First Test Print – something's off…

New Home Forum Milled Printed 3D Printer -MP3DP Troubleshooting – MP3DP First Test Print – something's off…

This topic contains 13 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by  Jeff 5 months ago.

Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #89503

    Jeff
    Participant

    Did my first test print last night, I used a 20mmx20mm calibration cube off of Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1586206 and the results were sub-optimal at best.  To my totally untrained and novice eye, the Z Axis looks the best and the X and Y look off.  I’ve included some pics hoping some of you might have some ideas on where to start looking.  Thanks again for all your help!!

    #89511

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    My gut says, over extruding or extremly off temp.

     

    Try a 100mm extruder test. Steps 1-4. https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/

    #89513

    Jeff
    Participant

    Thanks Ryan. I just took a video of it in action. The bed seems to be “ratching” back and forth and I can’t figure it out. I’m thinking I may need to tighten the Y Bed Bearings a bit?  I don’t have the shorter end tightened at all (nuts are hanging loose).

    You can also physically see the springs holding the bed in place during rapid movements.  I’m guessing I have the springs too loose and need to really compress them but still leave enough room for adjustment?  I also noticed that the Y Speed Plate isn’t sliding smoothly on the smooth rods, especially during rapid movements.  It seems like the LM8UU bearings might be binding.  Do you grease the flat rods at all and if so with what?  Also, for the lead screws, what should I grease those with?

    #89525

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    The video definitely shows something wrong with your bed.

    Can you also post a picture on the bottom?

    When I attached my bed for adjustment, I would have things in this order (from the top):

    Screw head
    Bed
    washer for spring
    lock washer
    nut
    spring and gap
    washer for spring
    Y axis plate
    nut

    The top nut and lock washer keeps the screw rigid to the bed. The washers are bigger than the diameter of the spring. I don’t know what others do, but I learned this way from the wanhao forums.

    I think that’s too long on the springs too, but it’s hard to tell without touching things. Probably about half that gap is what I would expect.

    There aren’t supposed to be moving parts besides the bearings, belts and pulley. If something else is loose, then it probably shouldn’t be.

    #89526

    Jeff
    Participant

    Thanks Jeffe – I’ll have to add some washers, nuts and stuff to mine – I have none of that.  As I just manually move my bed by the Y Plate it seems to bind a little bit on the bearings or something like that.  It definitely doesn’t move as smoothly as the bearing carriage on the LR2.

    Here are some pics of the bed itself and the attachments.

    #89530

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Does the speed plate bind or rock if you move it by hand, or is all the slop in the screws?

    #89532

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    You probably also want to zip tie the wires to the speed plate. It’s not an emergency, but it will keep the bed movement fron tugging on the bed, which could make the solder joints weaker.

    #89534

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Is whatever you have on top of the aluminum bed hitting the nut on the side?

    Side note, after this gets sorted out, the nozzle is too far out and will cause issues with temps or clogs.

    #89535

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Can you also post a picture on the bottom?

    Sorry, I meant the bottom of the test print.

    #89536

    Jeff
    Participant

    The speed plate seems to bind a bit if moving by hand.  It almost feels like it is “racking” a little bit with 2 bearings on one side and 1 bearing on the other but I know that’s not an issue.  All the slop isn’t in the springs, there is some in the Y Plate movement as well – but the smooth rods are rock solid that it moves on.

    I have the wires on the heating element taped to the aluminum with thermal tape but you think I should zip tie them to the Y Plate as well – that makes sense.

    The nut sticking out of the side isn’t getting in the way – I’ve checked that a bunch of times because I thought that was an issue myself.

    The nozzle is screwed in as far as it will go, it is touching the throat.  The throat is also as close to the idler and pulley as I can get it without actually touching.  Do you suggest I add a nut to the outside of the throat before the heating element like you have in the bottom right picture of your extruder page?  I have a nut inside by the idler like another picture on your extruder page shows – I can move it to the outside.

    #89539

    Jeff
    Participant

    Here are the pic of the bottom of the test print.  In the first print the bottom is up and in the second pic it is facing forwards.

    #89546

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    The nozzle is screwed in as far as it will go, it is touching the throat. The throat is also as close to the idler and pulley as I can get it without actually touching. Do you suggest I add a nut to the outside of the throat before the heating element like you have in the bottom right picture of your extruder page? I have a nut inside by the idler like another picture on your extruder page shows – I can move it to the outside.

    If you unscrew the heat block a half a turn the nozzle will be in further, the throat will line up better on the top as well. I really would not mess with this until after the bed is figured out.

     

    The speed plate seems to bind a bit if moving by hand. It almost feels like it is “racking” a little bit with 2 bearings on one side and 1 bearing on the other but I know that’s not an issue. All the slop isn’t in the springs, there is some in the Y Plate movement as well – but the smooth rods are rock solid that it moves on.

    I would start by taking off the belt and figuring this out. It should be very solid, and smooth. The bearing blocks and plate should have Zero play. you can tighten the one side of the bearing blocks and that should lock it in, the other side is just for the bearings and is probably fine loose like you have it.

    #89549

    Bill
    Participant

    If you have the bearing holders cocked just a bit I would expect them to bind, as they would if the smooth rod wasn’t completely straight.

    #89550

    Jeff
    Participant

    Thanks Ryan, I will take the heated bed off and check the Y Plate and bearings to see if I can figure out what is hanging up.

    Edit:  Ryan = Genius!!  In my infinite stupidity I didn’t tighten down the Y_Bed_Bearing_Blocks.  Lol.  I just flipped my printer upside down and moved the carriage and could see them actually moving instead of being locked into place.  I guess in building the printer and writing instructions at the same time I kinda forgot that part!!  Hopefully tightening those up will fix the problems I am having.  I’m guessing having loose Bed_Bearings isn’t a good idea.  lol.

Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.