It has been a year, beyond the 525…

New Home Forum Updates It has been a year, beyond the 525…

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Viewing 30 posts - 91 through 120 (of 126 total)
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  • #34093
    Steve
    Participant

    I down load the firmware again, Z is still 2267.72 the seconded bock of code is what I edited, and was looking for conformation that I put the edit in the right place.

    By the way thanks for the screws for the LeadScrew nut. Service above and beyond!

    #34094
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    You are downloading the ramps T8 version?

    #34095
    Steve
    Participant

    Rambo
    My Bad, should have said that upfront..

    #34097
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    You can just use the firmware from the lowrider page, it is pre configured.

    I am not able to upload the Rambo updates today.

    #34098
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    shoot never mind that is ramps as well.

    Give me some time to get back to a computer and make some edits for you and upload them.

    #34100
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    If you bought it from me, chances are really high it already has the new firmware on it, I think I only shipped out two with the RC8. Are you sure you even need to flash it?

    #34108
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    All Firmware versions are up now (I think).

    #34110
    Steve
    Participant

    No, I’m not sure, but my parts kit came with the threaded rod and the Rambo. So it may be one of the two.
    There’s no rush on the firmware. I was just going through the the check list in my build notebook, and got to check firmware rev.
    I’ll probably be putting power to it in the next week or two as I only get Sunday’s work on it.

    #34111
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    It’s already done.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #34267
    Dui, ni shuo de dui
    Participant

    What would be an awesome improvement would be to have a tool changing system.
    Or at least some no brainer device who could help changing manually the bit while keeping perfectly accurate positionning.

    An other awesome thing would be to have motor feedback positioning, so the CNC wouldn’t lose step in any condition.

    Dont’ know if any of those are realistic, seems to be quite a big challenge… But I really hope this could be achieved!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #34271
    Barry
    Participant

    What would be an awesome improvement would be to have a tool changing system.
    Or at least some no brainer device who could help changing manually the bit while keeping perfectly accurate positionning.

    An other awesome thing would be to have motor feedback positioning, so the CNC wouldn’t lose step in any condition.

    Dont’ know if any of those are realistic, seems to be quite a big challenge… But I really hope this could be achieved!

    Steppers with encoders are expensive! Then you’d need a board that supports them, which the ramps or rambo don’t.

    #34438
    christian ritchie
    Participant

    -More clearly defined dimensions, and why.

    I think, since you are seeing more people asking about size, you might be better off having a “small/medium/large” guide, to help people make each size the best it can be with what we all know so far.

    For my ~9″ Z, I’m hoping to make it stiffer by embedding the bottom of each leg into the torsion box as far as practical (maybe 4-6″ deep?). Then, the box will help gusset the tubes with far more leverage than a printed part screwed to the surface.

    #34448
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I have this page 3rd link on the assembly page

    Machine Size


    You think I should be giving more general x and Y dimensions as well? Any feedback is great. The hard part is if you are carving surfboard blanks you can make the machine giant, that is one of the first request I had ever gotten before the machine was even finished. Or carving stone you would want it small. I would love to give dimensions but I would rather figure out how to express what/why you should make it a certain size, more than what size to make it. If I say 10″ most would assume that is the max, but if you make it 10″x 6″ no problem, or even 36×6, but 36×36 is gonna be pushing it. carving, or cutting, plasma, or laser, there is so many options I really don’t want to impose any limits.

    9″ is extreme, sinking the legs is going to make it difficult to square.

    #34449
    christian ritchie
    Participant

    XY steppers, having them on the corner means more parts, longer belts, bigger footprint. The speeds at which we cut I feel effect would not be noticeable. So I made assembly easier and the machine cheaper having them on the rails/rollers.

    Ryan, that makes sense to some extent, but if you already have corners, couldn’t they include the mounting for the motors and/or idler pulleys? I see only a longer belt issue, and the unsprung weight can’t hurt.

    Z stepper on the gantry would be awesome but it means the leadscrew would need to stick up. I chose the current setup to keep the screw covered from dirt and debris in the little tunnel and the footprint at a minimum. I am always looking to change this. I have tried a belt driven Z, but would like a higher gear ratio because I don’t like working with springs (they are expensive and would limit the expandability of the machine and raise the price).

    I was thinking of this kind of springs:
    http://a.co/5k1EoQx

    With those, you could choose the weight rating per your z-axis weight and take the load off the steppers, and the belt tension could be kept uniform.

    Maybe it’s time for a “Pro” version?

    Sounds like a plan!
    Really, the leadscrew version sounds like your first step toward pro.

    #34451
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Parts count is a big thing for me. I do my best to keep minimal parts and all hardware size variations to a minimum. Adding parts, means adding cost, adding packaging time (more cost), ordering time (more cost), inventory on hand (more space), shipping weight/volume (bigger box means more cost), build time (user experience), and chances to screw up (user experience). I would love to have a machine that performs better than the rest for half the price, and takes half the time to assemble.

    Those springs you linked are $10 each and would need extra parts to mount them and a larger gantry to do so. Having a carefully calibrated spring is essential, if it lifts too much you will add backlash, I like to this we are preload by gravity, trying to keep things accurate as possible. The Z axis is by far the most powerful adding parts isn’t necessary.

    I have been doing my best to remove parts and simplify in anyway possible.

    The biggest hurdle at this point is CAM education. The machine side of things has been working very smoothly for the last 8 months or so. 90% of all issues now are CAM related. For 6 full months everyone was trying to move/cut at faster than 3D printing speeds. I think we have that under control, then was Z axis speeds, hardly hear about this now, and just in case we have moved to leadscrews. This is a huge learning experience for everyone. I am trying to tackle the largest issues first. For me that is currently “desktop CNC” software training.

    A “pro version” I think would be beyond the point of diminishing returns but I do understand there are people that would be willing to pay for a marginally better machine. Instead of focusing on yet another build I would prefer to improve the machine for everyone. Haven;t decided which way to go, maybe new parts but a “premium” hardware package?

    At the same time I have a new type of machine I would like to spend some more time on to help diversify the company, and keep this new micro-manufacturing trend happening.

    #34452
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    At the same time I have a new type of machine I would like to spend some more time on to help diversify the company, and keep this new micro-manufacturing trend happening.

    Man, I just got out of the dog house for building the low rider…

    But who am I kidding, it will be with it for the mostly printed all wheel drive lawn mower.

    #34453
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Well no router attached to this one…

    #34454
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Of course, I hit “Submit” and I immediately think of the Mostly Printed Fidget Spinner Spinner”

    #34457
    Barry
    Participant

    @Christian
    There’s a problem with those springs as well. They have a life span. Once they get to so many “springs” they start to wear out, and not pull as much. The one listed is 4000 extends and retracts. I’ve easily done twice that amount on one routing job. Like Ryan said too, you have to get one that is balanced with what you’re trying to lift as well. They’re also kind of a bitch to work with.

    Man, I just got out of the dog house for building the low rider…

    But who am I kidding, it will be with it for the mostly printed all wheel drive lawn mower.

    Screw that. Mostly printed robot lawn mower!

    #34472
    Dui, ni shuo de dui
    Participant

    Z stepper on the gantry would be awesome but it means the leadscrew would need to stick up. I chose the current setup to keep the screw covered from dirt and debris in the little tunnel and the footprint at a minimum. I am always looking to change this. I have tried a belt driven Z, but would like a higher gear ratio because I don’t like working with springs (they are expensive and would limit the expandability of the machine and raise the price).

    Not necessarly the only solution here.
    You can simply use a different kind of steppers, like these ones on which the rod is going through the motor (linear stepper motors). This way you can put the stepper in the middle of the gantry:

    57mm-Dual-Shaft-CNC-The-font-b-Linear-b-font-font-b-Stepper-b-font-font-1

    #34476
    Dui, ni shuo de dui
    Participant
    What would be an awesome improvement would be to have a tool changing system.
    Or at least some no brainer device who could help changing manually the bit while keeping perfectly accurate positionning.

    An other awesome thing would be to have motor feedback positioning, so the CNC wouldn’t lose step in any condition.

    Dont’ know if any of those are realistic, seems to be quite a big challenge… But I really hope this could be achieved!

    <span class=”et_quote_sign”></span>

    Steppers with encoders are expensive! Then you’d need a board that supports them, which the ramps or rambo don’t.

    I was thinking more of a DIY stepper encoder here. Just a basic optical wheel encoder (similar to what the old ball computer mouse had). No need for crazy precision here, the goal is only to detect missed physical steps (aroung 6 Degree precision should be enough).
    As for the board that support them, I’m wondering about which ones can for a while now. I was also wondering if Marlin can support encoders feedback, and how. If anyone knows, I’d really like to get the answer!

    #34478
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I could swear I saw a post in these forums from someone doing closed feedback on the motors with an MPCNC. It had to be over a year ago though. They made their own software motion control though.

    #34485
    John
    Participant

    Hmm… milled printed filament maker? Mostly printed injection mold system? Ooohhhhh… a mostly printed metal forge. I’ve been wanting to forge a knife blade..

    #34488
    Barry
    Participant

    Hmm… milled printed filament maker? Mostly printed injection mold system? Ooohhhhh… a mostly printed metal forge. I’ve been wanting to forge a knife blade..

    #34491
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Screw that. Mostly printed robot lawn mower!

    As much as I miss watering a lawn I have always dreamed of a robot watering device. I bought one of those that drives on the hose. That was kind of cool but something that sprays low volume more down and out that up and everywhere. Added to the list of cool things I want to build, solar and water pressure powered high efficiency sprinkler.

    Barry for the sexy forge win! Except that thing is way to clean, get it dirty!

    John, I don’t think I want to make a filament machine, but injection molding could be cool. I am very intimidated by the machines though. I spent many months designing plastic parts for molding and they have some serious design parameters. I went to the molders shop a few times and even his “small” machines were crazy big and the molds are insanely complex. He had a EDM machine that is a piece of amazing tech right there.

    Heffe- https://youtu.be/uphXy3URQ6g There is another build as well I think this was the second one. I think we finally found a solid reason to make a “Pro” version! I just emailed him to get a follow up.

    Dui- I forgot about those, good idea. I think we are getting somewhere with a pro version.

    #34493
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I already have a sprinkler system. It requires a lot of maintenance, but compared to a robot, I think it does a good job. I don’t like mowing though, and my son is a good half decade, at least, from being able to do it for me. Maybe I could just use a CO2 laser and some mirrors. I’d have to run it at 2am to reduce the chance of anyone seeing it or stepping on the lawn. Might also fix the skunk problems we had.

    That was the video I remembered. I was kind of like, “meh, I have to watch this because I went to school for it” and then he turned up the speed. With that much strength, we’ll probably have to fill the tubes with something. 🙂

    Seeing that again, I wonder if you can still use Marlin, but replace the 8825s with something that can do closed loop, similar to an esc on a quadrotor.

    #34507
    Barry
    Participant
    Screw that. Mostly printed robot lawn mower!

    <span class=”et_quote_sign”></span>

    As much as I miss watering a lawn I have always dreamed of a robot watering device. I bought one of those that drives on the hose. That was kind of cool but something that sprays low volume more down and out that up and everywhere. Added to the list of cool things I want to build, solar and water pressure powered high efficiency sprinkler.

    Barry for the sexy forge win! Except that thing is way to clean, get it dirty!

    John, I don’t think I want to make a filament machine, but injection molding could be cool. I am very intimidated by the machines though. I spent many months designing plastic parts for molding and they have some serious design parameters. I went to the molders shop a few times and even his “small” machines were crazy big and the molds are insanely complex. He had a EDM machine that is a piece of amazing tech right there.

    Heffe- https://youtu.be/uphXy3URQ6g There is another build as well I think this was the second one. I think we finally found a solid reason to make a “Pro” version! I just emailed him to get a follow up.

    Dui- I forgot about those, good idea. I think we are getting somewhere with a pro version.

    That picture was taken when I first built it.

    #34564
    Mbef
    Participant

    We’ve just changed over to the T8 leadscrew – looking good so far. I’ve updated our (somewhat hacked) Marlin 1.1.0-RC8 config to 788 DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT for Z-axis, as per your new 1.1.0 code.

    And I’m trying to work out – where did the number 788 come from, please? Sticking 200 steps/rev, pitch = 2mm (but 4 starts on screw so effective pitch is 8mm/rev) and 1/32 ustep into the RepRap calculator gives me 800 steps/mm, not 788 …. am I missing something?

    Cheers!

    #34567
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I suggest you physically measure with calipers. 800 is what it should be. That is why I made that statement.
    All my ramps so far measure perfectly with 788. The rambo though works as it should. Not sure why maybe the high microstepping? But when I do test moves or the tall printer parts for the kit 788 makes them as perfect to cad as I can get with the ramps.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #37233
    Nicolas Coffey
    Participant

    I’m building the z-axis with the new leadscrew and I cannot get the leadscrew through the bearing in the Z-lower bracket. Even went to the extreme of hammering it in and even that did not work. Any suggestions on this? Has anyone else had difficulty with this step?

    Going to order a new leadscrew and bearing if needed, but wanted to check here first.

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