- November 17, 2017 at 7:00 am #47983
I have my components bundle arriving today, thank you for the fast shipping!
I am thinking size now and the docs I have read (https://www.v1engineering.com/assembly/machine-size/) are not exactly as clear as I would like.
When you talk about “size” are you talking about the work area or you talking about the actual physical size?
I will be using this exclusively for Milling and Routing type functions. I want this as rigid as possible BUT the kit I just purchased talks about the GT2 is long enough to give a total of 48″ of work area (I am assuming this is work area as it is referred to as “travel”).
If I understand correctly I can build a machine with a 24″ x 24″ work area which is physically 34.4″ x 34.4″ from the kit. Is this correct?
I know the reference machine is only 30″ squared physically (as in not work area). Will increasing the x and y size by 4.4 inches reduce the ability to be an effective milling and routing machine? I assume if this does effect the performance I can add mid-span supports? Another way to word this; does 34.4″ x 34.4″ physical size mean you recommend mid-span supports?
Lastly, the materials I will be cutting are aluminum and thin 4130 sheet (22 gauge or .035). Maybe hard woods like maple, phnolic and teflon.
–jbNovember 17, 2017 at 7:32 am #47984When you talk about “size” are you talking about the work area or you talking about the actual physical size?
Outer dimensions.I will be using this exclusively for Milling and Routing type functions. I want this as rigid as possible BUT the kit I just purchased talks about the GT2 is long enough to give a total of 48″ of work area (I am assuming this is work area as it is referred to as “travel”). If I understand correctly I can build a machine with a 24″ x 24″ work area which is physically 34.4″ x 34.4″ from the kit. Is this correct?GT2 Belt enough for any combination of 48″ of X and Y axis length
Again Outer dimensions.I know the reference machine is only 30″ squared physically (as in not work area). Will increasing the x and y size by 4.4 inches reduce the ability to be an effective milling and routing machine? I assume if this does effect the performance I can add mid-span supports? Another way to word this; does 34.4″ x 34.4″ physical size mean you recommend mid-span supports?
The reference is 22.5″ the calculator default, https://www.v1engineering.com/assembly/conduit-rails-tubes-pipes/. This leads into your next question.Lastly, the materials I will be cutting are aluminum and thin 4130 sheet (22 gauge or .035). Maybe hard woods like maple, phnolic and teflon.
If you want to cut Steel, stretching the machine to its limits should not be the goal. As far as I know the machine has only cut steel with a plasma cutter. It will cost you a few dollars in conduit and maybe an hour to resize your machine. I suggest you start very small to see if you can cut steel, and you will be thankful for a small machine when cutting aluminum.
How much CAM experience do you have?November 17, 2017 at 8:35 am #47986The reference is 22.5″ the calculator default, https://www.v1engineering.com/assembly/conduit-rails-tubes-pipes/. This leads into your next question.…How much CAM experience do you have?
Ok, so we are talking about a 12″ x 12″ work area with the kit as sold. Makes sense now.
I wouldn’t claim expert but I am not a new arrival from the end of a turnip truck either. I’ve been driving around a Sieg X3 with a CNCFusion premimum ballscrew kit and a Sherline PN3800 for a 4th axis since 2010. I’m a LinuxCNC guy and Fusion 360 with the new 4 and 5 axis milling functions in the pro version rounds out my workshop.
No, this experiment is to have a little machine to chop small parts to see wear and tear on the 3D printed parts themselves. I couldn’t really care how small it is as I have lots of tiny parts to produce. I really have no intentions to abuse this machine either but to use it daily and watch the design age with use.
That is the real reason to be honest, watching it age with use. If it turns out a few small parts that are actually usable along the way then I’m as happy as a clam 🙂
–jbNovember 17, 2017 at 8:47 am #47991
Hopefully you don’t see any wear on the plastic parts. I have rotated and replaced the conduit many many times with no visible plastic wear.
It can be made bid, that is why I asked if you have CAM experience, There are a few made 4’x4′ but you really need to know what the heck you are doing with CAM to make that usable. I still suggest you start small to learn the machine, the tiny super rigid machines you are using now are very very forgiving in the CAM area, those will stall a motor way before you flex the machine. The MPCNC is the opposite, once you get a handle on the differences you can go larger.November 18, 2017 at 1:47 pm #48040
Maybe you should rethink your shipping company. Not only was it repeatedly dropped it is soaking wet. It was delivered and the guy didn’t ring the bell and he ran. All but two of the plastic bags have burst from the impact inside. These is a reason USPS is losing money. Given free shipping with USPS or $50 with FedEx or UPS I would have paid for the better service…
Attachments:November 18, 2017 at 2:37 pm #48044
That is insane. Let me know if you find any damage, it is insured. I don’t think any of it could actually get too bad from some water though. You can file a complaint against your local carrier though, I have had to, one was not scanning the shipping labels he just let the main branch do it so there was no web tracking information until delivered you had to call and check on each number.
As for shipping, I watch all the videos, each company has plenty of horror stories. Luckily of the thousands of boxes I ship through USPS each year I have only had a 4-5 issues. Unfortunately for me it isn’t actually about the shipping price, the other companies don’t make bulk shipping and pricing easy for my sized company.November 18, 2017 at 3:35 pm #48045
It seems to be ok. The water in the bearings might be an issue but I think the rest is ok. I can dry the bearings. One stepper has the black paint scratched off it but that’s no biggie.
–jbNovember 18, 2017 at 4:57 pm #48048
FWIW, from the customer side, signing up for USPS’s informed delivery service can be very helpful. I get texts and emails informing me of each package coming my way every time it is scanned, even if I don’t know something is being shipped to me, and I get scanned jpgs of every letter-sized piece of mail when it should be delivered, too. From my experience here, USPS is far and away more reliable for me than UPS or FedEx both in terms of delivery reliability and proper handling. But as Ryan said, everyone has horror stories.November 18, 2017 at 6:07 pm #48049FWIW, from the customer side, signing up for USPS’s informed delivery service can be very helpful. I get texts and emails informing me of each package coming my way every time it is scanned, even if I don’t know something is being shipped to me, and I get scanned jpgs of every letter-sized piece of mail when it should be delivered, too. From my experience here, USPS is far and away more reliable for me than UPS or FedEx both in terms of delivery reliability and proper handling. But as Ryan said, everyone has horror stories.
Interesting, never had somebody defend the USPS to me before.
People thought I was nuts back in 2004 when I had Internet but no cable TV. Next is a sign with my street number on it and no mailbox.
It looks like my little CNC will survive though so I’m not going to go “postal” over this :-p
–jbNovember 19, 2017 at 6:20 am #48051
+1 for informed delivery. I don’t have any problems with any of them here. But if for some reason they don’t leave the package, my local USPS office is five minutes away, and the ups and FedEx offices are almost an hour away.
Actually, I can’t remember the last time I got a FedEx package.
Also, ups has started advertising tailor Swift on their vans, so… Fail?
The USPS guy sometimes takes his lunch breaks in front of my house though, so maybe I get special treatment.November 19, 2017 at 8:57 am #48059
I have to look into the informed delivery, I have that for the other three, never thought about USPS. My DHL and FedEX from China comes in beat all to hell, I guesses it is from the poor boxes and fast delivery times, but most of my boxes come in sort of round even when they leave them at the door they have never left them label side up. On it’s end, upside down all fair game…
I have a friend that has worked at UPS forever, and I usually take my deliveries into the back of the post office. I really wish they both had different handling policies. They are very rough with them, FedEx is just way too expensive, I have never shipped with them other than overnighting a few docs for a previous company.
Shipping is a tough one one of my biggest concerns getting started. A previous company lost a whole ton of money with a poor shipping decision early on, they are the reason I don’t pre-sell and why I use USPS.November 21, 2017 at 1:08 pm #48216
I just dropped an order for the missing bearings and bolts from Amazon. It was easier to get them tomorrow than to wait for you to send them and file whatever paperwork with the USPS.
I was missing 18 bearings and 17 5/16ths-18 x 1.25 inches bolts and 13 nylon lock nuts. I counted the rest and it appears that everything else is in place.
My kids have dubbed this machine the “Missing Parts” CNC after my foul mouth ran on yesterday disturbing their peace.
–jbNovember 22, 2017 at 9:47 am #48286
Are you going to file the claim and get your money, or should I and send a refund when it gets here. I don’t really like the idea of them thrashing my package and not paying.November 22, 2017 at 10:30 am #48292
Weird that only the solid gold screws were missing…November 22, 2017 at 11:05 am #48295
HAHA, exactly.November 22, 2017 at 12:25 pm #48299
Is it like $5 worth of hardware? I would lose money even trying to fill out the form :-\
Instead I will cost them much more dearly, I will never use their services again. I will take down my mailbox at my new house and be done with them.
So far the system is going together very nicely. I would like to commend you on the printed stuff. I really hold in high regard those engineers like yourself who produce 3D models that print so perfectly. It really is an art form and I have enjoyed this build so far.
–jbNovember 22, 2017 at 12:27 pm #48300
Thanks for the kind words. The design comes from my hate of support material!November 22, 2017 at 12:39 pm #48304
I just received my parts by USPS, box is in Good Shape !
1 user thanked author for this post.November 22, 2017 at 9:35 pm #48339
Sweet!January 1, 2018 at 6:02 am #50306
First post here, though I’ve been lurking for over a year. Finally getting around to having the parts lined up. Got a box from Vicious 1 a little while back (happily in good shape), plan on using an old RAMBO pulled from my Rostock delta when I replaced it with a Duet, and will be printing the parts.
I’m glad I came across this thread, as I had the same question. My next question is still regarding tube length, as in, can it extend beyond the XY junctions a bit? As a first run, I was tempted to use conduit (USA EMT). However, if I then decided to make the build larger, or more rigid, I’d want to go with the 1″ SS, which would entail printing all new parts. For the $30-50 in new filament (not to mention the time), I could have spent not much more and just bought stainless to begin with.
So, if I buy stainless for a 24″x36″ (outside) build, can I have 3-6″ or so projecting beyond each XY junction for an initial build in the 24×24 (outside) range? Speedy Metals would cost me $54 shipped for a 24×24, and $61 for 24×36 build, so for future “expansion” it’s hard to argue with only $7 more, unless there are mechanical or operational issues with this idea.
Side note: got an email from Speedy saying they’re having an 18% off sale Jan 1-8, no coupon needed. I put some parts in a basket up to the point of needing to enter payment info, but didn’t see any discount from when I had checked a few weeks ago. It’s possible the discount is taken off at the very last point before purchasing.
Thanks!January 1, 2018 at 7:07 am #50308
Yea, that shouldn’t be an issue. Just don’t get snagged on the tubes! My mpcnc is conduit, and I’ve done aluminum on it. Slowly.. Stainless should really stiffen it up. A lot of us route cables through the tubes, so you’ll need to make sure your wiring is long enough for the longer tubes.January 1, 2018 at 8:02 am #50310
Thanks, Barry. I’d prefer to spend $8 on conduit to start with, but I’d likely kick myself later. I’m curious if there’s a size “breaking point” that gives a clearer answer like, “below this frame size, stainless doesn’t really offer any benefit, but above this size, go stainless if you can.”
Aluminum is an eventual goal, as I’m interested in making molds for silicone casting. These would be relatively small (cast part is 8x4x2″). I think I’ll try some plastics, first, though, for the molds.January 1, 2018 at 8:37 am #50312
I’m not sure the rigidity is the main reason SS builds are better. SS is also more accurately made and has a better longer lasting surface finish. Accuracy in the rails means more equal bearing tension and less overall slop.
The shorter and smaller you build it really really makes a difference no matter what the rails. Half any length is at least twice as rigid. In saying that less rigid just really means either slow it down or have more precise CAM, rigidity just equals ease of use.
I like the idea of a rigidity calc but I am not sure how to approach it, most of us really only fight with z axis length as the rest is usually more rigid. On top of that well executed CAM has much less strain on the system than poorly executed CAM.
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