I made another MP3DP…..kinda

New Home Forum Milled Printed 3D Printer -MP3DP Hardware Development – MP3DP I made another MP3DP…..kinda

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This topic contains 167 replies, has 15 voices, and was last updated by  Ryan 1 month, 3 weeks ago.

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  • #50836

    Bill
    Participant

    D.a.n.g but you’re having fun coming up with names… 🙂

    I really like the ‘MP’ portion of the name, because it ties in the MPCNC as a family member … and it is Mostly Printed. Maybe “MP DIY 3D Printer V1v2”, though you’d likely have to make it bigger so you could etch it into the top rail…

    #50837

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Makes sense. I like that logic, but if we come up with a new naming scheme I will have to update all the other machines so we can name them as well. 😉

    #50843

    Barry
    Participant

    CAP3DP

    Can’t afford a Prusa 3d Printer.

    #50845

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Now we’re talking.

    #50878

    Bill
    Participant

    Prusa3DP

    #50879

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    HAHAA

    #50880

    Bill
    Participant

    BTW, mine has moved to its new home in the kitchen, freeing up the coffee table in the living room. I’ve printed three or four things since the move and they’re coming out close to perfect. Time to print the new one?

    #50881

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    It is done, I am working on the page right now, https://www.v1engineering.com/projects/project-3d-printer/

    As I start exporting the new STL’s I might rename a few and I will have the BOM updating slowly as usual….The worst part is the BOM and instructions but I  think I have some easy pics and renders to help this time.

    #50883

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Attachments:
    #50887

    Marshall
    Participant

    I’m so excited. Just peed myself a little.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #50889

    Barry
    Participant

    BTW, mine has moved to its new home in the kitchen, freeing up the coffee table in the living room. I’ve printed three or four things since the move and they’re coming out close to perfect. Time to print the new one?

    Upgrades to the chair?

    #50890

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    It’s on thingiverse, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2754519

    As usual I have all the rest to go. I have some mountain dew so fingers crossed i get a bunch done tonight.

    #50891

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Marshall, I really hope it was worth doing an emergency load of laundry. I mean I like it and all but it’s more of a “taking care of the sloppy mistakes on V1” kinda thing…

    So on to the next one. Most of you know I tried the CoreXY stuff, we ended up with the ZenXY, but I don’t think I want to make a printer based on that. I do want to make a bowden style with the build plate on the Z axis, I think. I mean on the back burner after some LR and MPCNC updates. Maybe that is how I test some new CNC stuff….Why can’t I ever stop and just enjoy being mostly caught up…..

    #50893

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Awesome. I spent this evening working on my old wanhao and I’m ready to print some stuff. I would feel uncomfortable if I didn’t have a backup when I start this upgrade.

    #50941

    Bill
    Participant

    All right, time to do some printing! Suggested infill percentage, layer height?

    #50943

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Smooth and sexy, thin to win….dang it I can’t think of any more. I think I did them all at .25 and 20% There isn’t much infill room with 3 perimeters, so anything goes I think.

    #50945

    Bill
    Participant

    I’ll give that a shot on at least the first few pieces… 🙂

    #50954

    Bill
    Participant

    So I gotta ask … why aren’t the angles on the corner pieces 45°? It looks like they’re 48° or 41° or something. My slicer puts the infill angle at 45°, but it doesn’t quite match the outer walls, so it adds a short length to fill in.

    #50963

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Hmm. Originally is was asymmetrical. I switched back and just kept moving. When I did start looking at those parts it just seemed to be the right amount of plastic vs frame. the outer corner is 40°, the inner was dictated by the frame thickness and leaving enough room for screw heads and nuts. I messed with the frame thickness a few times so instead of changing the front plates I had already cut IRL I changed the corners. lazy or genius?

    I made 4-5 attempts at different designs, got irritated, sold my robos and needed to replace them in a hurry. I have two contenders I want to revisit. This one is my favorite, but next up will have to be the box style z bed / bowden.

    asm

    This one actually uses a semi floating extruder and short bowden on the Cartesian frame. That is why I stopped working on it. I realized (a very obvious not sure why I never thought or realized it before) on this style the moving head and the moving bed would make a better system if they are equal in weight (or very similar). Both are just a ton of moving mass on this style. On the other overhead Cartesian (mpcnc style) much more speed and accuracy are possible, if the bowden is tuned properly and is short as possible, or direct drive.

    Attachments:
    #51003

    Bill
    Participant

    I’m getting pretty good results with my MP3DP Bowden/E3Dv6/Titan combo. I occasionally can see where I don’t quite have the acceleration and jerk tuned completely (the last quarter mm on a corner will have a slight over extrusion, making a bump that’s small enough you really have to know about before you can see it) but I can print at 60mm/sec reliably (80mm/sec can get wonky). I am doing a fairly large retraction (5mm or 5.5mm IIRC) which balances out the extra speed in some designs, but for designs with few sharp corners it works well.

    I’m hacking a mount right now to put a Chimera 2-2 in so I can play with two filaments at once and actually use the second extruder port on the RAMPS.

    I haven’t looked at the designs that move the bed to do the Z travels, but there seem to be plenty of them in the wild. I kind of thought they would be temperamental in keeping the bed flat as the mechanism moves up and down.

    That one you show certainly has plenty of cool. I’m assuming the heat bed is still a rectangle, just with the corners overlapping the base. Is the nozzle (actually X axis) centered over the bed range? The trapezoid should be more rigid than a rectangle, I think.

    #51004

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Dang 60 is super fast, I need to do some speed tests, but all my machines (toys) I run slow. Sissy at heart I guess.

    Very interested to see what you think about the dual nozzles. Are you in it more for the dual color or water based support support?

    I just figure it would be cool to make a mpcnc gantry style machine. The prusa style to me just seems extremely efficient in terms of hardware. So I am interested what the extra hardware gains in real world performance. I only have experience with a really early flash forge and an airwolf in that config. Might see if I can add some style to a square frame…just an experiment really.

    The screenshot one was extremely minimal, with the nozzle centered over the square bed. I just felt it was going the wrong direction for what I needed.

    Still need to work on the rest of the printer release stuff, just needed to take a day off and get out before a bunch of storms roll in to my neck of the woods.

    #51005

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    That’s pretty crazy, Ryan. I’m not sure I’m ready for something like that. :). There’s definitely wasted space under that axis with one bearing. Did you make it bigger on the other side, or smaller on that side?

    Great that you enjoy doing that kind of thing. It would take me so long to get that far that I would insist on finishing, and forcing all my friends to buy one, just to avoid sunk costs.

    I am thinking I might just pull out all the stops for this next printer… New extruder, A bltouch (I know), pei. I just tried pei for the first time. I’m pretty excited. The first layer is perfect.

    Two questions:

    1) How much hardware is not compatible? Do I need longer rails or anything? I’m assuming new belts are likely. It would be great if I didn’t have to redo my wiring but… That’s part of the fun, I guess.

    2) Have you ever tried using the motors with the builtin leadscrews? I think they are becoming more common now that it’s been a while since prusa added them.

    #51030

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    1-Depending on the thickness the screws will probably be different. As for the expensive stuff all the same except I use 16T toothed idlers instead of the larger 608’s, less rotational inertia….probably no big deal but that is how I see it.

    2-They will work, just a hassle to ship on my end. I am also not 100 convinced that is the best idea. I think I know why they went that route but I haven;t seen the coupler issues in a long time. The early ones were not centered well, I think they used to be a two op thing now they are one for no miss alignments. I can see I have a bent mount on one printer and it still prints great thanks to the coupler.

    I really like the idea of the bl touch even more than the pinda probes. Now that Marlin 2.0 has all the edit for them they will probably be more common. I also want to bring in some of the OLED screens as those edits are built in as well.

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    #51040

    Bill
    Participant

    I’m looking more at two colors rather than including the water soluble, though the two colors could easily be something like silver and wood… My impression is that water soluble is more flexible than normal PLA which could be a challenge with the bowden setup. I could easily be wrong there though.

    I’m almost done printing parts. I’ll have to get someone to help with the milled pieces though, I don’t have access to the garage and my MPCNC until I’m out of the wheelchair (four to five weeks yet). I am still planning on milling in a display mount at the top of the XZ Frame.

    So with a gantry design would you be milling an enclosure or doing something with extruded aluminum?

    Jeff, the dual extruder mount I’m playing with right now has a BLTouch bracket, and I just happen to have a couple of the Chinese clones… I’ll definitely have it in the mix. 🙂 I’ve been using PEI for months and it’s great! I sure wish I could find it affordably in larger sheets, the XL really, really wants it too.

    #51050

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I just happen to have a couple of the Chinese clones…

    What? There are chinese clones? Where? The $40 seems pretty steep to me… Now I feel bad.

    #51051

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Like this guy?

    https://www.amazon.com/xlpace-Touches-Sensor-Printer-Precision/dp/B077YBLSKK

    This guy is cool (black), but still not cheap enough for me to not get the “original”.

    #51064

    Bill
    Participant

    Would this one be more in your price range?

    #51166

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I think I have covered 99% of the instructions. As usual let me know what errors ya’ll find. Or any missing or confusing info.

    Project – 3D Printer -V2-

    #51220

    Bill
    Participant

    Hardware:

    Here is a simplified hardware list, a few are made for shorter but this is as simple as it gets. You can als go longer on most all of these.

    perhaps should be:

    Here is a simplified hardware list, a few parts are made for shorter hardware but this is as simple as it gets. You can also go longer on most all of these.

    Looks like the list is missing the springs.

    You should also include the MK Fan itself, since we’re printing the funnel.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #51225

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Thanks! I will change the words, the springs and fan are on / in the specialty parts list on the left side.

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