Image2Gcode – Free Raster Image Laser Engraving Software – Modified for MPCNC

New Home Forum Software / Firmware Development Image2Gcode – Free Raster Image Laser Engraving Software – Modified for MPCNC

This topic contains 338 replies, has 58 voices, and was last updated by  Aaryn 3 months, 1 week ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 301 through 330 (of 339 total)
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  • #61700

    John
    Participant

    Ciao a tutti sono nuovo stavo cercando informazioni e aiuti vorrei arrivare ad avere una risoluzione in scala di grigi superiore a 8 bit posseggo una macchina aitocostruita con laser da 2.5w ramps 1.4 mega2560 display, ho letto che qualcuno è riuscito tra 10 15 e 16 bit di pwm, vorrei poter impostare anche io il pwm su timer a 16 bit ma non so come fare ho provato ma risultati zero, se qualcuno può spiegare o avete un firmware già pronto vi ringrazio tantissimo

    You are a very inconsiderate poster.  #1 posting a non English language post on an English language forum and #2 not even using Google translate then posting that. Pffft.

    #61701

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    No big deal.

     

    Leo69 made a video on that, increasing greyscale resolution. Gunna have to search youtube but it should pop up under his username.

    #61702

    Fabio
    Participant

    I apologize for not even translated with google translate, it will not happen anymore I did not want to disrespect anyone, if I did so humbly apologize and thank you for your help

    #61703

    John
    Participant

    I apologize for not even translated with google translate, it will not happen anymore I did not want to disrespect anyone, if I did so humbly apologize and thank you for your help

    Fair enough and thank you.

    #61704

    Fabio
    Participant

    I tried to look for the video but I did not find anything that has to do with the increase of pwm over 8 bits

    #61718

    Ryan
    Keymaster

     

    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #61731

    TedG
    Participant

    For what it is worth, I played with Image2Gcode for quite awhile and never was able to get a good result. (probably operator error, but….) So I went looking for another option.

    Found a product called LightBurn. This software has the image editor, Gcode creator and Machine control all in the same package. It has a MPCNC-Marlin interface built in and seems to work well! it is a paid package (about $40 US) but it offers a full feature 30 day free trial download to test it out. They have it in a 32 bit and 64 bit windows version, a Mac version and a Linux version. You may want to give it a try if you are still having issues with Image2Gcode. It is working well for me! a Google search will get you to their website.

    -Ted

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #61741

    John
    Participant

    For what it is worth, I played with Image2Gcode for quite awhile and never was able to get a good result. (probably operator error, but….) So I went looking for another option.

    Found a product called LightBurn. This software has the image editor, Gcode creator and Machine control all in the same package. It has a MPCNC-Marlin interface built in and seems to work well! it is a paid package (about $40 US) but it offers a full feature 30 day free trial download to test it out. They have it in a 32 bit and 64 bit windows version, a Mac version and a Linux version. You may want to give it a try if you are still having issues with Image2Gcode. It is working well for me! a Google search will get you to their website.

    -Ted

    It is a nice program that I was a member in its beta program.  I use it for my Ruida based program but I did get him to add the Marlin (3d printer) based code and it worked very nicely.  You can save the gcode too.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #61763

    Fabio
    Participant

    Thank you very much for finding me the video, I looked at it but it does not explain how to modify it but just how it works once it is modified, I would like to understand how and where to change the firmware to have at least 12 bits in pwm, or alternatively where you can download the firmware of the video you have posted to me? Thanks in advance

    #61766

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    He never got it fully working, have a look at his comments. No one else has needed more than 255 shades of burnt. I am afraid you will need to poke around a bit.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #61768

    Fabio
    Participant

    Thanks I will try and let you know

    #61941

    Easton
    Participant

    Hey you Lightburn users (TedG and John), are you guys using a RAMPS board? Lightburn has been fantastic for me, except when I go to engrave grayscale images for whatever reason it doesn’t engrave at the same speed (see https://imgur.com/a/Xo00OXB). This results in some funky lines (see picture). I posted about it on the Lightburn page and they seem to think it’s due to having an 8bit board.

    Do you guys have any ideas on what’s going on?

    (PS sorry for hijacking the thread a bit, let me know if I need to go elsewhere)

    #61962

    TedG
    Participant

    Hi Easton;

    I am running a Mini RAMBO board and have the TTL line routed through the Z max plug. Have not worked with a RAMPS board at all. I am running a 5.5 Watt  LED laser modual.

    Greyscale seams to take a lot of trial and error to dial in. Your results will vary, but here are a few photos to show what I have been learning.

    20180620_131238

    This was done at a speed of 50 MM/Sec, Max power of 65%, Min power at 40% DPI at 600,Came out considerably darker then I wanted it,

    I then adjusted to Max power of 45% min of 25%, still at 600 DPI and 50 MM/Sec and got this:

    20180620_131244

    This is lighter then I wanted, especially at the numbers on the sides.

    So, my next adjustment went to max at 45%, Min at 30% same settings else ware, and got this:

    20180620_131303
    Close, but I didn’t like the lines above the Badger So I did one more and bumped the Min up to 28% and got this:

    20180620_131251
    Closer yet. Still not fully right but I am getting an idea what the settings do. I would recommend you do likewise and burn the same photo multiple times while tweaking the settings and try to dial in the perfect fit for your laser. Also, I got funky lines early on when my DPI was too low. Lightburn seems to default to about 250 DPI, but I find a much cleaner photo at about 600 DPI.

    Hope this helps! Let me know how it works for you. Looking forward to seeing pics!

    Ted

    #61969

    TedG
    Participant

    Ryan, If this thread creates interest and is a problem for you, perhaps we could move the LightBurn conversation to it’s own tread or just rename this one to deal with Laser software in general? Whatever works for you! It makes no difference to me!

    Thanks!

    Ted

    #69726

    Six
    Participant

    Anyone have Image2GCode working with Mach3? I have a DAC-PWM conversion board on its way. I don’t know yet which axis I will be using to control the laser power yet.

    #70357

    JeffH
    Participant

    Hi TedG. I am trying to get Lightburn running with my MPCNC Rambo 1.4 and Marlin. Are you communicating directly with your MiniRambo using Lightburn, or are you using it as a GCode generator and running that from Repetier or SD card. In my case, after issuing a command from Lightburn, it just waits for a response and nothing happens. Even using the command line in Lightburn doesn’t generate any results… It is a very appealing program if it could be used directly like Estlcam with an Arduino Uno/CNC Shield.

    #70360

    John
    Participant

    Hi TedG. I am trying to get Lightburn running with my MPCNC Rambo 1.4 and Marlin. Are you communicating directly with your MiniRambo using Lightburn, or are you using it as a GCode generator and running that from Repetier or SD card. In my case, after issuing a command from Lightburn, it just waits for a response and nothing happens. Even using the command line in Lightburn doesn’t generate any results… It is a very appealing program if it could be used directly like Estlcam with an Arduino Uno/CNC Shield.

    With a Ramps 1.4 and Marlin it works wonderfully so.  All he is doing in Marlin is using M106 Sxxx for the laser intensity so if Rambo can read that then it should work as Marlin gcode is Marlin gcode.

    If you are having issues he has a nice Facebook group that will get you up and running in no time or find out there is some bug they will fix – https://www.facebook.com/groups/1190357787764055/

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #70373

    JeffH
    Participant

    Thanks TedG. I eventually figured out my problem with more poking around.

    So in answer to my question – Yes, the MPCNC running on a Rambo 1.4 board can be controlled directly with Lightburn. Ryan has already detailed which pin to use for the Rambo 1.4 for 5V TTL laser control elsewhere in his Information section. Uses M3 and M5.

    You mentioned above somewhere above to specify the COM port instead of letting the software do it on Auto. That didn’t work for me.

    I discovered I had a Baudrate mismatch. Once the Rambo and Lightburn were talking at the same speed – 2500000 – Lightburn started getting the expected responses from the firmware and will run the machine with the console buttons.

    Now for a little Burning. heh, heh

    #70415

    TedG
    Participant

    Perfect! glad you got it figured out. Keep us posted on how it works for you. There are some informative videos online on using lightburn, I am still finding new features! Hope it works well for you

    Ted

    #78280

    Victor
    Participant

    Hi guys! Does anyone tried this ImageToGcode Converter ? I wrote it to use with Marlin or Repetier firmware. The Gcode is clean and without useless moves. And due to adjusting travel speed it works a little bit faster. Check it out!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #78306

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Hi guys! Does anyone tried this ImageToGcode Converter ? I wrote it to use with Marlin or Repetier firmware. The Gcode is clean and without useless moves. And due to adjusting travel speed it works a little bit faster. Check it out!

    That software is great. And it works in wine. Hooray!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #78317

    Guffy
    Participant

    Hi guys! Does anyone tried this ImageToGcode Converter ? I wrote it to use with Marlin or Repetier firmware. The Gcode is clean and without useless moves. And due to adjusting travel speed it works a little bit faster. Check it out!

    ; Generated by ImageToGcode 0.9.9 (12/06/2018 19:27:27)
    G21 ; Set units to metric
    G90 ; Absolute coordinates
    G28 ; Home <<– DO not do this

    ; Custom start Gcode:

    ; General Gcode:

    #78324

    Victor
    Participant

    Thanks Guffy! Fixed!

    In my previous versions I do not included this line by default. But you are right. If anyone needs it, he can put it in start GCode textbox.

    #83409

    Valentin
    Participant

    Thanks Victor. I’ll give your program a try soon.

    But for the program whitch is main topic in here: isn’t it confusing, that there are so many versions and you never really know whitch is working and whitch you have? Can anyone make this topic a bit clear? I dunno what version to download and where…

    I once had a decent working version, but am working on a new computer now. So I’m pretty much lost in space

    #91973

    Silvio Franco
    Participant

    Hi, @victor. After your tips this is my first print with gcode generate with your program. As a first one seems not too bad. Please how can I fix or avoid the erratic print as shown in the picture? Thanks for helping.

     

    #91982

    Aaryn
    Participant

    Hi, @victor. After your tips this is my first print with gcode generate with your program. As a first one seems not too bad. Please how can I fix or avoid the erratic print as shown in the picture? Thanks for helping.

    We have discovered that is actually a bug in the firmware.  You will need to re-flash with a bug fix.  What board and firmware are you running?

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #91990

    Victor
    Participant

    Hi, @victor. After your tips this is my first print with gcode generate with your program. As a first one seems not too bad. Please how can I fix or avoid the erratic print as shown in the picture? Thanks for helping.

    Hi, José!

    Have you adjusted the white offset on this areas of the image? If yes then its not the software problem.

    We have discovered that is actually a bug in the firmware. You will need to re-flash with a bug fix. What board and firmware are you running?

    Hi, Aaryn! Where can I get detailed info about this bug and fix?

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #91991

    BT
    Participant
    #92012

    Aaryn
    Participant

    I will summarize the problem.  The more recent versions of Marlin the code that updates the settings for the fan was changed.  The change caused it to delay the fan updates.  Since many of us use the fan to control our lasers that change causes the laser to turn on and off to early or too late.  As you can see in your photo and in the photos in the other Thread BT pointed you to.

    Here is the offending code.  It is located in the Marlin.cpp file.

    // Limit check_axes_activity frequency to 10Hz
    static millis_t next_check_axes_ms = 0;
    if (ELAPSED(ms, next_check_axes_ms)) {
    planner.check_axes_activity();
    next_check_axes_ms = ms + 100UL;
    }

    To fix the problem it needs to be changed to this.

      // Limit check_axes_activity frequency to 10Hz
    //static millis_t next_check_axes_ms = 0;
    //if (ELAPSED(ms, next_check_axes_ms)) {
    planner.check_axes_activity();     //< THIS IS THE ONLY LINE OF CODE YOU LEAVE UNCOMMENTED
    // next_check_axes_ms = ms + 100UL;
    //}

     

    Now I would like to step back for a moment.  In your post you said there is a problem with program that Victor made.  I took one look at your picture and I saw the Jagged hard edges and told you about this firmware bug.   I believe you may have been talking about a different problem.  So let’s discuss the other problem.  I am going to call it the grey area between the dark areas.  That is not from the firmware bug.  Most likely that is from the image you are using.  It might have some “off white” color in those areas that the program is picking up saying should be grey.  If I am correct then you should be able to play with the White offset setting in the Image To Gcode tool Victor made.  Try setting it to something like 210.  That might make all your grey area go away.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #92101

    Silvio Franco
    Participant

    Hi, Aaryn.

    I am using MKS-Gen 1.4 board with Marlin.

    Thanks

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