Configuring the E3D Titan with V6 hotend

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This topic contains 11 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by  Ryan 2 years, 8 months ago.

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  • #26154

    James VanDusen
    Participant

    I have completed a successful integration of the E3D Titan extruder using the V6 hotend with the MPCNC with awesome results.
    There were quite a few bumps, bruises along the way and this posting will help you evade if not eliminate if you decide to use the E3D hotends with your MPCNC as a 3D printer.

    The Titan Extruder
    This is by far the most accurate extruder out today… the MK8-10 extruder ideas are great and their direct drive design makes them easy to integrate with any device including the MPCNC, however they all have a common issue. Pathing of the filament from entry to exit.

    The Titan extruder kit basically upgrades your current extruder assembly to support ANY and ALL Filament types (of course based on the filament, you will need better hotends etc… due to heat limitations).

    Here is a rundown of what you will need:
    1. Purchase the Titan kit either direct from E3D-Online.com – btw their support rocks, they have run into all types of oddities and they make sure that you are walking away with a fully functional unit.
    2. Purchase a E3D V6 hotend – stay away from the LITE version, as its not a 100% metal hotend. You can purchase this also from E3D online or Amazon.

    You will need to mount using the MK8 mounting bracket and sleeve. I will post some photos of my assembly and possibly a video of the unit running.

    Firmware changes:
    This is by far the most critical piece. You cannot use the out of box firmware for the MPCNC that Ryan provides. You must make the following changes:

    Thermal Settings
    Open the configuration.h file using the IDE of choice.
    Go to line 229 and change the value from 11 to 5.
    #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5 //MPCNC
    The thermistor used on the V6 hotend is the ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup). This is very important for the software to properly align and keep the hotend at the correct temperature during prints.
    NOTE: I left it at 11, and I kept seeing very odd lines like as if I had Z issues.

    Run the Auto PID tune
    You will then need to open your slicer of choice, or tool that allows accessing the firmware console while connected via usb to the printer.
    Ensure that the extruder is at its coldest point (its not heated) – should be showing around 14-30c
    M303 E0 S200 C8 (click send or press enter)
    This will heat the first nozzle (E0), and cycle around the target temperature 8 times (C8) at the given temperature (S200) and return values for P I and D. An example from http://www.soliwiki.com/PID_tuning
    Plug those into the values replacing what is there on lines 291-293… mine was:
    #define DEFAULT_Kp 17.12 //MPCNC
    #define DEFAULT_Ki 1.58 //MPCNC
    #define DEFAULT_Kd 46.27 //MPCNC

    Movement Settings (steps)
    Go to line 759 (yours may vary if you added/removed lines
    Comment out the current line for the MPCNC / Ultimaker
    change it to the following:
    #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {200,200,4535.44,837} // Titan Extruder MPCNC
    This is for 200steps Stepper with 32tooth.
    NOTE: if you get the 400step/sec Stepper from E3D you will need to double the 837 to 1674

    Reduce the acceleration of the retraction – its too high for the gear ratio.. reduce from 300 to 1500 on line 764
    #define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 1500 // E acceleration in mm/s^2 for retracts

    That is it!

    Do a 100mm test using a straw… measure and cut it to 100mm
    Place it over the filament and touch the entry point of the tube entering the titan. This is generally 16mm high from the body of the extruder and is fine. We just need to measure distance here.
    Mark the end on the filament where the straw ends.
    Now heat and extrude 120mm

    Once complete, measure and verify you have indeed 20mm before entering the tube. IF NOT, then we need to tweak. With the above settings, I had a perfect measurement.

    #26157

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Cool. Pics please 🙂

    Also, I think you want to mark at 120mm and extrude 100mm, not the other way around. Then you can fine tune by actually printing. I used a model with 95% infill, and adjusted the extrusion until I got solid top layers and not solid infill.

    #26168

    James VanDusen
    Participant

    Jeffeb3
    Can you explain further your infill and top layer method?
    I haven’t figured out how to edit my post to swap the numbers also it’s not 300 it’s 3000.

    Posting photos shortly as well as video.

    I used s3d which also needs further tweaking:
    First layer at 90%
    First layer Width at 120%
    Is key to get good adherence without heated bed.

    I also tweaked the overlap on infill to roughly 10%
    I print mostly at .26 interested in your config.

    #26182

    Derek P
    Participant

    I have integrated the E3D V6 lite version with the MP3DP and it works really well with PLA. It’s not an all metal hotend and has a ptfe tube but works fine up to 210 degrees.

    #26192

    James VanDusen
    Participant

    Here are some photos of the first printed item for my TEVO Widow.
    Notice there is a significant banding effect going on here… it may be due to Z backlash or something with the temp?

    Here is a link to the video showing the printing: MPCNC Printing using E3D Titan and V6 hotend.

    #26195

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Could be rail texture coming through. I’m not actually sure what causes this.

    Try moving your mount up a hole or two and see if it improves any.

    #26196

    James VanDusen
    Participant

    That’s what I thought too… I am adjusting the layer height as well to support .254 to see if that also helps.
    I did use a 5/16 rod from Home Depot, wonder if yours that you sell is maybe better? I never had this before on my first MPCNC that I used yours with.

    #26197

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I’m not sure but I do not think it’s the rod that usually makes a wavy edge, this is texture. It has always been there to some degree but I have never chased it down.

    A good test object would be a large square shape, to try and tune it out of one side or the other. I just watched mine print and it is not an obvious problem. It could also be total frame vibrations. This one I have is on a small frame on the carpet. The next print I will move it to a solid surface and see if that changes anything.

    #26201

    James VanDusen
    Participant

    Ok Here is what I have done:

    Moved the carriage up 1 set of holes… (thank God the Titan + V6 is long).
    Test print shows little to no difference

    Moved it back down

    The layer height of .254 shows little to no difference

    Set it back to .26

    My legs are only 4″ so I am very close to the bed of the table and that table is mounted to a wall. There is little to no vibration by the way, this machine is quiet as a mouse with no vibration outside of the jerk of direction inertia but due to the table being very solid – has no effect.

    I am wondering if the coupler is the cause here… the old coupler was made up of a sprint + nut plus shorter coupler… I never saw this before.

    Is there a way we can compensate this with modifying something on the stepper for Z?

    #26202

    James VanDusen
    Participant

    Ryan

    Think we found the culprit!
    Yes indeed… as I pulled everything off… just let the extruder cool down and ran various Z lifts and lowers… I started noticing at its extreme level that the turning of the 8mm to 5mm coupler I have (I replaced the pineapple) appears to be very tight… it was before but I could always turn it. Here is the link to the coupler: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010MZ8T2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I then ran a full up and then back down to Z =0… I kept doing this and then heard the aweful errrrrr from the stepper trying to turn the long bolt but unable to do so…

    I then tried bringing it all the way up and out and sure enough I couldn’t put the bolt back in…. appears the coupler + bolt somehow got some bad spots and doesn’t smoothly run through correctly… I spun the servo + bolt on its own and notices that the coupler holding the two was not perfectly 100% straight alignment (but its the kind that allows bending) so this should not be it correct?

    Anyways, running to home depot to purchase another 5/16 7/8 coupling nut… and a new rod that is 12″ as well.

    Lets see if that fixes it.

    #26710

    James VanDusen
    Participant

    I was able to fix this by purchasing a 8mm 2mm pitch lead screw on amazon. It came with the coupler (round).
    T8 300mm 8mm Lead Screw with Coupler

    I then bored out slightly the top piece for the Z carriage assembly and inserted the coupler into the top. This prevented the restraining bolt to completely screw down, but it was through the whole assembly and allowed rigidness.
    See Pictures of the assembly with the coupler and lead screw installed.
    Firmware
    I had to update the firmware for the Z steps reducing to 800.

    I then added grease to the lead screw and ran it up and down a few times. raising it 160mm each way. This allowed pushing the grease through all the threads.

    I the lowered it and zeroed it as we normally do…
    Did a test print – Viola! perfect horizontal prints… wow in fact you cannot see the lines at all… barely at .2mm
    RECOMMEND this solution over the supplied 8mm or 5/16 solution… as its ridged enough to never be bent and is incredibly accurate.

    #26720

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    It usually means you had a bent Rod, or it was crooked in the coupler.

    Make sure to use washers, compress your springy couler, and support it. That combination can cause it’s own problems. Have a look at the FAQ’s.

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