Jeffeb3's Low Rider Build

New Home Forum LowRider Your Builds – LowRider Jeffeb3's Low Rider Build

This topic contains 106 replies, has 9 voices, and was last updated by  Ryan 2 years, 2 months ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 31 through 60 (of 107 total)
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  • #25978

    Jason
    Participant

    I don’t have anywhere within a 4 hour drive that sells filament 🙁 $15 a roll delivered for MG is about the cheapest I can get – I just don’t get to choose my color at that price (their grab bag or the monthly mystery box.) but for that price I’m happy with whatever color I can get 😀

    Right now you have to buy 4 rolls to get that price…but from time to time they offer that price on 2 rolls which is when I took advantage of it.

    I’ve actually got some cool colors that way too. First time they sent me my daughters favorite turquoise and a yellow (which was a color I had been wanting) and the second time they sent me “bomber jacket brown” which is almost black and glow in the dark which were both pretty fun 😀

    BTW – Looking forward to seeing the low riders up and running. Seriously considering building one myself since I just won a DWP611 at Instructables with my instructable on making the needle cutter for my MPCNC 😀 Would love to shrink my MPCNC back down to 2’x2′ for milling and build a low-rider to use for cutting foamboard and other bigger things instead. Would also let me use more of my table as a workbench when I’m not cutting which would be great since space is at a MAJOR premium in my shop!

    #25979

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    You won????!!!!!!! No way so awesome!

    #25985

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Jason I put you on the front page, hope you appreciate the humor. Thanks for entering, and using the MPCNC.

    #25991

    Barry
    Participant

    Hahahahahahahahahahahaha!

    #26005

    Jason
    Participant

    Oh man that’s great 😀 Most definitely appreciate the humor, almost woke her up laughing as I read it!

    And thanks again for designing this, a year ago I thought the idea of a 3D printed CNC was ridiculous, then thought it was way more printing than I wanted to tackle…then wound up printing all the parts twice and now love having a machine and wish I had room for more than one 😀

    BTW – On the topic of the Low Rider…I was thinking on my way home from work today. I wonder if 3D printed wheels in TPU would work. Looks like it would be printable…and with enough infill TPU is surprisingly stiff. I’m tempted to draw one up and try printing it just for fun.

    #26006

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Tpu should work, could probably even make them more narrow.

    #26013

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    That’s a great Instructable. Maybe I should take my MPCNC and move it into the basement for needle cutting once I have the LR working.

    #26014

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I’ve been thinking more about my table… I saw that the calculator is up, and I’m going to make the first piece 60″x40″ because it will give me at least 48″x24″, and the numbers are round.

    @vicious1, The calculator adds 14.6″ to the Y length. On your build, it looks like you just made those triangles extend that distance, is that right? It seems like a good idea, not just for saving material, but also for getting the edge clamps in towards the workpiece. If I make some removable triangles, then my first cutting area will be 48″x40″, which is pretty nice for that space.

    The one thing I’m concerned about now is clamping the workpiece. I’m thinking of upping the top skin to be 1/2″ material instead of 1/4″, which would make the whole thing be 4.25″ thick. Then I could use a screw or two when I get in a tough spot. I can also drill 7/8″ holes for my F clamps through the whole thing, but unless they clamp over one of the supports, I’m guessing they could deform the box… I should stop worrying and just build it, I think.

    #26015

    Jason
    Participant

    Glad to hear you liked it!

    The needle cutter is a lot of fun, with 20×30 sheets of foam only costing $1 it’s quick and cheap to work with. The biggest issue I have with it is the noise:

    It’s not THAT bad when it’s just idling…but once it starts punching holes in the foam…it’s a bit obnoxious. Thankfully my shop is in a detached outbuilding so I can make all the noise I want out there – even if I have to wear hearing protection when I do so 😀

    I’ve been having even more fun with the laser lately since it’s silent and I have piles of scrap cardboard I can cut. But the smoke and smell are a drawback – need to upgrade the ventilation in my shop now and that will spoil the quiet 😉

    Think I may work on a wheel design I can print in TPU while I wait for you guys to get your low riders built. Been beta testing too many things lately to dig in on another just yet! But really thinking a low rider for the needle and a smaller MPCNC for my spindle and laser will work out a lot better for me overall.

    #26021

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Yeah, I wanted to mute that video by the end. Not terribly loud, but super annoying. I would wear earmuffs too. I have made a few D$ foamies with a knife, and I’m a terrible plane pilot, so I go through them quite quickly. 🙂 At some point I’ll get back into that.

    My space for this kind of stuff is kind of disjointed.
    – I have a 16’x10′ shed out back, which is basically the table saw, miter saw, band saw, drill press and router.
    – I have the garage, which has to still store 2 cars, and gets the most scrutiny from my wife. The garage has the MPCNC, my bike (pedals, not motors) tools, Circular saw, and small mechanical stuff. It also stores my bikes, and my hockey gear, because no one wants that in the house.
    – I have a large area in the basement that I have my soldering, electronics, quadcopters, 3D printer, etc. I also have an area in the basement for doing some finishing of WW projects, but that depends on the project fitting down the stairs.

    I would have preferred to keep my MPCNC in the basement, but it makes too much dust. Some dust is OK, but the amount of MDF dust this thing makes with a 1/8″ bit is too much.

    I’m planning on putting the LR in the space that the MPCNC is, ready to cut “small” stuff, and then roll it out where my car was to cut big stuff. But who knows…

    #26025

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I will double check but be careful of the thickness. I think 4.25″ is the absolute max if not a little less.

    Yeah the ends of the table are just wheel extensions, and I did it so I could clamp or screw the material.

    I guess now is a good time to point out screwing down the material is almost the only option, clamps will always get in the way, wedge clamps would be the better option. Luckily just a few screws should be enough around the edges, a full sheet doesn’t like to move much.

    #26026

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    OK, I’m going to build the first one 60″x36″, and then make some wheel extensions that are removable. I’ll also stick another piece of frame at a 45degree angle in the first chunk to be able to clamp smaller material in place there. I hope I can get some time this weekend to do that, but work is going to be a bit crazy the next 2 weeks, so we’ll see.

    #26041

    Jason
    Participant

    Unfortunately my $2 harbor freight hearing protectors don’t do a great job at blocking the needle cutter noise. They block my shop vac and router well…but the needle cutter is still obnoxious 🙁

    Space for me is hyper limited. I grew up with basements, but here in AZ they’re exceedingly rare. The first house I lived in here had a finished basement but that’s the only one I’ve seen in this town. A garage was the one requirement I had when we bought our house…but then we fell in love with the house we bought which didn’t have one. I do have 2 sheds – but they’re only really usable for storage. And until a few years ago my current shop (a 12’x12′ building) was my office and I worked from home. So all projects had to be done outside. Thankfully we have an outside kitchen with large counters and shade, a big 40’x20′ RV shade, and a big carport that stretches around two sides of the house. But it’s still not the same as a garage or actual shop.

    I drew up a wheel in openscad…wasn’t sure what the thickness should be but designed it around an 8mm thick spacer and a 608 bearing on either side:
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5JVPXZ3vDfBbGVVNC05c1ZSaXM

    But then it hit me. This probably isn’t printable. The curves are doable. But the unsupported center is an issue. Supports don’t work with TPU unless you have a dual head printer and can do them in a different material – and I don’t have a dual head printer.

    Could maybe cut it in half and print the two halves then glue them together….hmm…

    I should probably focus on work instead 😀

    #29252

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Geez, I haven’t posted in a month… Not good.

    I have been working on it. I’m ready to assemble the first chunk of table. It’s 32×60, and I plan on pretty quickly making some wings to make the cutting surface 48×32 by default.

    I cut out most of the CNC parts today, from 1/2″ ply. I have the two y cover parts left. Just from looking at the size of there parts, I can tell this thing is a beast.

    #29778

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I added some photos to the album. I built the first part of the table. The “studs” are 3″ wide, and there are five, so they are about 15″ apart. I added glue, and two screws to each stud end.

    I added the 1/8″ hardboard. It was oversized, o added glue, and then used a cheap stapler to put 18 Gage, 1″ Staples to secure the top. The Staples were a mess. The first side, I had the pressure too high, but even the second side would miss Staples, double fire, or the end would go wild and wacky. Everywhere, there was some problem with the surface. I cleaned them up by pulling some out, hammering some back down, and cutting the ones that shot through to the outside with a Dremel cutoff tool. Then I sanded the top down so it would last flat.

    I then used a router and a flush trim bit to cut off the excess.

    Once I had both sides installed, I’m pretty happy with it. It’s pretty light, and big, and pretty rigid.

    #29781

    Barry
    Participant

    That’s sweet! Next time use something like half inch staples. They’re only needed to hold the top until the glue dries anyway. That much staple into the wood was probably pushing the gun up causing your double taps. I’m already looking into making a new top. The steel stud idea works okay, but not the best. I can make do with it for now though.

    #30260

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I started the actual build, finally.

    I cleaned up the cut parts, they are looking pretty good. I didn’t want to change bits, and I wanted to cut the plywood with a 1/8″ downward spiral bit, so I couldn’t cut the 1/8″ through holes, so I just went to a depth of 2mm, and I finished the drilling with the drill press. I think it probably saved time overall anyway.

    I got as far as I could today. I am going to take the controller and motors from my MPCNC, and it’s spot in the garage. It’s days are numbered 🙁 .

    I also didn’t account for the extra thickness of my cut material. I’m using 1/2″ plywood, so the #6/32 and 5/16″ screws that go through those parts need to be longer. I have a bunch of 1″ #6/32 screws, but I need to go buy some longer of the 4″ and 5″ screws. I just realized that since I didn’t install the motors in the side assembly, I have to take them apart anyway.

    I also am not quite done with printing. My printer has needed some TLC for a few weeks, and I only got to it today. I have 1 more of the “tensioner” parts to print, and the larger lock knobs to print.

    I’ve pulled it inside, and added a few photos of it in my dingy basement. I am really liking this torsion box, it is not incredibly light, but it seems very rigid for its weight. I should probably weight it to give you a better idea.

    #30520

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I realized last night that I’m missing the GT belt. I looked at my order history, and I just didn’t buy it. oh well, I’m not planning on going full size immediately, so I’ll just “borrow” the belt from the MPCNC for now. I think that’s probably why I didn’t buy it in the first place, I wasn’t sure how much I would want in different configs.

    I cut the tubing with a quickly made miter box. Just put some glue on some 3/4″ pine blocks, with a 3″ wide base. No screws or anything. Clamped the walls down with a piece of tubing in while the glue dried. I then started a cut on the table saw, so it would be relatively straight/square. Then I used my hack saw to cut the tubes. Left some burr, but not hard to remove. Took less than a minute per cut.

    I’m down to a few steps before it starts moving:
    – Attach the tubes.
    – Create the wiring harness
    – Attach the controller somehow (I’m using my pi, not the ramps board). I’m going to start with something quick, no need to print anything for that ATM.

    I also need to make the front “ears” part, but I can get it moving before I finish that.

    I’ll try to remember to pause and take some more pics next time I’m working on it.

    #30544

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Tubes installed.

    #30549

    Barry
    Participant

    Can’t see the pic!

    #30558

    Jeffeb3
    Participant
    #31049

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I couldn’t figure out how to fill the tubes with cement, so I just installed some wires instead 🙂 . I have the wiring done. The belts arrived today (amazon lost the first set, when you have packages go missing is when you know you order too much from amazon). I mounted my raspberry pi and grbl board to the side of it. I am going to move this beast to the garage. I should have a few hours tomorrow morning when the wife takes the kid, so… I hope to be cutting tomorrow.

    I have to “install” a spoil board, attach the belts, and change the steps/mm for the z axis. Oh, and install the router, but that should be a cinch.

    @Ryan, I know the aluminum angle mounts are “alpha”, so no need to mention it again, but they make the al angle sit so low that the carriage hits the zip ties I use to hold the hose down. Any updates on those parts? I will just remove the zip ties for the time being.

    #31050

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I drilled holes in the angle and zip tied to that.

    #31052

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Ah, on the side that won’t rub on the carriage. That’s an easy fix.

    #31070

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Success! 1300, 870, 60 to 0,0,0:
    https://goo.gl/photos/L8w2XZjAug59DBaw5

    I added a spoil board, with is actually the old spoil board. I left it cantilevered off the edge, and it actually works OK. I’ll have to see if there is much sagging in z when cutting there when the wheels go over the edge there. This wasn’t how I was planning on getting the full 32″ cutting area, but it just might work. The torsion box is 32×60 and the spoil board is 48×60.

    I had some alignment issues with the z axis acme screws. I was worried they were binding too much, but after I greased them, it does it’s little sink at the end (I dropped the DC adaptor at the end, that’s that clack noise):
    https://goo.gl/photos/7MpshUkByZhoN73q7

    There are some creaking noises, but I think that’s mostly the spoil board creaking against the torsion box.

    Drilling holes for the zip ties worked great.

    I think I will have to attach my power controller to the side of the Low Rider. I really like turning the router on and off with the gcode.

    I have to say, I was a little worried when I was putting all this together. It seemed heavy, and soft of like a house of cards. But now I think it’s rather elegant. The wheels roll really smoothly. The cords are managed much better than my MPCNC.

    I’m using the controller from my MPCNC (I think it’s most likely retired, at this point, R.I.P.). I swapped the X and Z drivers (I have X as the 60″ direction) since the Z was set to only one motor current. I’m still running in parallel. If I put a little pressure on the Z axis while it’s rising, I can get it to skip. I will need to check to make sure that limit is set right, and I may have to go to serial wiring. The gantry isn’t light, so that’s definitely making those motors work a bit harder to lift.

    The 60″ axis (my x, your y) is less smooth than the other axis. I’m not sure but I think since I didn’t cut the holes oversized that they might be pinching the pipe even though the top 5/16″ screws are not tight.

    Enough sharing, if I hurry, I can cut something before I’m needed again.

    #31071

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    AWesome, Another one comes to life!

    #31075

    Barry
    Participant

    Very cool!

    #31091

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    It cut great! I was using very conservative speeds 15mm/s, 1mm depth. I have to pay closer attention to the squareness of the belts. The torsion box is square, but the spoil board isn’t. The sides of the spoil board (and the belts) are straight and parallel. I’m going to spring clamp something to the torsion box then powering on the motors if I care about square.

    I never had dust collection with the mpcnc. It’s collecting most of the chips. I think adding some bristles around the outside would be cool. I also want to make the 611 plate out of clear plastic something so I can see it cut easier.

    #31202

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Nice!

    #31479

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Ah, infinite edit! I fixed the name of this thread. It’s like removing a splinter.

    I have a paranoid thought. The couplers on the z axis allow the thread to move a bit more or less, while pulling the spring. Since it sinks to it’s resting spot, the two sides can settle with different amount of spring. Maybe those should be rigid couplers? I should check the Z height at different places to put myself at ease.

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