September 9, 2017 at 9:54 am #43528
I went to a few hardware stores. Some of that unistrut is nasty some is okay. I don’t think it is worth using. What a bummer it is so cheap and already has holes in it. I’ll have another look but maybe the gold stuff is the good one, dang it now I don’t remember.September 10, 2017 at 9:17 am #43578
Most of the unistrut I get is from Menards. Though I’ve found good stuff at Lowe’s too.September 10, 2017 at 11:27 am #43583
What model of laser you have actually? More pictures? I got the SH-G350 (30 x 50 cm working area), 50w. With 40w I assume you have the “K40”, with no adjustable Z axis. This thing is bad to start with, might want to give a try with a bigger model. My machine did cost about 600 USD (1200 at first, then the seller refunded me 50% because I had problems running the machine).
I’m using this as tube holders, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:420853, there’s mountings for the K40 too. But this machine will still be crap tho.
The larger machines (basically ALL machines other then the K40) use a better and more comfortable controller, using other software (RDWorks). This is like day and night…You should never operate it above about 55% power
I think every tube (not only looking at its size or watts, just every tube even same size/wattage) is different, usually you go with an amperemeter to not wear out the tube too fast -> http://lensdigital.com/home/?p=1453
Most other points in your post just exist because you went with the K40 :(, guess you figured by now since you already posted a link to a 3k machine without all those disadvantages. You’re from the US right? Are there any legal restrictions you have to meet to operate such machine? Here in germany, me as a non-commercial person, it’s not even legal to buy/operate my machine (please don’t tell anyone! jk). The 3k machine is probably not THAT much better (cutting/engraving wise), but it’s a smoother case and maybe some security improvements (like triggers/switches that shutoff the machine when you open the lid while the machine is operating and stuff like that – nothing a chinese laser has).
I’m not advertising or affliated with, but if you need parts, I bought alot so far (spare parts) for my laser at cloudraylaser.com (through aliexpress).
@your cancer/lung concerns: you did not lasercut polycarbonate, right? Just to make sure. Yes even the correct type of acrylic smells nasty, but PC (polycarbonate) is a whole new level in smell…So for 6mm MDF I cut at 55% power at 5mm/s with air assist. I easily do the same on either cnc at 8.3mm/s but it takes two passes as I do a rough and finishing pass
That might go for wood, but don’t forget lasercut edges of acrylics are just wonderful (because clear). I did not cut acrylics with my MPCNC yet (I also dont intend to), but I doubt the edges will be so perfect.September 10, 2017 at 4:05 pm #43590
Yup a K40.
Yeah definitely a case of a little more initially gets a lot better machine. I really didn’t care my intention was to rip it apart and slap it on an MPCNC or the Lowrider anyway, maybe even a ZenXY frame. Now I think that might not be possible but I haven’t completely given up yet. I was pretty intimidated about what was actually inside of them….no big deal. Luckily it is an R&D expense for me so I hope for it to benefit all of the user here in some way or another, cheaper parts or a more versatile CNC, win win really.
No, no PolyCarb. I do have some clear acrylic, I can’t wait to try it out.September 15, 2017 at 1:00 pm #43919
The biggest advantage for an allted(tm) lasercutter I see is making everything highly adjustable. Theres a lot of people with the bigger machines (non-K40, so I’m talking about the 30x50cm and 60x40cm machines) to make everything square. Most machines I have seen so far are so much out of square, if you just pulse (testshot) theres a high chance everything is so much misaligned, the laser won’t even hit the workpiece at all.
The tube needs to be perfectly aligned and parallel to the work place. Other than that, looking at my mpcnc, its probably more then rigid enough to hold some leight weight mountings for some 1-1.5 inch mirrors. This could be a nice add-on for the mpcnc, and not a whole new/different machine.
Only problem I see, beside security measurements, are the fumes. Vaccum will be required, otherwise the whole mpcnc will be covered in a sticky mess sooner or later.September 15, 2017 at 1:10 pm #43920
This is for sure in the back of my mind. I am really just having an issue with a nice sturdy base to build on, after that we have all kinds of options. I have spent too much time looking for some cool cheap building materials other than conduit, but really conduit is so cheap and easy it might make for a great frame/base. For the motion stuff, it needs to be light, the laser is strong so it can move really fast. I think that part would be best to just use the cheap import hiwin style. I have a stack here that I will play with but they need to be re-tapped as the threaded holes are not good. That made me stop using them for a while but I am reconsidering.September 15, 2017 at 2:27 pm #43924
I think one of the coolest things about the possibility of putting a laser that powerful on a homebuilt machine is that you really need rigidity mostly to hold the weight of your equipment since you aren’t physically cutting anything with a spinning bit, unless you want pretty nutty speeds.
What’s the toughest material 40W can get through? My only experience with a laser is knowing you can slam through 1/16″ aluminum at 300-400 IPM at 3200W and 3/4″ steel a fair bit slower. I’ve been thinking about adding a laser option to my machine but I don’t know if it’s worth just having it for engraving if I can already do that with engraving bits lol.
Have you messed with 8020 or a similar aluminum extrusion at all? It obviously won’t be as cheap is conduit but being modular you might be able to make a pretty damn rigid machine a lot easier. Need the rigidity and power to have those crazy rapids speeds. Trumpf laser at work rapids at something like 1000 IPM, can’t remember off the top of my head but I flinched the first few times I saw it lol.September 15, 2017 at 6:49 pm #43936
A lot of rigidity is need for the accelerations as well. Moving fast means starting and stopping fast without ringing or shaking it apart.
So far I can do 1 pass pretty easily through 6mm MDF at about 5mm/s with air assist. I don;t think it can go anyfurther in MDF in a single pass, but I haven’t tried. Not sure about other stuff yet.
I’m not a fan of 80/20, I mean it is awesome and does make things really easy but it is really expensive and you have to have it shipped which costs more than the material sometimes. Maybe if I could get it locally. I did submit a quote for my own die for some custom extrusions this morning though….hmmm.
The craziest part of the laser is it can be any size, seems crazy that these things are being sold in a giant metal box and the work space is 200x250mm, I took mine straight apart and have 350×290 now but see no reason to stop there. Actually seems to be easier to align the larger it is.April 15, 2019 at 8:05 am #97026
“Safety Squints”? “Chooch”?? I think I’ve come across another AVE/BOLTR fan! 😀April 15, 2019 at 10:13 am #97038
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.