CarbonX filament?

New Home Forum LowRider Advice – LowRider CarbonX filament?

This topic contains 5 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  Greg 4 weeks, 1 day ago.

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  • #97737

    Duncan Meyer
    Participant

    Hi,
    There are a number of fittings (like rudder bushings, gear leg attachm fittings and so on) which I was going to fabricate out of aluminium or other metal.  But I’ve just come across CarbonX filament.  Anyone heard of it?  Used it?

     

    Here’s a link to it…

    #97742

    Barry
    Participant

    Carbon “reinforced” filament is usually weaker than straight filament.  Without the continuous fibers there’s no point to having it in the plastic.  If you do try it, wear gloves when handling it, I’ve heard folks getting the fibers stuck in their fingers, and since they’re tiny slivers, it takes a week or so to wear that layer of skin off to get them out.  I also wouldn’t use printed parts anywhere near critical aircraft components.  Keep the printed stuff to “fancyfy” the cockpit gauges maybe.

     

    I know the plane you’re building falls under “sport”, so anything, within reason, goes, but still, printed parts on a plane give me the heeby jeebies.

    • This reply was modified 1 month ago by  Barry.
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    #97744

    Aaryn
    Participant

    If you want to try a really strong filament try t-glase pronounced t glass. It is a PETT filament. Not cheap. In my experience it is the strongest 3D printed filament I have worked with. Not sure if it would be a good idea for you or not.

    #97755

    Tim Jarosz
    Participant

    Also, Carbon reinforced filament erodes the print nozzle opening. That’s why they make hardened steel nozzles to counteract the abrasive nature of reinforced and other “augmented” filaments. There’s a good explanation here: https://www.matterhackers.com/store/printer-accessories/e3d-v6-extra-nozzle-hardened-steel-1.75mm-x-0.25mm

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #97763

    Barry
    Participant

    Just to throw some more info here, once you move to a hardened steel nozzle, you’ll probably need to adjust all your print temps.  The steel doesn’t transfer heat the same as the brass nozzles, so it prints differently.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #97819

    Greg
    Participant

    I’ve printed with carbon fiber filament.. maybe not the exact one you mention.

    I found the filament chunks required a larger nozzle to avoid clogging.. I think I just went up to 0.5.  Just used a cheap brass nozzle and printed a roll of it didn’t seem to have any issues.

    Results were objects that were much stronger, lightweight and rigid than PLA.   However with the rigidity came brittleness.. there was zero flex to them.

    If your printer can handle the temps, I would look at a poly-carbonate blend filament (PC+) there is also POM filament which I haven’t printed with but POM is the material used in shower door rollers.

    That said, I wouldn’t use any 3d printed material in any safety critical part of anything like an airplane.

     

     

    • This reply was modified 4 weeks, 1 day ago by  Greg.
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