Jeb's Lowrider V2 Build

New Home Forum LowRider Your Builds – LowRider Jeb's Lowrider V2 Build

This topic contains 43 replies, has 14 voices, and was last updated by  Coinbird 2 weeks, 6 days ago.

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  • #76884

    Jeb
    Participant

    I started with the table to get a good base for the Lowrider V2.

    The depth of the built torsion box is 8.25 inches.

    Four full size 3/4″ sheets of MDF later, I have a sturdy (and heavy base).

    (The leg leveling kit off Amazon is awesome)

    I’m using full sheets of MDF top and bottom and using them as a reference for the torsion box and side rails.

    The side rails are (2) 3/4″ BB ply strips with channel strut bolted on.

    The side rails are slotted at the ends (to allow vertical alignment) and through bolt to brass threaded inserts into the torsion box (each side of the torsion box is double thick).

    I know I need to brace the legs (and will), but this is rock solid as is.

    Pics attached and will post when I get the rest assembled.

     

    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #76895

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    That thing is a beast. Looks great. Can’t wait to see more.

    #76910

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That is a beefy table!

    #77024

    Bill
    Participant

    Six weights and a roll of paper towels, no way is it going anywhere!

    #77025

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Six weights and a roll of paper towels, no way is it going anywhere!

    I have honestly considered buying some garage sale weights just to use as clamps. 🙂 I don’t own any for lifting.

    #77034

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I don’t own any for lifting.

    If someone just made some sort of bowflex machine that worked as a generator or something…That way it wouldn’t feel like lifting weights wasn’t just for vanity. Million dollar idea #24581.

    #77102

    Jeb
    Participant

    Hah.  Clamps are one thing I never have enough of…

    Eventually, I’d like to make a lighter table and use this a project table (hence the depth and weight).

    So one of the first things make would be to let the Lowrider cut some fair curves into a set of 2×4’s then I could properly clamp the new table.

    But the paper towels *really* saved me on this one ;).

    Got most of the gantry screwed together last night, so it should be assembled this weekend (depending on kid activities…).

    #78886

    Jeb
    Participant

    Got her up and running well.

    The main thing I’m working on is a rest/home area that will keep everything aligned.

    So far I have a C shaped bracket that bolts to the channel strut, and it has divots for the rails to rest.

    So I can set the height and square alignment once, and if things get out of whack, I just reseat and turn motors off and back on!

    Next redesign will have alignment legs to reference off my full MDF top sheet (for square), and maybe vertical adjustment for each side Z height.

    Pics below.

    7 users thanked author for this post.
    #78901

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    That is so freaking clever! I want that, and I want it now!

    #78902

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I think I’d want it shorter, and I want the pipe rests deep enough there’s no chance of it being misaligned. I would also have some starting gcode to lift the gantry up on startup. I’m getting more convinced all the time that adjustments are the devil, and I just want it bolted down in the right place from the start. But I can see how it`s easier to adjust it than the whole piece of unistrut.

    This is a big win for unistrut, IMO. Thank you for sharing.

    #78904

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I guess I could actually make one that’s just an inch tall, and screws down from the top to my spoil board. Then I’d just have to cut a hole in the spoil board under the resting position to make room for the bit.

    #78921

    Jeb
    Participant

    Shorter would be nice, but I *really* want full sheet capacity.  So I need the front cutout for work on this end.

    The ones I just cut are taller than the ones in the pic.

    The divots are 126mm apart, and I used a diameter of 26mm (25.8mm in the STL model).

    I think with a horizontal L bracket, I can reference off of the top of the unistrut, and then the edge of the MDF top.

    Perhaps we are overthinking it, and all we need is a L piece with divots, and the short leg hangs over the edge of your top.

    Dogbone that inside corner, don’t screw it down, then it can be a removable home/rest reset!  (and you can make it tall enough to not hit your tools. (I had a jig like that for my first 3d printer…)

    I’ll sketch something up tonight.

    #78950

    Jeb
    Participant

    The table only version works pretty good.  Here are my files and some pics.

    Here is a link to a DXF for 1/2″ MDF with a 1/8″ bit:

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tweZTcsyOe5hR3rGzSIgcL3ZWyUzYUgO/view?usp=sharing

    #78957

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Ryan, it will only let me thank Jeb once…

    That is awesome. Great, simple design.

    #78959

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I added one for ya!

    #78965

    Jeb
    Participant

    I need to play with it some more.  The front bar fully seats, but the back isn’t fully in.

    I think the dimension might be 125mm c/c of bars, but you get the idea.

    And it works really well.

    Now if my unistrut was referenced to the top of bed I’d be off to the races…

    This makes me want to design a nice full size torsion box that slots together tight…

    #78975

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    From the drawings on LR1 and LR2, 126mm on center looks right. Did you get the radius right? Maybe there’s some other error.

    #78981

    Mike Thorn
    Participant

    Hey Jeb great setup!! How did you attach your belts? Do you have a picture? I am also using the unistrut setup. Thanks!

    #78982

    Jeb
    Participant

    Agreed, 126mm c/c in theory, therefore 151.4 out to out.

    Caliper says 150.8mm both ends (plastic shrinkage I assume), therefore 125.4mm…

    I’m laying out centerlines in Fusion for a possible new joint up top (just in time for your rebuild…).

    And a big Thank You to Ryan for an awesome machine that can cut so good even with some slop (the GT2 timing belts are saving me).

    #78984

    Jeb
    Participant

    Hey Jeb great setup!! How did you attach your belts? Do you have a picture? I am also using the unistrut setup. Thanks!

    I’ll try and grab a pic in the AM, but I’ll describe it (all Homedepot parts).

    3/8″x2″ Bolt (parts below are from outside in to the unistrut)

    3/8″ washer (guide for zip tie)

    3/8″ Chrome spacer so zip tie doesn’t rub (in packs of 2 at Homedepot)

    3/8″ washer (other guide)

    3/8″ nut (then tighten all that down)

    To attach that to the unistrut, I used (2) 3/8″ hole square plate washers for unistrut (packs of 5 at HD).

    Then screwed into the standard 3/8″ unistrut spring nut.

    It’s very strong and you can loosen the bolt without it falling over.

    To tighten everything, I’d loosen the bolt, pull on the plate washers, then tighten back.

    You can see most of that in the 1615 and 1616 pics above.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #79194

    Lane
    Participant

    The thing that I like about the end rest is that it will allow you to move the gantry to a known location and easily change the tool bit without removing the router from it’s mount.

    Lane

    #79341

    Jeb
    Participant

    The thing that I like about the end rest is that it will allow you to move the gantry to a known location and easily change the tool bit without removing the router from it’s mount.

    Lane

    If you can change the bit without removing the router, I’d like to see how.

    As far as I can tell, it must be removed to get a wrench on it (as it doesn’t drop below the plate).

    I will get a Z probe hooked up eventually, to make tool changes easier.

    #79528

    Jeb
    Participant
    #80664

    Jeff
    Participant

    Hey Jeb great setup!! How did you attach your belts? Do you have a picture? I am also using the unistrut setup. Thanks!

    I’ll try and grab a pic in the AM, but I’ll describe it (all Homedepot parts).

    3/8″x2″ Bolt (parts below are from outside in to the unistrut)

    3/8″ washer (guide for zip tie)

    3/8″ Chrome spacer so zip tie doesn’t rub (in packs of 2 at Homedepot)

    3/8″ washer (other guide)

    3/8″ nut (then tighten all that down)

    To attach that to the unistrut, I used (2) 3/8″ hole square plate washers for unistrut (packs of 5 at HD).

    Then screwed into the standard 3/8″ unistrut spring nut.

    It’s very strong and you can loosen the bolt without it falling over.

    To tighten everything, I’d loosen the bolt, pull on the plate washers, then tighten back.

    You can see most of that in the 1615 and 1616 pics above.

    I used this in my build and it works great!!  Like you, I didn’t get my Unistrut perfectly aligned with the top of the bed.  I thought I did a good job but one side is off by about 1mm.  I’m really debating using the LR2 with a Facing Bit to face my entire 4’x8′ sub-work surface.  Doing this should get the top of the sub-work surface perfectly level with the Unistrut on each side.  Hopefully, this will let my waste board and work pieces also be level with the Unistrut in the X and Y directions which should compensate for the Z difference I have now.  But, that’s a project for another day.  lol.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    Jeb
    #80979

    Jeb
    Participant

    used this in my build and it works great!! Like you, I didn’t get my Unistrut perfectly aligned with the top of the bed. I thought I did a good job but one side is off by about 1mm. I’m really debating using the LR2 with a Facing Bit to face my entire 4’x8′ sub-work surface. Doing this should get the top of the sub-work surface perfectly level with the Unistrut on each side. Hopefully, this will let my waste board and work pieces also be level with the Unistrut in the X and Y directions which should compensate for the Z difference I have now. But, that’s a project for another day. lol.

    Glad it helped!  Adjustable is nice, but I need to figure out a good jig to align the rails to the surface (or just face the whole thing…).

    Once I get my final XZ plate posted, I think my next project will be to get the belt running inside the unistrut…

    #81066

    Jeff
    Participant

    I’ve been thinking about a jig as well.  I’m thinking that for a 4’ wide LR you could use about 3-4 pieces of 2” box steel (or some similar straight and rigid material) that are about 5’ wide so you have 6” of overhang on each side.  If you lay these on the top of the table, you could then clamp the unistrut to the bottom of them.  This should ensure that the unistrut is level with the top of the table.  Should be simple to do and I just wish I thought of it last week before I finish my table.  Lol.

    I would love to see the new XZ Plate when you finish it.  I am using your Z axis support for when the LR is turned off.  I like it!  I had a little filing to do for the slot and tab because I used a 1/4” endmill instead of the 1/8” you used.

    My next project is going to be cable management.  I’m thinking of using EMT conduit, steel cable and pulleys for this.  I hope to work on it this weekend.  I also need a better way to collect dust…

    #81068

    Jeb
    Participant

    I’ve been thinking about a jig as well. I’m thinking that for a 4’ wide LR you could use about 3-4 pieces of 2” box steel (or some similar straight and rigid material) that are about 5’ wide so you have 6” of overhang on each side. If you lay these on the top of the table, you could then clamp the unistrut to the bottom of them. This should ensure that the unistrut is level with the top of the table. Should be simple to do and I just wish I thought of it last week before I finish my table. Lol.

    I would love to see the new XZ Plate when you finish it. I am using your Z axis support for when the LR is turned off. I like it! I had a little filing to do for the slot and tab because I used a 1/4” endmill instead of the 1/8” you used.

    My next project is going to be cable management. I’m thinking of using EMT conduit, steel cable and pulleys for this. I hope to work on it this weekend. I also need a better way to collect dust…

    Sorry about the jig — I can post the straight corner one.  I then use the new Fusion360 Dogbone script to pop the right sized ones in for designs I download.

    As for cable management, the best trick I’ve found (from the Voron CoreXY 3d printer I built) is split 3/4″ sleeving:

    Amazon Link

    Then get a cheap tape measure (I like the 25′ fat tape ones), and cut what you need off it (also tape it so it can’t roll back up…).

    Then put the sleeve around the cut piece of tape measure, run your cables in, and zip tie closed.  The tape gives it rigidity when it hangs out and bends very easily (mine lays in the aluminum angle perfectly, and the tape measure end is easily taped to the dewalt cord).

    Hope that helps you out.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #81366

    Ailton Lopes
    Participant

    Great idea! I liked!!

    #84380

    Chuck Fischer
    Participant

    Jeb, I am designing a lowrider of my own, I have gotten a lot of inspiration from your build. I was wondering, how far out does the unistrut overhang the ends? Right now I have a 4×4 cutting area, is 6 feet of unistrut on each side enough? Also, the C brackets you designed to keep the height and squareness of the cut head, what are the dimensions of those? How are they working for you? Any advice for a first time builder?

    #84497

    Jeb
    Participant

    Jeb, I am designing a lowrider of my own, I have gotten a lot of inspiration from your build. I was wondering, how far out does the unistrut overhang the ends? Right now I have a 4×4 cutting area, is 6 feet of unistrut on each side enough? Also, the C brackets you designed to keep the height and squareness of the cut head, what are the dimensions of those? How are they working for you? Any advice for a first time builder?

    The unistrut at Homedepot is 10′ long, and I didn’t want to cut it, so I’m overhanging one foot on each side (and it’s plenty of room to mess).

    I’ve gotten away from the brackets, and am using a jig like here:

    https://www.v1engineering.com/forum/topic/jebs-lowrider-v2-build/#post-78950

    That is enough to get started, but I wanted a reference that doesn’t get cut when I surface the spoilboard, I have one that references off what my rails attach to and then the sides of my spoilboard.

    Basically start with the file linked above, then you will have to decide what you can reference from on your machine (and make that).  That file above will reference off the piece you are going to cut, or reference off the square spoilboard, then startup, move gantry, and screw down your workpiece.

    Also, by default the motors cut power after a time.  I have a startup script that disables motor cutoff and lifts off the jig (then everything stays square).  Basically you need:
    M84 S0

    That’s M84 S{zero}

    I’ll try and post my script later (machine is cutting, so I can’t pull the card).

    For a 4’x4′, you’d probably be fine with the above file.  But it is awesome.  It has kept square.  Again the only problem until you customize is if you cut the workpiece all up, then need to ref again…

    Adding something for duplicate detection…

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