Hylian Shield and The Punisher

New Home Forum Things You Have Made Hylian Shield and The Punisher

This topic contains 9 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by  TomW 4 months, 3 weeks ago.

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  • #90498

    TomW
    Participant

    Knocked these out on Thursday. I teach kids to code at a local “The Coder School” and one of my students told me how he loved Link’s Hylian shield, so I made a couple out of 1/2″ Baltic Birch. Another friend said he would love to make the MPCNC and said the first thing he would make is a good sized Punisher, so to push him forward a bit, I made him one out of 1/2″ Baltic Birch as well. I’m in the middle of making a Minecraft Redstone lamp right now…. more to come after I finish it.

    First cut of the Hylian shield

    MPCNC-3-3

    Second cut of the punisher

    MPCNC-1-17

    Finished products…..

    MPCNC-2-4

     

    I will say, that I’ve worked hard to get better at tool changes and it’s starting to show. I use Mark’s (aka. Some Old Coding Guy) process (thanks Mark!) to create two separate files. The key has been the second tool’s home. I always keep home off the piece and use an awl to mark home for both cuts (or more). I can then drop the bit into the hole and know I’m home. This doesn’t work well for large bits, but for 1/16″, 1/8″ or any v-groove it works great.

    So simple to get a jpg off the net, bring it into Inkscape, clean it up, save the SVG, load into ESTLCAM and cut it on the MPCNC. Sweet…..

    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #90530

    Josh
    Participant

    I like it!  The awl trick works good with ver bits but I had a hard time locating the center of 1/8″ + end mills.  I use stop blocks that Mark posted to thingiverse and they work great.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #90580

    TomW
    Participant

    Thanks Josh. I tried using Mark’s spring clamps and even purchased some round nylon stop clamps, but didn’t get the accuracy I wanted. I punch a hole with my awl and the 1/8″ bit fits in it. Then when I place the v-bit in it I sink it down until the gantry won’t move in any direction. Then I lift up the z axis.

    If you have some time to give me some tips on Marks process, I’d like it. I’m still off 1/16″ to 1/8″ in some, not all of my cuts.

    Thanks!!

    #90589

    Ulli
    Participant

    What is Mark’s thingaverse alias, please?

    #90603

    TomW
    Participant

    Not sure about Thingiverse, but he’s out there as Some Old Guy Coding

    and on YouTube here

     

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #90630

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    https://www.thingiverse.com/markz/designs

    Markz. He represents all Markz.

    #90714

    Josh
    Participant

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2119083

    I mount my material, move the spindle to the start point and lower Z to touch the material so it doesn’t move.  Slide the temporary hard end stops to the axis rollers and tighten them down.  Once the hard stops are tightened I set my Z height and use light pressure to make sure everything is against the hard stops then power the machine on.  After the cut is finished I change bits if I need to them move everything to the hard end stops again and start over.  If I need to set Z at the same height I use a multimeter with alligator clamps and piece of foil tape on the workpiece.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #90721

    TomW
    Participant

    Thanks Josh. I see a couple of things I could change. I had planned to add the z-probe soon. I was going to follow instructions to add it to the controller, but I like the multi-meter idea.

    #90734

    Josh
    Participant

    I like the idea of what this machine is capable of but after working with a Laguna CNC at our middle school I think it’s way faster to break the cuts into separate files and move the machine manually.  If I understood programming better I would probably do things differently.

    #90786

    TomW
    Participant

    Thanks again Josh….. it’s working for me!

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