Canuck MP3DP

This topic contains 112 replies, has 9 voices, and was last updated by  Ryan 1 year, 5 months ago.

Viewing 23 posts - 91 through 113 (of 113 total)
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  • #48787

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Okay that does sound like there is too much back pressure then. Fingers crossed.

    #48788

    Ralph
    Participant

    Okay that does sound like there is too much back pressure then. Fingers crossed.

    Your referring to the Fan airflow?

    #48790

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Yes

    #48804

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Man, i really didnt like that part fan when i tired it. It blows air on the block, causing all sorts of issues. I had to build my own. And havent had an issue. With pei for pursa and the blt touch i dont even worry about that printer anymore.

    #48918

    Ralph
    Participant

    OK, removed both touch and Fan mounts, readjusted to make sure that the gears where aligned and tested again receiving the same results….so I was going to repeat the entire assembly again ….. remove heat break replace the PTE tube and so on. While disassembling again I noticed something ….the brass fitting on the bottom right of the plastic body (looking from the back) was split and the flange on one side was missing (See pics…). I this correct???? Also I do recall seem some brass shavings on the bed when the issue first started on Sept. Looked at the pictures in the assembly manual and they do not show the back of it, so I can’t confirm if this is by design or if the fitting is indeed screwed.

    #48931

    Barry
    Participant

    As long as screws still thread through it, it’s probably okay.  It does look like a too big of a screw was tried to be used though, so part of the flange broke off.

    #48938

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Or too short of a screw and it didn’t go in far enough. That kit comes with so many screws it is easy to “screw” it up….

    #48939

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That can’t be your problem though.

    Do you have another filament to try maybe you just have a bad batch or something. I have not had any issues.

    #48977

    Ralph
    Participant

    Been down that road….tried at least 4 different PLA’s (two brands Hatchbox and Spool3d which I’ve been using on the MP3DP and my AnyCubic Mega….even order new Spool3d thinking that I had a bad batch).  As for the screws I’m 100% sure that I’ve used the correct ones. Nothing has changed regarding the firmware as far as I can recall. This is very confusing because it was printing so well for at least 60 hours if not more before the first failed print back in Sept. showed up.  Even after the most recent rebuild when I replaced the Heat Break it printed for about 10 hours (1st print 1.25 hrs, 2nd print 4.5 hrs third print 5 hours in it fails) and then boom the issue creeps up again. At this point it skips right off the bat when I manually extrude using the LCD control at various temps (195 to 225).

    This is what I’ve done so far ( I think I could have replaced the entire extruder already):

    1. Replaced gears
    2. Replaced Driver
    3. Replaced Stepper
    4. Replace Thermister
    5. Replace Heat Break
    6. Replaced PTFE (it is the right length and cut square)
    7. Replaced Heat Sync Fan
    8. Adjust print settings as suggested
    9. Checked & double checked Voltage on driver
    10. Tried multiple PLA’s
    11. Checked all connections (heater, thermister, stepper…)

     

     

     

     

    #48998

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Dang this is odd. The 100mm test on the cold side is dead on? No mouse bite on the filament? Too loose or too tight on the tensioner? Sorry I am really just guessing maybe you will catch something you haven’t checked.

    You got your throat higher into the body? Do you want to return it and get an mk8 instead?

    Mine print 24/7/365, Hatchbox pla, 196C, 30-35mm/s, .8mm retract.

    Maybe see if they suggest different acceleration of something than we are using. I can not think of why it would last so long then instantly not work.

    #49698

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I think I found the issue, I “rebuilt” mine and it worked fine for a while, then same as yours. Same issue. Turns out the 4 long screws on the aluminum shroud were too tight. The aluminum expands as it is printing and the stepper stops working correctly. Loosen them up (pretty loose) and bam works perfect again.

    I would get about 20-30 minutes of print time and than I could here and see it skipping steps. Power it down pull out the filament and you could feel the extruder was hard to turn. So maybe we have our toothed gears out too far or whatever but I need it to print right now so I just loosened up the screws. I will look into it some more in a few days, I need to catch up on prints right now though.

    #49699

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Interesting. Do you guys still like the titan head for printing? (maybe I should wait until this gets a little bit in the past before asking).

    #49702

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    The end all be all, nahhhh, but components better than the MK8, yup. I really wish they would not have turned the fan and they really missed the obvious heat transfer spot from the top of the heat block to the bottom of the heatsink. I am going to stuff a little piece of the heat shield in there and turn down the fan speed on the heatsink fan. I do like being able to see/clean the extruder gear with no disassembly. With the recent issue that came in handy. I have used this one to print on my black and blue MPCNC for a long time, it was used to print most of the dewalt mounts for a while.

    #49769

    Ralph
    Participant

    I think I found the issue, I “rebuilt” mine and it worked fine for a while, then same as yours. Same issue. Turns out the 4 long screws on the aluminum shroud were too tight. The aluminum expands as it is printing and the stepper stops working correctly. Loosen them up (pretty loose) and bam works perfect again. I would get about 20-30 minutes of print time and than I could here and see it skipping steps. Power it down pull out the filament and you could feel the extruder was hard to turn. So maybe we have our toothed gears out too far or whatever but I need it to print right now so I just loosened up the screws. I will look into it some more in a few days, I need to catch up on prints right now though.

    Thanks for letting me me know. I have a Titan V6 sitting in the box (was going to give up on the Areo) but I’ll maybe give it another go.  When you say “pretty loose”…how loose …finger tighten only or more?  After loosening yours are you able to print for long periods? Another question….I do have a mk8 purchased from here for my mpcnc….how well does it perform on thin wall prints (like the ones posted here  here and here …..outline/perimeters is 1 except for the first 1mm? The Titan Areo printed really good and I had no complaints up until this issue came up and still no resolution. Spent hours looking for a fix….found a few on the e3d forum but no real common cause or fix for the issue.

     

     

     

    #49770

    Ralph
    Participant

    Interesting. Do you guys still like the titan head for printing? (maybe I should wait until this gets a little bit in the past before asking).

    Up until this issue showed up.

    #49771

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    It is actually pretty easy to set, start printing something you don’t care about and when the issue shows up you can loosen the bolts a bit until it goes away. 3 are really easy to get to and the one I was still able to adjust while it was printing without stopping it.

    As for thin walls, I feel a 0.4 is the same on any extruder. It probably has more to do with print fans and slicers on something thin. I honestly have two printers right now printing perfect, one with a titan aero and one with my microswiss mk8, the other 3 need to have the lm8uu bearings replaced so they have a little texture.

    #49772

    Ryan
    Keymaster
    #49975

    Ralph
    Participant

    Many thanks Ryan…that appears to have been the issue. I adjusted the bolts while printing until the clicking stopped and now my Canuck MP3DP has come to life again, printing perfectly with great results 🙂 . I held back on posting this after about 15 plus hours of pretty much constant printing with no extruder issues.

    I have one other question I’ve bean meaning to ask. Is thee a way to turn of the extruder heat sync fan after a print is complete and the hot end has cooled down?

    Thank you again and merry Christmas!

    #49980

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Awesome!

     

    I have one other question I’ve bean meaning to ask. Is thee a way to turn of the extruder heat sync fan after a print is complete and the hot end has cooled down?

    If you are using the rambo or mini rambo you can plug it into fan port 2 and sync it to hot end temps and control max speed as well. Mine is set to 50C and 140 speed.

    #50009

    Ralph
    Participant

    Awesome!

    I have one other question I’ve bean meaning to ask. Is thee a way to turn of the extruder heat sync fan after a print is complete and the hot end has cooled down?

    If you are using the rambo or mini rambo you can plug it into fan port 2 and sync it to hot end temps and control max speed as well. Mine is set to 50C and 140 speed.

    Unfortunately I’m using the ramps purchased from here …I’m guessing this is not an option?

    #50011

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    On the ramps if you are not using a heated bed it is easy you can use that mosfet to drive the second fan, other than that you would need to add one to a separate pin.  Not impossible but it takes work. My ramps run there fans 24/7, I only just recently tried the fan thing on the newest 3d printer I built.

    #57957

    Ralph
    Participant

    My new Canuck MP3DP’s home …

    Controlled environment:

    Exhaust fans with thermostat.

    pi running octlprint with temp monitor.

    3 60 mm exhaust fans

    Main power button and fan override switch.

     

    #57969

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Dang, that is some serious sci-fi style there. Nice.

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