Fishtacos MP3DP.

This topic contains 290 replies, has 16 voices, and was last updated by  Mmmfishtacos 2 years ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 181 through 210 (of 291 total)
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  • #31042

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Here’s some more part’s i’ve been working on the last few days. And i’m only 3 grams over weight! Which is great. It still has the possibilty to fly.

    #31047

    Barry
    Participant

    Given enough thrust, anything can fly!

    I mean look at this thing! https://goo.gl/photos/4E5XKnSGNDGH5hca6 Our alert bird would take off with about 190,000 pounds of fuel onboard, that’s on top of the weight of the plane!

    #31051

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Well it not just the weight but hows its distributed. Plus i dont have the luxury of outtung a super high powered motor on it.

    Trying to slice it this was is getting frustrating. I might have to break down and buy s3d

    #31069

    JonathanMarques
    Participant

    Excellent my friend.

    Are you going to stick with CA? How are you going to keep those white spots on the plastic? Thank you

    #31078

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Yeah, I’m going to use CA glue. I glued my first wing with it and It’s a pretty strong hold. I wanted to separate the wing to weight the parts, but I couldn’t get it back apart. I feel i’ll break it out side of the glue joint before I break the joint.

    The 3d printing nerd did some test (not very scientific) on bonding PLA, and CA glue was the strongest, that and a 3d printing pen.

    #31088

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    A 3D printing pen is a good idea. CA glue seems to weld the parts together. Melting them a bit. It also discolored the red and black I was gluing, making them white at the joint.

    #31092

    Jim Hildebrandt
    Participant

    Your parts look great, looking forward to the completed build.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #31490

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Man, I got my finger hovering over the new e3d titian Aero. I’m just not sure its worth it. I’m looking at my prints and I dont think that hot end will make them look any better. The only up side is it should be a bit lighter and I would be able to print faster. I wish Some one would do a none biased experiment between the MK8 and the new titian. 110 plus shipping and a new stepper is probably too much money for a bit of a speed increase.

    #31492

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Tough call. Seems pretty nice but I would love to see if there is a noticeable difference.

    The biggest advantage is more materials, but you can get that with the micro swiss throats as well.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #31506

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    You can almost make another printer for $110.

    #31515

    Dui, ni shuo de dui
    Participant

    Your printed parts look very nice.

    Do you plan to reinforce the wings with something (carbon rod?) or just to glue them and fly directly?

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #31516

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    No, It doesn’t need any reinforcement. Just ca glue. It’s a super strong. And a rod would add to much weight.

    Got a new print done tonight. I got another on the bed now, but it’s kind of weird as the infill is showing on the skin a little bit. I’m half way finished now So I wont stop it, but i may end up re slicing it and printing again.

    #31517

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Would it even be possible to get better prints than this just from a hot end? I’m not so sure. And these are single wall at that.

    #31534

    Barry
    Participant

    I don’t know dude. Those prints look pretty good!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #31548

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    AFAIK, the quality of the hot end would affect:
    – How consistent temps you got.
    – Which could affect how consistent your extrusion would be
    – More materials
    – Higher speeds

    I think you’re doing awesome with the hotend you’ve got. Spend your money on a laser instead. ?

    I with only one shell, I think the infill is going to do that. There is a setting in slic3r that will let you choose how far into the shell the infill goes. It tries to overlap a little to give it more strength. You need a little connection. There’s also a setting to do infill first or shells first, IIRC. You could play with those.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #31563

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    This is the one i printed last night. Something is different. And you can see what i was talking about with the infill showing on yhe skin, it didnt on the other parts. His left and right parts aren’t exactly the same.

    20170416_110002

    20170416_105956

    #31572

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Huh. Interesting. Did you watch it print? I wonder if the infill is tugging the shell in.

    #31575

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Is it printing 1 shell or spiral vase?

    Kinda looks like spiral vase. That shouldn’t happen that bad with 1 shell, I think you will always see some sort of artifact though, Like Jeffeb3 is getting at.

    #31616

    Bill
    Participant

    I thought spiral vase always sliced with zero infill? At least when I tried to print a cylinder with 3mm thick walls and accidentally left it on spiral vase I got two thin walls with nothing between them.

    #31626

    David Walling
    Participant

    Check your infill overlap. I had that happen one time when I was trying to get better infill adhesion to the outer wall. I bumped it up too far and it caused something that looked just like that.

    #31645

    Dui, ni shuo de dui
    Participant

    Yes, this issue is due to the infill overlap being too high.
    It means that the print head goes a little bit too far into the shell while creating the infill, which pushes the shell’s plastic a little.
    In my opinion, for your application, it is not a bad thing, it will give you slightly more rigidity.

    You can adjust it to have a bit less artifacts, but I’m not really sure you can down it to zero artifact, unless you are going for a much higher percentage of infill. The reason being that the contraction of the shell surface will be different wether it is around the infill junction or not. So, if you want them to completely disappear, you may have to go for more perimeters, more infill and a lower infill overlap. I think the two first parameters are out of the question for you since they will add weight and printing time, so you’ll only have the possibility to play with the infill overlap.
    Don’t worry too much about the looks, you will probably have to use putty and sand everything before painting anyway

    I’m really impatient to see your plane finished

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #31779

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Well i broke last night, i paid for s3d. New parts photos coming later today.

    #31781

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    You’ll have to tell us what it’s like on the dark side.

    #31782

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Well, thr parts look nice and i can move my z hella fast.

    #31784

    David Walling
    Participant

    It’s nice on the dark side… we have cookies.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #31791

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Well, thr parts look nice and i can move my z hella fast.

    With your mind?

    #31796

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    No, mind controls are another 150 dollar option.

    #31803

    Bill
    Participant

    With no way to preview it to verify my mind can make a straight line…

    #31818

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Fast z

    #31819

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant
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