geneb's build (finally!)

New Home Forum Mostly Printed CNC – MPCNC Your Builds – MPCNC geneb's build (finally!)

This topic contains 122 replies, has 9 voices, and was last updated by  Gene buckle 3 weeks, 6 days ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 61 through 90 (of 123 total)
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  • #83327

    Gene buckle
    Participant

    Ryan, is there a simple way to make x0/y0 at the lower right corner of the machine?

     

    tnx.

    #83349

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I am not really sure if you need to. Just make all your CAM based on that location and it can work in the negative, unless you use endstops.

    Why would you want that?

    #83350

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Where is it? and which way is positive X and positive Y?

    #83375

    Gene buckle
    Participant

    That’s how my ShopBot is configured.  If you were to look down on a 4×8 sheet of plywood with the long axis going left/right, the home position on my SB would be the lower left corner.  I’d like to be able to do the same with the MPCNC machine so that I don’t have to worry about adjusting the default origin point in Aspire.  I can just about guarantee that I’ll flip it and then forget to flip it back the next time I need to run a job on the other machine. 🙂

    With the SB, positive X is along the 8′ axis and positive Y is along the 4′ axis.

    tnx.

     

    g.

    #83377

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That is how I run it…isn’t it?

     

    I got an email from the aspire guys yesterday. I can offer discounts on the software but only if it is bundled with a machine and I buy it in “bulk”. I might have to try it out.

    #83380

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Right, so on your MPCNC, which corner is the 0,0 and which way is positive X and positive Y. It can be fixed, but I need to know which way it is so I can tell you what to change.

    #83382

    Gene buckle
    Participant

    All the photos I’ve seen of various setups have the home position in what would be the upper left if it were my SB.

    Aspire is /amazing/.  It’s one of the few packages that I think is worth every penny.  I upgraded from VCarve Pro years ago.

    I’ve got my axis mounts printed and I’ve got two machines finishing the motor mounting blocks. (two different styles).  I decided to buy e-chain instead of use what I printed – that along with the 4cond shielded wire should be here tomorrow.

    What’s the favored g-code sender for those that don’t use the SD card on the controller?

    g.

    #83383

    Gene buckle
    Participant

    Thanks Jeff.  I think what I’ll do is take a photo of the machine set up visually how I want it and I’ll add notation on the home position. It would be more clear that way.

    Tnx!

    g.

    #83384

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    This is mine, lower left (green dot)?

    00

    Matches CAM

    Attachments:
    #83387

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    All the photos I’ve seen of various setups have the home position in what would be the upper left if it were my SB.

    You can control where it is, and which way is X and Y. It is important that the coordinates follow the right hand rule, but otherwise, they are all fine choices.

    If you had your origin at the upper left, and XY was in the correct right hand rule, then you need to reverse the direction of the short axis, and make sure the long axis is X. You can swap axes by swapping cables and you can swap directions by flipping a plug.

    #83388

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I misunderstood. If you don’t have it moving yet, then we’ll just see where it ends up, and flip the right thing.

    #83389

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    What’s the favored g-code sender for those that don’t use the SD card on the controller?

    Repetier host, Pronterface, cnc.js, or v1pi on a raspberry pi.

    #83396

    Gene buckle
    Participant

    Ok, I’ve apparently been hallucinating. 🙂  Ryan – the way you’ve got your machine oriented is the same as I’ve got my SB.  I suspect all the content I’ve absorbed over the last couple of days has scrambled my memory. 🙂

    I like the idea of v1Pi.  I didn’t know cnc.js existed, which really isn’t that surprising. 🙂  It would be neat to get it working with a Mach3 pendant like this:

    https://www.amazon.com/HandWheel-Optical-Encoder-Generator-Pendant/dp/B00D7VSR6I/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1547246178&sr=8-9&keywords=cnc+pendant

    I don’t know how it talks to Mach3 though – I’m hoping it’s just a keyboard emulator, but I’ll have to do some digging before I throw money at one.

    g.

    #83399

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    How about using an old tablet? https://github.com/cncjs/cncjs-shopfloor-tablet

    Or maybe a ps3 game controller? https://github.com/cncjs/cncjs-pendant-ps3 … The PS3 is a little old, and now somehow precious. This should be easy to adapt to a connected USB controller, but I don’t think it’s been generalized yet.

    #83471

    Gene buckle
    Participant

    I’ve actually got a similar setup for my ShopBot that uses a wireless XBox controller and some software that translates the joystick inputs that the controller sends into keyboard data.

    I just wanted a pendant with a wheel on it. 😉

    g.

    #83775

    Mike Pensinger
    Participant

    This unit is /similar/ to the one I have: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brushless-Motor-Driver-w-Hall-Controller-400W-CNC-Motor-for-Spindle-Engraving/282297554188?hash=item41ba3ed50c:g:IosAAOSwq8BZcA-5:rk:1:pf:0

    However, I don’t think mine has the fancy control panel on the controller. I’ll get some pics taken this weekend.

    g.

    Thanks,

    Funny I was wondering if 400W would be enough and then did the wattage calc on my HF trim router and found out that it is only 288W. Guess I should be fine!

    #86662

    Gene buckle
    Participant

    Ryan, can you tweak that 55mm mount you designed?  It looks great and it fits great, but you can’t mount it.  🙂  The screw path is blocked 😀

    blocked-screw-path

    The contact surface could be increased quite  a bit since there’s really only room for a single mount in the body of the motor.

    tnx!

    g.

    #86693

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Shoot. If you move it down onto the silver band can you get two of them on there? As for the screw I need to look into it. The dewalt one is kinda like that but once it is in a slight angle on the screw driver worked…..So if the screw can’t be pushed in most of the way I can make a larger screw divot I guess? I figured the smaller diameter would actually be easier to screw in than the dewalt.

    #86846

    Gene buckle
    Participant

    The silver caps are 56.7mm in diameter. The top cap is 23mm tall, the bottom cap is 20mm tall.  The spacing between the caps is 56.6mm.

    With your current bracket design, there’s no “line of sight” to the bottom screw at all.  Even if I could get a screw in there, no screwdriver I own could turn it. 😉

    The top screw hole is blocked around ~20% by the rising arm of the bracket.

    The top silver cap is divided in the middle by the power & control cables that go into it, so it’s really not a good mounting option.

    Could you design a monolithic bracket that grabbed the motor body at right under the top silver cap and again at the bottom, but around the bottom silver cap?  That would provide space for three mounting holes on each side with clear sight lines for each.

    Thanks!

    Here’s a few pics from the build…

    Squaring the carriage the “easy” way…

    squaring-the-carriage

    “USE ALL THE CLECOS!”

    haz-clecos-will-clamp

    Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to use bucked rivets for this.  It would have looked SO much cooler…

    sad-pop-rivets

    g.

     

    #86868

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I see what you are saying, I assumed there was more room than the 660, but there is not. I don’t see an easy quick fix that would not mess up the integrity of the mount, sorry Gene. I have the editable file on thingiverse (under my files blank mount) if you just fill in the 660 mount to the diameter you want in your CAD of choice and you should be able to get the screws in like we do, with a little screw driver tilt.

    #86875

    Gene buckle
    Participant

    No worries, I’ll get it sorted.  Thanks!

     

    g.

    #87247

    Gene buckle
    Participant

    Here’s the mount I came up with.  It’s pretty basic.

    55mm-spindle-clamp-assy-1
    55mm-spindle-clamp-assy-2

    I basically copied the “back” geometry from the example mount and built the rings from there.  The top & bottom holes for the Z mount are 50mm apart.  Is the “middle” screw needed or are four enough?

    Once I’m sure it prints ok and is correct I’ll post the files to Thingiverse.

    g.

    #87254

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That should work great. I doubt a middle screw would add anything to it.

    #88511

    Gene buckle
    Participant

    I was able to spend some time on Saturday getting things finished up.  Unfortunately I’ve got an issue with the Y axis.  I suspect it’s the wiring, but it might also be a driver.  The controller is a RAMBo v1.3L board.  The firmware loaded is for auto-squaring.  I DO have the switches wired backwards such that all four show triggered when the switch is open.  I haven’t tried moving the axes with the switches unplugged.  (I just thought of it and I’m not going back out to the shop, it’s 38F!)

     

    Here’s a short video that illustrates the issue.

    tnx!

    g.

    #88514

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    The endstops should keep it from moving at all… I think… So the fact that they are triggered, and it’s still moving (at least, it’s still moving backward) is weird. I don’t think the endstops should create that goofy start/stop choppiness.

    I was trying to look at the axle on the close motor, and it looks like it’s not slipping in the gear. That’s good.

    I suspect motor wiring as #1. I would disconnect the wires at the rambo (when it’s off) and measure the resistance on each coil to make sure they are all right. You could also swap the X and Y motor connections to determine if it’s something in the motors or wires, or if it’s something in the rambo.

    #88531

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    You have one going the wrong way it looks like. The y axis seem to be fighting each other. Pop a belt off to verify or flip a plug.

    #88559

    Barry
    Participant

    I’m going with Jeff.  I’d bet one of the stepper coils is intermittent.  Ryan, the last time I had two motors run opposite, dumb ass me clicked the 50mm button in repetier, I had to reprint a part because it twisted the tube far enough to crack it.  I’m still running the old parts with the captive hook thingy over the tubes though.

     

    Gene, hopefully you’re not getting all the snow I’m seeing on the news, I forget where exactly you live over there.

    #88633

    Gene buckle
    Participant

    Thanks guys.  Yeah, I’ve got about 10-12″ of snow on the ground.  Telecommuting, ftw. 😉  The problem is that it sucks up a LOT of propane to bring the shop up to usable temps. 🙁

    I don’t think they’re fighting each other – I suspect I’ve got a wiring issue.  I just wanted a sanity check on it before I go to the effort of redoing any of those crimps. 🙁

    g.

    #90540

    Gene buckle
    Participant

    IT’S ALIVE!

    The motion isn’t as smooth as I expect it should be, but it beats the Y axis jitter-fest I had going.  That turned out to be a bad crimp on the Y0 motor…

     

    g.

    #90545

    Barry
    Participant

    The stuttering could be a vectric post processor fluke, or you could just be running the rambo out of memory.  Cool to watch it move though!

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