Hardware needed for a software fix

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This topic contains 445 replies, has 24 voices, and was last updated by  Ryan 19 hours, 36 minutes ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 361 through 390 (of 446 total)
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  • #61858

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Nom Nom Nom. From the pitch, it sounded pretty consistent in speed. Much better than just the HF dimmer dial!

    #61859

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That is what I was going off of. The was slotting, finishing passes, and free air. Nothing like a dumb dimmer at all.

    Now that I have real complete set of numbers to go off of time to dig into some more feeds and speeds calcs.

    This one, https://zero-divide.net/?page=fswizard, actually seems correct it is just not configurable enough to what units you want and where. It says for the cut in the video I should have been at 4.5mm/s or 25k RPM ( tested it at 22k and it seemed perfect)…pretty good if you ask me. Now I need to find a good one, that isn’t overly complicated.

    #61861

    Ryan
    Keymaster


    I got overly excited last night and order a couple of these…is it narcissistic if I did it just to get the logo on some PCB’s of my own design? If they don’t work out I will get some cool Nano breakout boards to use.

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    #61872

    Todd Hansen
    Participant

    Really cool. When can I place my order.

    #61874

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Ohhhh you have so much faith that my first try will be correct…I will be happy with something that works with minor modifications for my first try.

    #61932

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Something like this could be a good screen:

    1.3” OLED Display Mini Shield for Raspberry Pi

    You could connect straight to it from an arduino without the raspberry pi. Its got the screen, a directional stick, and three buttons (reset, pause, resume?)

    Maybe not for this project, but you must be ready for your next SW project 🙂

    #62018

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I think that site is going to cost me a lot of money.

    Definitely thinking of ways to make this “kit” easier to use. A suggested optional screen would help.

    #62019

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    One of the most frustrating/exciting things is that I end up spending 20 hours on $10 of electronics, and it’s so much fun, I spend $100 on electronics, and I can’t possibly spend enough time to finish the projects.

    #62120

    Ryan
    Keymaster


    This board arrived before the headers from Amazon.

    #62122

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    OOOOOOOOOooooo Weeeee, that is nice. Quick mock up.

    #62128

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    That is pretty. I bought a ridiculous keyboard that comes as a pcb and a bag of keys. It did something cool, which is to make the logos in the top layer instead of the silk screen.

    It looks better IRL.

    #62132

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Nice! Put that in the bag of tricks for the next board.

    #62138

    Todd Hansen
    Participant

    That board is looking realy cool. Can’t wait to see your report on how it works.

    #62145

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Tempted to solder the nano in directly but I will give it one more day for the headers.

    #62386

    Bill
    Participant

    So, did the headers get in?

    #62390

    Ryan
    Keymaster
    #62392

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I have not ran it yet…Just need to verify that having the cap a tiny bit further away is still okay. I will put a few for sale soon as soon as I verify it works.

    #62536

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Avoiding packing orders…not feeling it today, only two left…

    Names for this thing?

    Pidgin Router Control, it has PID in it, abbreviates to PRC, pidgin means mash up of a bunch of languages, which this is C++, pwm, arduino, math? Other options? Pidgin Motor Control?

    #62584

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Finally an update. The board works 100%. It didn’t at first for some reason. Re-flashed the Nano, perfect with no other changes. No idea what that is about…gremlins.

     

    The minor issue, confirmed. If I flip on the power strip and the router is on, it will turn for a second at extremely low RPM, like 10. #1, the easy fix is make sure the router is powered off, should be an obvious one but I seem to keep forgetting, automation is making me lazy. #2 not actually a big deal, as it barely moves if you do forget. #3 try a pulldown resistor on the control PWM in? This needs to be tested, I am not educated in this stuff enough to know if there are any drawbacks to this. Heffe says it’s okay so it is worth a try.

    If any of you know a lot about this stuff, could you explain this in different words? My understanding, So for s split second when it boots the arduino hasn’t routed the resistor it has at it’s disposal to ground that pin. By adding another one we are just basically hard wiring that connection? Is there such thing as too large a resistor? Does it effect the timing, or response? It almost seems as if the PWM comes from the arduino being able to time it’s connection and disconnection to this resistor right? I know I have a scope at my disposal now but…learning the hard way isn’t as easy as someone confirming this.

    #62585

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Sorry I should have tried google first. First result, I feel lazy. This picture actually clears it up for me.

    https://playground.arduino.cc/CommonTopics/PullUpDownResistor

    Basically when it is active it isn’t really even in the circuit.

    #62586

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I think you want the pulldown on the enable pin (pwm pin would be good too, but disabling it will fix the startup).

    #62587

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Ahh…the old look at the software logic…You think I would have remembered what the other pin is for…

    Thanks! Super stoked.

    #62600

    Bill
    Participant

    And it sounds like you have a good handle on what’s going on. When you power up the Nano the I/O pins are going to be floating, they could be read as up or as down, depending where your reference point is in comparison to the rest of the world. As soon as the Nano gets far enough into it’s power up sequence (note, not boot sequence, that doesn’t happen until after it’s powered up) it will put all I/O pins into a known state, typically off. So you might see the enable and the PWM both up for a split second, which would start the motor at an undetermined speed, then stop it a split second later. If you put a pull down (use a high ohm resistor, so it doesn’t pull it down farther than it can be pulled back up) on the enable the motor won’t start, even if it sees a pulse from the PWM pin.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #63701

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Okay, the LR2 is coming right along finally. I should be getting back to this project shortly. I have added a few kits with PCB’s for any of you brave souls that might wanna get your hands dirty for a special price.

    PID Development Kit

    #64542

    Todd Hansen
    Participant

    See you have the kit in the store.  Will you ever have just the board?

    #64543

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Not on the first 10. I will dig a little deeper soon. Wrapping up the LR2 then getting back to the PID.

    #64715

    Tim
    Participant

    Is the PWM  0-5volt or 0-10? I’m using a uno not mega so just wondering 🙂

    #64719

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Shoot Todd, you already have the dimmer right, no need to buy another? Sorry brain fart on that one.

     

    Tim, 0-5, as far as I know all arduinos are the same.

    #64725

    Todd Hansen
    Participant

    Ryan,

    I am just looking to purchase one of your nice PCB board’s.

    Want to keep everything clean and rock solid in the control box.

    #64726

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Sorry I should have know. I will add an option right now.

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