Tagged: T8 math
April 14, 2017 at 9:58 am #31425April 14, 2017 at 10:11 am #31428
Okay, other things added with the paid update.
Thanks button and tracking.
Bill’s last forum request I couldn’t do before, user tracking, So I think it will know show when a thread has unread replies by you.
I have the ability for signatures now, can I get a vote on this one, good or bad, yay or nay.
Easier reply quoting, I guess I will give up on nested replies, although I like them better.
Post flagging, for those spamming punks…
Anything else you want, It might be available now?
Thanks for the patience.April 14, 2017 at 11:46 am #31442
If I edit the post, it shows it’s http in the img src:
img src="http://cadcdn.wallings.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/0401171430_HDR-e1491147193390-768x1365.jpg" alt="Pipes"
but when I click save and the page loads, the src code on the page is forcing https for some reason.April 14, 2017 at 2:58 pm #31443
How would you get pissed enough to delete all your posts? That is someone with too much time on their hands. I promise if I get pissed at you guys, I’ll just post one FU and be done with it.
I like these new changes. Since it’s basically coming out of your pocket, I hope it’s going to pay off.
My nit pick, the portrait editing on my phone is always one column short. See attached pic, and don’t judge my notifications. Friday is a busy day for YouTube.
Interesting. I can attach the image, then get the link, and then embed it. If this works. More server space for you, Ryan.
Attachments:April 14, 2017 at 3:03 pm #31447
Yeah the phone thing kills me, it’s next after the overlap.
we had a guy early on delete everything and all his thingiverse parts as well. Then of course there are people that will edit their posts way after the fact and then the thread doesn’t make sense. I understand the first post edit but the only way to do that is to allow all editing, at least as far as I can tell.
I could also move people up to “author” that want there own pages/posts instead of a forum thread and that is much easier to maintain for everyone. I have offered it to a few and they didn’t want to so I left it alone.April 14, 2017 at 3:06 pm #31450
(((was it cAm3r0)))? 🙂April 14, 2017 at 3:06 pm #31451
He was the most known one.April 14, 2017 at 3:26 pm #31453
I missed all that. I could tell something was there though. You seemed to respect his design a lot though. Anyway, enough about that.
If you see the setting, can you let .Gcode files be attached? They are less dangerous and more convenient than .Zip files.April 14, 2017 at 3:29 pm #31457
I tried I can allow other mime types but I have been packing orders all day and not been able to look into it further. .gcode and .nc should be safe I would guess but I need to look into it.April 14, 2017 at 5:59 pm #31458
Packing orders comes first… well… packing MY order anyway… 🙂April 17, 2017 at 8:47 pm #31656
Well since you guys were being no fun and I got stuck doing website stuff….I didn’t ask about this update. Legs are fine I will link some good supports from thingiverse for the people going tall with their builds.
My reasoning, please don’t hold back if I am wrong. I was very against this update since the inception of this cnc…
-Now that we know the high rpms required to turn the 5/16″ rod at normal operation speeds was causing low stepper torque, this should increase Z axis power. I can testify that it does. Contrary to what I have written in the FAQ’s about this, there is much less mechanical advantage but lower stepper RPM’s and lower friction easily make up for this. I learned this on the LowRider CNC as the 5/16″ would not work.
-That brass nut is going to wear quickly. So I positioned it in a place that is extremely easy to replace. 1 consumable that is very inexpensive and easy to replace, I’m sure most would agree this is worth it.
-I don’t feel the anti backlash T8 nuts or the split nuts are much better so I did not feel it was worth re-designing the whole center assembly to fit them. I might be able to modify the spacer/nut lock piece to fit them if it becomes an issue with anyone. These start with less backlash than the coupling nuts, but I am sure this will change in a short amount of use…to be determined.
-No more printed couplers. Cheaper printed parts kit, less parts required. Still able to use the 5/16″ if you want. By placing the T8 touching the stepper shaft you have no positive z axis movement, and the lower bearing mount up against the coupler no negative z movement, but still get some flex if needed. The down side is the z movements will be much more coarse when the stepper is energized so 3D printing the first layer will be more difficult without an endstop.
-Had to add 2-4 longer M3 screws, but a few less 6/32″ screws and nuts.
-Faster Z moves possible, making 3D cuts much much faster to do.
-I do not think I will need to change the kit price (maybe)…higher material cost but much lower labor cost. I had to chuck up and test every single 5/16″ rod for straightness and coupler fit (tons of bad ones), lube them (not cheap took forever), then bag them. Pretty sure I will not miss these rods. At a previous job we swapped out I think 2000 printers worth of 5/16 rods and couplers, and hand tested another 1000 in China. I have done my fair share of dealing with them.
-No change in Z axis travel distance.
Questions, comments, concerns?
Attachments:April 17, 2017 at 11:27 pm #31666
Dui, ni shuo de duiParticipant
Well, I use this very same setup for a while now and I confirm you that it works great.
Putting the brass nut there is a good idea, It is indeed difficult to access and to replace in case of wear.
On mine, I’ve used two of them to limit the backlash, the space between both of them is critical to get right, which makes them a bit hard to align, but it can be finely adjusted by tightening more or less the main screw of the central carriage.
The only difference I see between your setup and mine is the thread per mm factor. On mine, one turn = 8 mm. On yours it seems to be something around 1mm per turn. If you want more speed, you may consider to change to a higher pitch. I had a pretty heavy Z axis with a heavy router and it doesn’t cause me any problem, there is plenty of power to lift the thing, so maybe you should give it a try.April 18, 2017 at 3:38 am #31667
Is the website done already? 😀
Where did the pineapple go?
That looks really sharp. And clean. Needs some saw dust.
Any thoughts on the number of hours of movement before it needs replacing? 10? 100? 1000?April 18, 2017 at 8:15 am #31686
Dui, ni shuo de dui – 8mm/4 start so 2mm per turn If my early morning brain is working. The spring loaded nut and the split nut would solve your problem with the two nuts, the spring keeps constant tension no matter the wear level of the nuts.
Jeffeb3- The website is never done ?. That last little change made all the new registered users not be able to post in the forums, I had to go through them one at a time and change their user roles… still waiting on ticket number one before I submit the phone issue. Although I might be able to figure out what border or margin is causing it. They are all too wide on a phone and need to be made smaller.
I am going to run this one as a printer so it is a lighter tool but I can run it continuously. That might be able to give me some sort of idea if the brass wears out really fast. If it wears out printing in a few days it is not worth it, I will have to try the delrin blocks.April 18, 2017 at 8:20 am #31688
Jeffeb3- This made me think of your LowRider coupler concern. If you mount the coupler slightly pretensioned with the two shafts touching you should have a true zero for your z axis, and the only spring you should get is if you plunge too quickly the couplers will stretch a bit ( have had this happen). we still might need to add the second bearing to stop that like it is with the MPCNC.April 18, 2017 at 8:55 am #31701
Jeffeb3- This made me think of your LowRider coupler concern. If you mount the coupler slightly pretensioned with the two shafts touching you should have a true zero for your z axis, and the only spring you should get is if you plunge too quickly the couplers will stretch a bit ( have had this happen). we still might need to add the second bearing to stop that like it is with the MPCNC.
Interesting. Maybe I should lift/drop them a few times and see if I can measure how much stretch there is between the two of them.April 18, 2017 at 10:33 am #31710
If the shafts are touching there should be no movement, unless when being pulled down into a load too fast. If they aren’t touching they need to be or you are sitting on a spring and any change in load will result in a vertical change.April 18, 2017 at 1:26 pm #31735
I’m a little concerned with the screws holding that brass nut in place. Are they threaded into the plastic or do they have nuts below? If the former how many remove/replace cycles do you think before the plastic is stripped? If the later how easy will it be to drop a nut while replacing? I like the concept, it should pretty much solve any sticking Z moves…April 18, 2017 at 1:32 pm #31736
Just threaded into the plastic. The majority of the force is pushing the nut into the plastic, so those are pretty much just keeping it from spinning. I’m not sure how many cycles the plastic threads can handle but you could easily get away with just two screws until they go bad then use the other two. I honestly think 1 would also work. The first part only had 2 screw holes but I put all four in for this reason.
Everything has its tradeoffs. At this time the only issues I am getting are z axis stuff…and people buying the 1″ plastic kits thinking it fits 1″ conduit….So I am trying to lighten my load. Of course there are still the complete newcomers to the scene but there issues are very all over the place and that is just my lack of writing/instructional skills showing through.April 18, 2017 at 1:37 pm #31737
Here’s how you write good instructions.
1) … Umm… How do I explain it…April 18, 2017 at 1:38 pm #31738
It’s pretty… but not Fisher-Price(tm) enough.April 18, 2017 at 1:41 pm #31739
Here’s how you write good instructions.
1) … Umm… How do I explain it…
That’s how I talk…I feel sorry for anyone that listens to me for too long.
It’s pretty… but not Fisher-Price(tm) enough.
Gunna have to change the color scheme. I do actually need a new color for the lowRider parts, that is the only reason I have not put any printed lowRider parts for sale, can’t pick a color.April 18, 2017 at 1:53 pm #31740
do you sell enough mp3dp stuff to warrant a pre-populated hardware kit for it?April 18, 2017 at 2:03 pm #31742
I just sold two today, well parts for printers. I think I would sell a lot more if I did, but I am not super stoked to do that. I truly feel the Prusa I3 is an amazing printer and that is the one people should buy, if they want a kit. This is very clearly my knock off of it and I don;t want to be that guy. That one was more of a printer for me, I needed some after the cheapies broke down after a few weeks. Then it was kinda cool so I put the parts on the site. I still don’t even have any instructions. I love my printer but I am not happy with it over all it is more of an alpha and I would want to revise some things.
If I finish one of the other ones I am working on I might sell a kit for them.
The price points are hard as well, you can not beat the price of a china kit at all. If they would just put the right stuff in the box they would destroy the market but they insist on putting the absolute cheapest leftover crap in those kits. I bought two different ones and man everything went bad. Lcd’s, whatever weird boards they had, steppers, hot ends, bearings, screws, literally everything.April 18, 2017 at 2:29 pm #31743
I spend a fair amount of time around engineers who think it’s significantly more “cool” to scratch build a printer vs. assemble a kit. (imagine a mid 40’s balding engineer looking down his nose, over his glasses, voice dripping with distain when you say “assemble a kit?”…)
but, a general hardware “parts” kit would be useful for them.April 18, 2017 at 2:54 pm #31744
You right, that is actually a great idea. I use the most common stuff in the MP3DP so a kit would work for most any printer. Don’t bother with screws and nuts and it could be a good item in the shop.April 18, 2017 at 4:24 pm #31745
Dui, ni shuo de duiParticipant
Just threaded into the plastic. The majority of the force is pushing the nut into the plastic, so those are pretty much just keeping it from spinning. I’m not sure how many cycles the plastic threads can handle but you could easily get away with just two screws until they go bad then use the other two. I honestly think 1 would also work.
Even zero might work.
I don’t have any screw to hold these nuts. They stay in place just fine. But they are sandwiched into the gantry though.April 18, 2017 at 5:28 pm #31751
Gunna have to change the color scheme. I do actually need a new color for the lowRider parts, that is the only reason I have not put any printed lowRider parts for sale, can’t pick a color.
1 vote for hot pink. It will instantly become obvious that it’s a kit from vicious1.April 18, 2017 at 5:32 pm #31752
We have a thanks button now but after that one I am pretty sure we need a thumbs down button….pink hmmmmm.April 19, 2017 at 6:42 am #31770
Okay, so I woke up this morning to find some of the most perfect prints I have ever seen come off of an MPCNC. These have come off of the blue/black printer from above, stainless 25.4mm rails, footprint of 23×23, working z height of 6 3/8″ (my tallest one), the prototype T8 as shown above. The print is PLA, at I believe 32mm/s.
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