Tagged: LR2 Design
August 23, 2018 at 3:52 am #67128
Having problems finding 1″ here also – are there plans for a 25mm version?August 23, 2018 at 9:00 am #67135
I am hoping to release it today.August 23, 2018 at 3:26 pm #67182August 23, 2018 at 4:14 pm #67200
When are you coming out with the 0.984″ version?August 23, 2018 at 4:20 pm #67201
What about the 2.0019″ version?August 23, 2018 at 4:37 pm #67205
Shhhhhhhhh, shhhhhhhhhAugust 24, 2018 at 4:40 am #67265
What makes the 25mm version different (other than the 0.4mm 😛 ) from the 25.4mm one? Would the 25mm version allow me to use the same tubes as I have on my MPCNC?August 24, 2018 at 4:46 am #67267
What makes the 25mm version different (other than the 0.4mm ? ) from the 25.4mm one? Would the 25mm version allow me to use the same tubes as I have on my MPCNC?
1 inch tube is hard to find in some countries. Their closest equivalent is 25mm. The problem is the size is enough to not work with the 1 inch version, so Ryan has to redesign the parts with that diameter tube.August 24, 2018 at 8:11 am #67282
It used to be called the international version.
1 user thanked author for this post.August 24, 2018 at 8:20 am #67283
First batch of new wheels are due Saturday. My previous supplier has my money, emailed to say he didn’t have the whole order, I asked for the partial to be shipped, and here we are a week later with zero updates or a tracking number for a very large amount of hockey wheels. I might have pissed of Canada….August 24, 2018 at 8:51 am #67293
It used to be called the international version.
Okay, thanks for clarifying that. So I should stick with the 25.4mm files i guess.August 28, 2018 at 8:04 am #67650
Just checking if there are any more versions of the LR2 in the works before I start printing the parts for the 25.4. Thanks!August 28, 2018 at 8:47 am #67655August 28, 2018 at 8:41 pm #67714
MikeParticipantOctober 2, 2018 at 2:26 am #70847
Any hints when the next lot of flat packs are up, I keep missing them, stupid Aussie times! haha. got the money here and I’m ready to hit that buy button.
I assume there is no pre-order or backlog option so you don’t get overrun? haha.October 2, 2018 at 10:13 am #70866
I had them in stock for almost a week solid. I try to make a set or two everyday, in the evenings.
Pre-orders have been nothing but a nightmare for me on this end. I do not foresee doing that again.October 2, 2018 at 4:44 pm #70894
Don’t stress, I probably missed them in stock since I have been going through a big change at work the last few weeks. I will keep an eye on it every arvo. You are in the US correct? Just trying to work out the best times to check in haha.October 3, 2018 at 4:50 am #70915October 4, 2018 at 1:46 pm #71038
Cheers, all over it this morning, ordered everything I needed. 🙂
1 user thanked author for this post.October 6, 2018 at 1:42 pm #71193
The lowrider 2 looks great, so much so I would like to build one here across the pond.
Are you planning on selling printed parts for the 25mm version?
Regards, TuurOctober 9, 2018 at 9:08 am #71448
I need to slice and print some 25’s, not sure why I haven’t.January 18, 2019 at 4:11 am #84335
Has anyone 3d printed the “cut parts” (611 and the Y plate)? Wondering if it is possible or should I just find someone who has extras since I dont have a CNC yet.January 18, 2019 at 6:11 am #84346
I was going to try to print mine since I’ve been having some trouble trying to source them locally. I took the *.dxf files converted them to *.svg and extruded them to 6.4mm for the 611 plate and 12.7mm for the Y plates. However, from the measurements, you’ll need a 300x300mm bed to print them in one piece, and I intend to print them with 2mm thick walls and a heavy infill to attempt to keep it as rigid as possible. Then when I have the machine build, make it mill it’s own replacements.
The other thing I thought about doing if I couldn’t print them (or if the bed was too small) was cut the plates into manageable pieces and attaching them with carpet tape to the proper sized MDF. Then using a flush trim router bit and a router table to cut the outside profile, then using transfer punches through the holes to mark them for the drill press.
Lastly, you could always convert the *.dxf to a properly scaled *.pdf, bring that to a kinkos or print shop and have them print it full scale, cut it out, then using spray adhesive, stick it the the mdf and using a bandsaw/jigsaw/coping saw to get close to the lines, and using a sander to finish the profile. Again, using a drill press to do the holes.January 18, 2019 at 7:00 am #84350
I did go the flush cutter route. Make sure to use one with a bearing for where it touches the PLA template. Otherwise the friction will destroy it.
I just uploaded my template with some instructions here.January 18, 2019 at 11:23 am #84389
I do have a 300 x 300 bed, but I just ordered some from Andrew on the forum.
ThanksJanuary 18, 2019 at 2:57 pm #84427
I just ordered a couple of 300×300 magnetic build surfaces. I’ll trim 80mm off one to fit the 300×380 we’re using on the MP3DP XL. :The new magnetic surfaces seem to be a nice way to go, like Prusa did with their latest.May 23, 2019 at 8:55 am #101360
Noob here. I have access to a cnc plasma cutter and was wondering if there was much of a difference in performance over using wood. I understand the weight difference, but would like to know if that is the only issue or if there might be others.
Any help is much appreciated.
MMay 23, 2019 at 8:57 am #101361
MDF seems to be the best option at this point. Good rigidity/weight.
1 user thanked author for this post.May 23, 2019 at 10:41 am #101375
Sounds good. Thank you.
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