- June 18, 2018 at 2:28 pm #61858
Nom Nom Nom. From the pitch, it sounded pretty consistent in speed. Much better than just the HF dimmer dial!June 18, 2018 at 2:36 pm #61859
That is what I was going off of. The was slotting, finishing passes, and free air. Nothing like a dumb dimmer at all.
Now that I have real complete set of numbers to go off of time to dig into some more feeds and speeds calcs.
This one, https://zero-divide.net/?page=fswizard, actually seems correct it is just not configurable enough to what units you want and where. It says for the cut in the video I should have been at 4.5mm/s or 25k RPM ( tested it at 22k and it seemed perfect)…pretty good if you ask me. Now I need to find a good one, that isn’t overly complicated.
June 18, 2018 at 2:42 pm #61861June 19, 2018 at 4:15 am #61872
- This reply was modified 1 month ago by Ryan.
Really cool. When can I place my order.June 19, 2018 at 8:05 am #61874
Ohhhh you have so much faith that my first try will be correct…I will be happy with something that works with minor modifications for my first try.June 19, 2018 at 8:57 pm #61932
Something like this could be a good screen:
You could connect straight to it from an arduino without the raspberry pi. Its got the screen, a directional stick, and three buttons (reset, pause, resume?)
Maybe not for this project, but you must be ready for your next SW project 🙂June 21, 2018 at 11:43 am #62018
I think that site is going to cost me a lot of money.
Definitely thinking of ways to make this “kit” easier to use. A suggested optional screen would help.June 21, 2018 at 11:50 am #62019
One of the most frustrating/exciting things is that I end up spending 20 hours on $10 of electronics, and it’s so much fun, I spend $100 on electronics, and I can’t possibly spend enough time to finish the projects.June 22, 2018 at 8:07 pm #62120June 22, 2018 at 8:17 pm #62122June 22, 2018 at 9:33 pm #62128June 22, 2018 at 9:44 pm #62132
Nice! Put that in the bag of tricks for the next board.June 23, 2018 at 6:17 am #62138
That board is looking realy cool. Can’t wait to see your report on how it works.June 23, 2018 at 10:08 am #62145
Tempted to solder the nano in directly but I will give it one more day for the headers.June 26, 2018 at 4:02 pm #62386
So, did the headers get in?June 26, 2018 at 4:14 pm #62390June 26, 2018 at 4:15 pm #62392
I have not ran it yet…Just need to verify that having the cap a tiny bit further away is still okay. I will put a few for sale soon as soon as I verify it works.June 27, 2018 at 3:51 pm #62536
Avoiding packing orders…not feeling it today, only two left…
Names for this thing?
Pidgin Router Control, it has PID in it, abbreviates to PRC, pidgin means mash up of a bunch of languages, which this is C++, pwm, arduino, math? Other options? Pidgin Motor Control?June 28, 2018 at 1:34 pm #62584
Finally an update. The board works 100%. It didn’t at first for some reason. Re-flashed the Nano, perfect with no other changes. No idea what that is about…gremlins.
The minor issue, confirmed. If I flip on the power strip and the router is on, it will turn for a second at extremely low RPM, like 10. #1, the easy fix is make sure the router is powered off, should be an obvious one but I seem to keep forgetting, automation is making me lazy. #2 not actually a big deal, as it barely moves if you do forget. #3 try a pulldown resistor on the control PWM in? This needs to be tested, I am not educated in this stuff enough to know if there are any drawbacks to this. Heffe says it’s okay so it is worth a try.
If any of you know a lot about this stuff, could you explain this in different words? My understanding, So for s split second when it boots the arduino hasn’t routed the resistor it has at it’s disposal to ground that pin. By adding another one we are just basically hard wiring that connection? Is there such thing as too large a resistor? Does it effect the timing, or response? It almost seems as if the PWM comes from the arduino being able to time it’s connection and disconnection to this resistor right? I know I have a scope at my disposal now but…learning the hard way isn’t as easy as someone confirming this.June 28, 2018 at 1:37 pm #62585
Sorry I should have tried google first. First result, I feel lazy. This picture actually clears it up for me.
Basically when it is active it isn’t really even in the circuit.June 28, 2018 at 1:43 pm #62586
I think you want the pulldown on the enable pin (pwm pin would be good too, but disabling it will fix the startup).June 28, 2018 at 1:45 pm #62587
Ahh…the old look at the software logic…You think I would have remembered what the other pin is for…
Thanks! Super stoked.June 28, 2018 at 5:23 pm #62600
And it sounds like you have a good handle on what’s going on. When you power up the Nano the I/O pins are going to be floating, they could be read as up or as down, depending where your reference point is in comparison to the rest of the world. As soon as the Nano gets far enough into it’s power up sequence (note, not boot sequence, that doesn’t happen until after it’s powered up) it will put all I/O pins into a known state, typically off. So you might see the enable and the PWM both up for a split second, which would start the motor at an undetermined speed, then stop it a split second later. If you put a pull down (use a high ohm resistor, so it doesn’t pull it down farther than it can be pulled back up) on the enable the motor won’t start, even if it sees a pulse from the PWM pin.
1 user thanked author for this post.July 14, 2018 at 9:34 am #63701
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