June 9, 2019 at 5:22 pm #102983
With a 4 foot X axis on ss tubes, one would expect some droop in the center. Can we address the droop?
What about placing a piece of flat bar with the wide side vertical directly under the Ss tubes. Then modify the roller mount so it can have an acceptable gap/space to allow the flat bar. Would that eliminate droop? Maybe notch the top of the flat bar and the bottom of the ss tubes in a few places (not the whole length) so the flat bar ‘slots into’ the tubes.
or is that too much and for the weight / complexity get thicker walled tubes?June 9, 2019 at 5:52 pm #102989
I did an experiment with mine, and I didn’t find the middle was significantly lower than the rest, and the whole surface was about 2mm +-. I haven’t surfaced my spoil board, but that’s another way to improve the flatness. Even if its bowed by a few mm, the workpiece will conform to the spoil board over those distances (wood flexes more than steel).
Also, it doesn’t matter much when you’re cutting through, and there are tricks to make carving less sensitive.June 9, 2019 at 7:34 pm #102993
How do you surface your spoil board?June 9, 2019 at 9:38 pm #102995
You make a rectangle the size of your low rider and do a pocket operation. I haven’t done it, but I imagine there are lots of good optimizations. You’d want to make sure it wasn’t going deeper than you needed. Bit size will be important. Large bits can cause accidents. Small bits can take forever, although they can move faster.
If you only need high Z accuracy for smaller projects, you can surface a smaller portion of your spoil board, or make a removable plate.June 9, 2019 at 9:39 pm #102996
How do you surface your spoil board?
Put a flat endmill in the router and generate a program that runs it line by line across the entire spoilboard.
Someone posted a program that you can enter your machine size in to and it would generate the g-code but I can’t seem to find it at the moment.June 10, 2019 at 7:24 am #103023
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