Grand plans for an update… not so much. *LR2 Released*

New Home Forum LowRider Hardware Development – LowRider Grand plans for an update… not so much. *LR2 Released*

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This topic contains 418 replies, has 50 voices, and was last updated by  Joe 1 month, 3 weeks ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 61 through 90 (of 419 total)
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  • #62972

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    So this is the distance from the bottom of the wheel to the top of the lower red mounts in the picture above.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #62973

    Ben Fillmore
    Participant

    Make sense.  Honestly, I’m stoked that there are no bottom wheels in this version.  I won’t need to skin the bottom of my torsion box now.  Total materials will end up being 2 sheets of 1/2″ MDF.  😀

    #62974

    Barry
    Participant

    Make sense. Honestly, I’m stoked that there are no bottom wheels in this version. I won’t need to skin the bottom of my torsion box now. Total materials will end up being 2 sheets of 1/2″ MDF. ?

    You’ll lose a little stiffness by not skinning the bottom.  Usually a torsion box will have thicker outside edges, and thinner inner webbing and skins.  Think interior hollow core door, or aircraft panels.

    #62991

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Cant wait to get started on this. I need some cabinets for my makerspace. This is going to save a lot of money.

    #62996

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Barry I have an idea for a table not sure how well it will work. I really like having access to the bottom of it for short clamps. My last faux torsion box also acted like a freaking amplifier, so if I ever do it again I would add some insulation in it. My idea this time is long 1x’s down the  Y axis connected with 1x’s in the x direction every 12-16″ I guess. Skin the top 1/2″-3/4″. That leaves it only making a rainbow in the Y direction, which is the best direction for LRCNC flex. So then having 2 2×4’s under it all in the Y direction at the bessel points in both X and Y direction (maybe strategic placement will help). Fingers crossed but that last table all sealed up was a hindrance to me.

    I don’t know why I didn’t just finish up my CAD Drawing…a picture is worth a million of my poorly organized words.

    Tacos…I am close. Kinda forgot about the holiday so that set me back a little time. I am really trying to wrap this up so I can get back the the PID.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #63001

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Awesome. I broke down the white printer. So I got close to everything I need. I was going to break down the wood printer also. But I couldn’t bring my self to do it. Its special, even if I wont use it much anymore.

    #63010

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    My idea this time is long 1x’s down the  Y axis connected with 1x’s in the x direction every 12-16″

    I would definitely give thought to using engineered material of some sort. If you can get away with 1x or 2x, please do, but it will get wider and skinnier with the seasons. 3/4″ ply won’t. At least for those of us that are paranoid, and have a decent table saw, try to plan for sheets.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #63011

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I love MDF, for that reason. The 1x’s I am using can easily be swapped for 2x’s. I am trying to plan ahead but also gain tiny bits of rigidity.

    #63025

    Barry
    Participant

    If you’re going to use 1X material, Jeff is right, they’re going to move on you.  They’ll also not move evenly.  I had a poplar 1X start to look like a recurve bow after about a month in the barn.  Was a leftover from my loft railing panels.  Paint or clear coat might help.

     

    I don’t know why I didn’t just finish up my CAD Drawing…a picture is worth a million of my poorly organized words.

    Yea, why is that?  I was happy with the napkin drawing of mine, but nooooo, you egged me on to finish my cad drawing…   😉

    #63027

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I’ve never tried to quantify how much it moves (so I assume I’m paranoid). Here is a quick explaination of the basics (which way it moves, why it changes shape, and how much):

    http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/2_Wood_Movement/2_Wood_Movement.htm

    They show it changing by 1/4in per 12″ width, so a 3″ would move 1/16″ seasonally, or 1.6mm. If it all moves together, that’s fine, but it will also depend on which cuts you get. If it’s quarter sawn, and all the grain is going in the same direction, it probably won’t matter. If it’s plane sawn, then the cupping alone could cause bigger issues. It also will depend on what you’re doing with it, obviously if you’re fine cutting another 5mm on everything, then it won’t matter.

    #63032

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Well, shoot, I’ll stick with the 2×3’s (same basic dims and cheaper) they didn’t noticeably move on me last time, but my garage is also extremely temp stable. It is half buried in the ground.

    It just seems a table for holding one sheet of wood does not need to be so over built.

    #63037

    Mike
    Participant

    It just seems a table for holding one sheet of wood does not need to be so over built.

    Nah, remember, if it’s worth doin’, it’s worth over doin’!

    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #63046

    Barry
    Participant

    If you can’t make it perfect, make it adjustable!

    #63047

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    If you can’t make it perfect, make it open-source!

    There, fixed that for ya.

    #63059

    Jonathan Reid
    Participant

    So I am thinking that if the new plastic parts are not available in your store in 2 weeks when I get to the US – I am going to have to get a 3D printer !  OK I admit I am looking for a valid excuse for a 3D printer anyway….

    If I can sort out plastic part printing and flat parts in NZ, would you have the remaining hardware kit (or bulk of it) ready to sell ?  That would still save me on shipping/customs/time etc which would be pretty helpful

    #63067

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    So wait at least two weeks to sell parts so you get a printer…instead ship you hardware as cheap and quickly as possible, check and check!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #63136

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Might be getting lost in my own madness here…chasing down every easy source of inaccuracy here.

    IMG_20180706_1612352

    These get rid of any cable tie or belt flex at the union of the two. Huge difference, no. Noticeable difference, I highly doubt it. Why, because I can. Two flavors depending on where you mount the clasp.

    #63139

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I like them.

    Have you tried these? The designer is obviously clever and presumably very handsome:

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1516254

    I use them on my belts on my low rider.

    #63140

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Ohhhhhh I like that. I need to try them out. These bigger belts can be squeezed a bit with much more positive contact, but I like your idea better. Maybe I can combine them….

    P.S. I am not screwing around, I am printing , test fitting, revising, printing…etc. So far using mostly 1″ screws, and a few 1.5″.

    pps, Fedex just dropped off 5 boxes and didn’t even knock or ring the doorbell…least he didn’t take them and leave a signature notice.

    #63141

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    When I really zip down the ties that pushes the belt on itself, mine tend to squeeze the belt into a circle. Maybe that’s just a problem with the smaller belts.

    I was thinking you’d want both.

    #63144

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Okay, I went back and forth on that. Making parts, destroying zip ties…I just don’t trust 3d printed teeth to holds as well as they would  secured to themselves.

    Here is what I came up with. Seems bullet proof. Three teeth face up on each side, 4 on the buckle side might be better…

    IMG_20180706_2054452

    IMG_20180706_2055012

    #63149

    Ben Fillmore
    Participant

    Here is what I came up with. Seems bullet proof. Three teeth face up on each side, 4 on the buckle side might be better…

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #63160

    Barry
    Participant

    My printer is ready!  Also took apart the lowrider and put a coat of acrylic on it.  I’ll add another coat this afternoon.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #63163

    dkj4linux
    Participant

    What a great shop/workspace, Barry. So rustic and warm… er, cold, I imagine  😉

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #63166

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Oh no, how thick is that table?

    #63167

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    He uses unistrut rails, remember?

    #63173

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Nice…I’ll keep going on this size then.

    #63178

    Barry
    Participant

    What a great shop/workspace, Barry. So rustic and warm… er, cold, I imagine ?

    These days it’s quite warm!!   😆

     

    Oh no, how thick is that table?

    About 8 inches.  Like Jeff said, unistrut rails.  I can store my hold downs and clamps in the box.  It’s kinda handy!

    #63256

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    00100dPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20180708194736481_COVER

    ???? Click on it and it is the right way.
    00100dPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20180708195241723_COVER
    Closer….

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #63261

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Looking at it now maybe a little optional thrust load add on for the Z steppers. I am not concerned about the load but I get a lot of flack for it. So when/if it is all done, maybe an optional 608 holder for the Z couplers.

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