February 26, 2018 at 3:28 pm #53813March 3, 2018 at 6:59 pm #54279
Ryan, I am pretty new to all this. Used my MPCNC to mill out the frame for an MP3DP v2. Build is about complete. I want to use your latest firmware on GitHub… In the MP3DP_Ramps_16T_MK branch, there are 2 files, Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h.
I’m not sure how to proceed from here. Do I grab Marlin 2.0 and replace these files with yours?March 3, 2018 at 7:03 pm #54280
I’m really clueless. I see that the Bugfix_2.0 only has the 2 files as well. I’m sure this is ridiculously simple.March 3, 2018 at 8:37 pm #54282
You can get the beta 2.0 branch here:
But I don’t think you’d be unhappy with the older, but stable firmware for the v1 machine (nothing has changed that needs a software update):
That is assuming you have the ramps and not the Rambo control board.
Personally, I have a hard time recommending 2.0 until they actually make a release on it. And if you’re not confident with this stuff, then I’d wait a bit longer even.March 4, 2018 at 10:16 am #54295October 17, 2018 at 11:34 am #72405
Im not savvy enough on thingiverse to figure dimensions out. What is the size of the xz frame? It looks to be the biggest part milled out of one piece. Also, I cant find a kit for the MP3DP. With my medical situation and a youn child i dont get to spend as much time with my MPCNC as I went on would like. This seems like something I could bring inside and tinker with. Is it as user friendly as the MPCNC? I am pretty mechanical but when you guys talk about reflashing, coding and micro-blah blah blah I turn into a 2 year old watching a magician!October 17, 2018 at 2:56 pm #72441
What is the size of the xz frame?
Is it as user friendly as the MPCNC? I am pretty mechanical but when you guys talk about reflashing, coding and micro-blah blah blah I turn into a 2 year old watching a magician!
Tough question. This in not the cheapest nor the easiest printer to use. It requires a lot of DIY. I made it to be a project not really a product. I carry most of the parts but they are also pretty common items.December 5, 2018 at 4:37 am #78199
What are the max. dimensions of the assembled printer for building an enclosure?
ThanksMarch 25, 2019 at 12:50 pm #94517
I “need” a high temp setup so I can play around with a plethora of different materials.
I am starting to source parts for my build. I am done with printing the parts. Since I am from Europe I need to source the non M3 screws. M3.5 is as hard to get here as 6-32, so I am going to get the 6-32’s from my dealer for imperial stuff.
As material for the frame I am planning on using 10mm (or maybe 8mm – the corners might be a better fit with the 10mm thick one, and I could mill it down to 3/8 of an inch where they screw into the corners, so that they are flush) thick, black HDPE (I don’t want to paint stuff). For the bed I was thinking 3mm thick carbon fiber, although that might be overkill – maybe I’ll start with the HDPE and go from there.
Extruder and Hotend will be the suggested E3D aero setup with high temperature upgrades (different heater cartridge and thermo couple instead of Thermistor). Heat bed will be E3D’s mains powered Hight Temperature Heat bed. Brainbox will probably be the einsy board and a full graphics controller with SD card reader.
Motors and some of the rods I will recycle from my old printRbot. Since I decided on some rather more expensive components, this might turn out to be a multi stage build – I hope to get it done by end on July.
This post is just meant as sanity check – does anything in here sound stupid to anyone?March 25, 2019 at 2:35 pm #94537
This post is just meant as sanity check – does anything in here sound stupid to anyone?
It all sounds good to me. The one thing you did not mention that may be the biggest problem is the power supply. The heated bed will need a LOT of power. Amps being the most important number to look for. I am pretty sure you can look up how many amps the bed will require. I am like 95% sure Einsy board can handle the amps to the heated bed (it is a great board). You will just need to make sure you find a power supply that can push enough amps to keep your heated Bed running.
Because if you are going to experiment with several material types then sometimes you will need the higher bed temperatures. Many of the cheaper heated bed, Main board, and power supply combinations can’t sustain a temperature above 70 C.
1 user thanked author for this post.April 6, 2019 at 5:44 am #95797
He said mains powered bed, so 220v ac. That’ll get hot enough for anything. Just make sure you get a quality SSR. SSRs tend to fail closed, so it won’t turn off.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.