105 +0.017 -0.108 -0.313 -0.520
     1 -0.008 +0.035 +0.070 +0.082 +0.060 -0.028 -0.150 -0.325 -0.563
     2 -0.030 -0.003 +0.047 +0.070 +0.040 -0.055 -0.173 -0.365 -0.613
     3 -0.048 -0.025 +0.035 +0.042 +0.012 -0.080 -0.195 -0.403 -0.633
     4 -0.065 -0.033 +0.017 +0.040 +0.005 -0.090 -0.215 -0.423 -0.630
     5 -0.072 -0.030 +0.000 +0.012 -0.023 -0.125 -0.235 -0.423 -0.650
     6 -0.072 -0.040 -0.003 +0.010 -0.015 -0.113 -0.238 -0.438 -0.650
     7 -0.065 -0.040 -0.015 -0.010 -0.038 -0.125 -0.240 -0.428 -0.618
     8 -0.085 -0.072 -0.043 -0.030 -0.045 -0.130 -0.250 -0.428 -0.613

    You can see that the right side of my bed is 0.6mm lower than the left/center sides! Yikes. Maybe I should have just replaced my heated bed instead of spending money on these sensors?

    I also enabled the G26, which prints this neat grid all over the place, and you can look for any high or low spots:

    IMG_20180924_112517

    I’m pretty happy with that. There are a few more pics of it in my album.

    I’ve also put the whole thing on a box, and added a fan to the box. I plan on carving something cool for it later, but I wanted to get a feel for it before I did that, so I just cut some boards and put some screws in it for now. I say that, and it will probably be the MP3DP V3 that gets a fancy box.

    #70445

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    The one problem I’m still having is that the X belt keeps coming off. Maybe the homing is more brutal with the TMC sensorless homing, but the part of the belt that sticks into the X carriage, and is held there by the teeth keeps coming off. The part held by zip ties is fine, but the other part has come off a few times. I replaced the belt, because those teeth looked like they were getting a little smaller, and the new belt just came off for the first time. Luckily, it seems to happen when it’s homing, which is at the beginning, and I get a “homing failed” not a failed print.

    Anyone have a solution for this? Should I reprint my X carriage? Should I add some hot glue?

    #70446

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Well….probably a different name but I do want a drop Z bed….

    I was just leveled a bed this morning and realized I should probably do a little how I do a manual bed leveling.

    My BL is dead, if your in a hurry to plug something in and 50/50 chance of plugging it in seems like it isn’t a gamble, don’t do it.

    #70447

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Anyone have a solution for this?

    Oye, maybe I need to add a zip tie hole. I would say a drop of CA glue will fix it up and be temporary.

    #70448

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    My BL is dead, if your in a hurry to plug something in and 50/50 chance of plugging it in seems like it isn’t a gamble, don’t do it.

    https://media.giphy.com/media/GJVpbMjfT2Ftm/giphy.gif

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #70505

    Andy
    Participant

    dunno if this helps with issues you’ve had Jeff but I was watching Chris Riley on YT and he did an episode on changing out your lead screw from 4 start to 1 start. This allows your steppers to have 4 times the resolution for your layers. Put another way it means that for each layer the printer is not having to round / do microstepping to get to some of your layers. Not sure if that’s the issue you were having but it was a really good video and very informative. Not a massively expensive mod either.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #70508

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    dunno if this helps with issues you’ve had Jeff but I was watching Chris Riley on YT and he did an episode on changing out your lead screw from 4 start to 1 start. This allows your steppers to have 4 times the resolution for your layers. Put another way it means that for each layer the printer is not having to round / do microstepping to get to some of your layers. Not sure if that’s the issue you were having but it was a really good video and very informative. Not a massively expensive mod either.

    Thanks, I’ll check it out. I installed integrated leadscrew motors so it wouldn’t be as cheap to replace them. I don’t think that’s the problem though. I have the Z axis set to 400 steps/mm which is 0.0025mm per step. I know that’s microstepping, full steps would be 0.04mm/full step. That’s still a lot of resolution, but I’m definitely getting more than that with the microstepping. I’ll watch any suggested YT video though. 🙂

    #70509

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Video:

    I don’t like that he completely dismissed the impact of microstepping. It’s definitely getting better resolution than full steps and I would guess that with the leadscrews there is so little friction that it’s getting very close to 1/16th resolution. The other part is the autoleveling doesn’t start at 0.2, 0.4, 0.6. It moves around all the time.

    #70522

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    He leveled his bed in a way that makes me cringe as well. Other than that I watch a bunch of his videos.

    #70526

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    He leveled his bed in a way that makes me cringe as well. Other than that I watch a bunch of his videos.

    Agreed. He has been coming up with more and more of my search terms. Generally good stuff.

    #72797

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Well, I was planning on working on my low rider today, so I printed some M2.5 spacers so I could attach the boards to my box, and I guess when I was moving my printer around yesterday, one of my connections came loose, and I lost power to my extruder fan :'(

    So the little print I was doing jammed, the PTFE tube melted a bit, and fused with the filament… Time to take apart the extruder!

    But I have a pile of parts I have been waiting to install (I love changing things on this printer). So I guess now is a good time to work on that stuff.

    The big upgrade is that I’m installing an Einsy Rambo! No more huge nest of wires for the trinamic SPI bus. There will just be a huge nest of wires for everything else now.

    The other stuff are some parts for the extruder:
    – New heat block. This one is “authentic” E3D the knock off one didn’t quite fit in the E3D heat sock.
    – New hot end thermistor (because the authentic one doesn’t fit my crappy thermistor)
    – New nozzle. I bought a pack of different sized nozzles, and they are all a bit longer than the one I’m using. I’m going to just install the 0.4mm one for now, but after I get that working, I should be able to swap them out without changing the probe setup.
    – 5V fan for the extruder and the part fan. This is because the Einsy Rambo has 5V fan pins. I hope it doesn’t get mad that I don’t have the RPM signal hooked up.
    – Replacing a few more duponts with the JST-XH connectors. I am so tired of getting burnt by my crappy wiring!

    For the record, on this printer, I think the Einsy Retro would be better, but I got a good deal on the Einsy Rambo. The retro (for retrofit) has 12V fan connections and it’s missing the pi port. It also has all endstops wired out, but one fewer thermistor input.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #72870

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    OK. I haven’t printed yet. I have a little more wire management around the gantry to do, but I’ve reprogrammed the board, and surprisingly, I had to make very few changes to get it to work. I already had TMC2130s, but still, I have a BLTOUCH and I’m using sensorless homing, and it was very little work. The things I did have to change (That I’ve found so far are):

    1) Changed the board to BOARD_EINSY_RAMBO, duh
    2) Changed the R_SENSE to 0.22, because this has 0.22 Ohm R_SENSE.
    3) This has two 5V fan outputs, so I wired the extruder fan to one of them, and I needed to configure it as an extruder fan. In Configuration_adv.h, there is a #define E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN 6. Now, when the extruder temperature goes over 50C, the fan will be on. Pretty neat, IMHO.
    4) I had to invert the direction of the steppers, because I wired every one backward from the previous controller. Oops.

    I really like how there aren’t 15 SPI wires and dodgy soldering and heatsink all over it. It really is much nicer to have everything in it’s proper place. I am glad I learned on my cheapo board, and I learned a lot, but this is just so much easier.

    #72872

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    This is probably my favorite part about the TMC drivers:


    Recv: DRVSTATUS X Y Z E0
    Recv: stallguard
    Recv: sg_result 0 0 0 0
    Recv: fsactive
    Recv: stst X X X X
    Recv: olb
    Recv: ola X

    Clearly, my E0 has a wiring problem on loop A. How great is that? No more debugging necessary, I just need to track down that disconnect.

    #72876

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    What does that mean? Firmware setting or physical issue?

    #72890

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    It’s not formatted well in the forums, but there is an X next to ola for the E0 motor. That means the driver detected an open loop on the a winding of the motor. So wiring.

    #73428

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I jist got back to it, and I found the issue was a crimp that got out of control and severed the wires on one of the extruder extension wires I made. It’s printing now.

    #74271

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    So, I went on a big tangent. With the new nozzle, the bltouch wasn’t down quite enough. The strap and bltouch mount and the X part, even, had gotten waroed at some point and the whole X was a little dodgy. Inspired by some of the other mounts here, I made one for the v6 and bltouch that I think is pretty good. I can finally remove the bltouch without removing my extruder :).

    Old parts, quite warped:
    IMG_20181101_081800

    #74274

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Oops, hit submit too soon.

    IMG_20181101_081134

    Printing a new lcd mount:
    IMG_20181101_121314

    Lcd mount looks good (black was printed on the wanhao):
    IMG_20181101_194148

    I have on my todo list to post all the parts I’ve made. I will do that, but if I forget and anyone wants them, let me know and I’ll post them.

    The last thing I have to do is the wires right at the nozzle. I ditched the tape measure thing, it was interfering with my Z height and having it attached to the X motor was making the wires too short. I’m going to go out the back now, I just need to do some more crimping and maybe add a part for strain relief.

    #74307

    Aaryn
    Participant

    I ended up ordering a “genuine E3D” heater cartridge (it has blue leads!) and I have a not-so-genuine heater block, so we’ll see how it goes. I just couldn’t figure out which parts bin the extra 11 would go in, so this is better for my sanity.

    It has been a couple years since I bought genuin E3D parts but they had two types of heaters.  The ones with the Blue Leads were their 24V I think and the Read leads were their 12 V.  I could be wrong.  I just know that I ordered directly from them twice.  The first set was 12 v and had red.  The second order was 24v and had blue.

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