Canuck MP3DP

This topic contains 112 replies, has 9 voices, and was last updated by  Ryan 1 year, 3 months ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 31 through 60 (of 113 total)
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  • #38476

    Ralph
    Participant

    I just got all the wiring done and I’m trying to get the LCD to work. When I turn on the power the LCD turns on and I get the Marlin logo/version. The it goes to the home screen and the X, Y & Z letter switch back and forth from the axis letter to a question mark. Also when I turn the knob nothing happens. Any Ideas? I’ve attached a short video but you need to stand on your head to watch.

    Attachments:
    1. IMG_1050.mov
    #38495

    Jakob A
    Participant

    You have to push it ?

    #38499

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    looks good so far.

    Spinning the knob on that screen does as it should and only adjust the feedrate.

    Push it in and the menu comes up.

    #38500

    Ralph
    Participant

    Oh Crap…it must be my case print…I can’t push it…duh!

    #38512

    Ralph
    Participant

    Oh Crap…it must me my case print…I can’t push it…duh!

    Works now…Just needed to pull the knob up a bit.

    #38578

    Ralph
    Participant

    My extruder stepper is turning the wrong way…I assume I just reverse the connect on the board….the red wire is on the same pin as all the other steppers.

    #38585

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Yup, just make sure you are completely powered down an unplugged first.

    #38606

    Ralph
    Participant

    So I’m trying to calibrate the extruder as per the Aero Titan documentation. I’ve updated the firmware with E steps set to #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 200, 200, 837, 200 }. I’m only getting about 15mm when I select 100 from Repetier host manual control. I’m assuming that the 100 on the extruder button in Repetier Host is 100mm. Any ideas? Stepper specs attached as well.

    Firmware Calibration
    Because Titan uses a known gearing ratio and a consistently machined drive gear, we can offer a fairly accurate steps / mm set-point.

    Steps per Unit (Extruder) = Motor Steps * Micro-stepping * Gear Ratio / (Hobb Diameter * Pi)
    Standard motor steps / rev = 400 for the new style motor or 200 for the old style motor (Refer to assembly steps if unsure which motor you have).
    Standard micro-stepping = 16x
    Gear Ratio = 3
    Hobb Diameter (Effective) = 7.3
    400 * 16 * 3 / (7.3 * 3.142) = 837
    To test your value, mark the filament 120mm from the extruder then extrude 100mm slowly. If you do not measure 20mm after extrusion has finished, you may need to tweak this value.

    Nema17 14N-cm stepper motor with 24mm D shaft for grub screw.

    These stepper motors are smaller NEMA17 Stepper Motors for use on your extruder or printer axes. Being only 25mm long but still producing 21N-cm of torque these motors make an excellent choice for use on your extruder. Lighter and shorter than the standard motors, but producing nearly as much torque. Hybrid.

    Property Value
    Manufacturer Motech
    Model No. 1701HSM140
    Holding Torque 14.7 N-cm
    Resistance/Phase 1.9
    Inductance/Phase 2.0
    Stepping Angle 0.9°
    Rated Current 1.4A
    Size 25mm

    #38608

    Ralph
    Participant

    So I’m trying to calibrate the extruder as per the Aero Titan documentation. I’ve updated the firmware with E steps set to #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 200, 200, 837, 200 }. I’m only getting about 15mm when I select 100 from Repetier host manual control. I’m assuming that the 100 on the extruder button in Repetier Host is 100mm. Any ideas? Stepper specs attached as well.

    Firmware Calibration
    Because Titan uses a known gearing ratio and a consistently machined drive gear, we can offer a fairly accurate steps / mm set-point.

    Steps per Unit (Extruder) = Motor Steps * Micro-stepping * Gear Ratio / (Hobb Diameter * Pi)
    Standard motor steps / rev = 400 for the new style motor or 200 for the old style motor (Refer to assembly steps if unsure which motor you have).
    Standard micro-stepping = 16x
    Gear Ratio = 3
    Hobb Diameter (Effective) = 7.3
    <span class=”d4pbbc-underline” style=”text-decoration: underline;”><strong class=”d4pbbc-bold”>400 * 16 * 3 / (7.3 * 3.142) = 837</span>
    To test your value, mark the filament 120mm from the extruder then extrude 100mm slowly. If you do not measure 20mm after extrusion has finished, you may need to tweak this value.

    Nema17 14N-cm stepper motor with 24mm D shaft for grub screw.

    These stepper motors are smaller NEMA17 Stepper Motors for use on your extruder or printer axes. Being only 25mm long but still producing 21N-cm of torque these motors make an excellent choice for use on your extruder. Lighter and shorter than the standard motors, but producing nearly as much torque. Hybrid.

    Property Value
    Manufacturer Motech
    Model No. 1701HSM140
    Holding Torque 14.7 N-cm
    Resistance/Phase 1.9
    Inductance/Phase 2.0
    Stepping Angle 0.9°
    Rated Current 1.4A
    Size 25mm

    I think I just realized what my issue is here. I applied the extruder steps to the Z stepper.

    #38609

    Jakob A
    Participant

    Edit: oops you found it 😀
    I think you updated the wrong value 🙂 E steps is the last value

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #38612

    Ralph
    Participant

    OK I changed the #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 200, 200, 788, 837 }….but I’m still only getting 51mm when I extrude 100 via Repetier host.

    Gcode for extrusion …N300 G1 E100 F120*42

    #38616

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    How fast are you extruding? I wasnt able to do the test in repetier because it was extruding to fast.

    #38617

    Ralph
    Participant

    How fast are you extruding? I wasnt able to do the test in repetier because it was extruding to fast.

    I’m not sure….In the Printer Settings/Printer tab it has 2/20 [mm/s]. I’m just extruding via the extruder “Slower” button on the “Manual Control” tab.

    #38618

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    If your using ramps and 32nd stepping you need to double the steps

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #38619

    Ralph
    Participant

    If your using ramps and 32nd stepping you need to double the steps

    Yeah…that makes sense…recaclulated 400 * 32 * 3 / (7.3 * 3.142) = 1674.180131318504. Updated to 1674.Retested and now I get 102.5mm. Will try and adjust/fine tune or is this close enough?

    #38625

    Ralph
    Participant
    If your using ramps and 32nd stepping you need to double the steps

    <span class=”et_quote_sign”></span>

    Yeah…that makes sense…recaclulated 400 * 32 * 3 / (7.3 * 3.142) = 1674.180131318504. Updated to 1674.Retested and now I get 102.5mm. Will try and adjust/fine tune or is this close enough?

    Fine tuned to 100.03mm …adjusted from 1674 to 1630.

    #38644

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Nice, a few mm over 100mm test is great. I have seen some really bad ones in the past.

    #38741

    Ralph
    Participant

    So the first print on my MP3DP is done. I could not use the dewalt mount test print gcode that Ryan posted for the MP3DP on the Joker thread as request by me because I still need to do something about the extruder mount which looses 15 mm on the Y axis. SO I printed the #D Benchy.

    #38747

    Barry
    Participant

    You should be able to print the benchy without supports. That’s part of the benchmark, testing bridges. Looks pretty good though!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #39501

    Ralph
    Participant

    Hi…..I have one lead screw that has some play in the lead screw nut. See the video …it’s the one on the right. Is this to much play and should I replace it? The left one has none what so ever.

    #39504

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That means your x axis isn’t level.

    Kind of hard to put into a description. Measure both sides from the same point to the top of the motor mount, make this number as equal as you can. level the bed to this x axis the first time.

    What you have going on is your left (motor side) is higher so it is supporting the whole axis and the other side is floating.

    Not by very much you are close, this is just one of those things you only usually figure out after it is really far out of whack.

    #39592

    Ralph
    Participant

    Thank Ryan. I have been performing the measurements from the motor mount to the same point on the each side almost every time I level the bed. The play on the right side is consistent, even when the x carriage is all the way to the right. I’m not sure if it effects the print quality as I’m still trying to fine tune and make a good S3D profile. Could this cause print quality issues?

    #39596

    Ralph
    Participant

    I’m having some issues with printing on PEI. The prints are sticking way to much. I’ve adjusted the bed height also by raising the head off the bed using a sheet a paper and still have the prints stick to much.

    #39604

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Let the PEI cool and the parts should come off easier. Over time it gets better. I use an old large kitchen knife and just whack it under a corner and they pop right off.

    #39605

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I’m not sure we are talking about the same thing with the leveling. You should only ever have to level everything one time, then fine tune your offset with the set screw. level the x gantry with the motor mounts, this is the biggest part. Then you level the bed to the nozzle. one time and it should stay for months and months unless you move your printer.

    If your prints are fine then they are fine, no big deal. If you see an issue you would know where to look.

    #39611

    Ralph
    Participant

    No levelling is required even when I have to wrench the print of the PEI? Doesn’t that throw the bed off level? With my PEI sticking so darn hard, I’m concerned of bending or breaking something. This is why I’m levelling between prints. Maybe my head is to close to the bed. On my last print which was a 20mm box I ended up scratching my PEI when my metal spatula slipped while I was trying to get it under the corner of the print. Knocking it on the conrners wont do the trick ether. I’m obviously done something wrong.
    As for the play on the right lead screw, it’s stil there and I know my x axis is definitely level. I took multiple measurements from the top of the motor mount to the bottom of the brass lead screw nut and it is spot on.

    #39615

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Do you have a first layer photo?

    #39658

    Ralph
    Participant

    Do you have a first layer photo?

    Nope, it’s hard to get a good pic of the first layer because of the cooling fan shroud. I raised the head by .2 and printed the same print (20×20) cube. This print did come of the PEI (and I always let it cool so the bed is at room temp) a bit better but did not pop off. I had to use the spatula again to get it off. The good news is that the cube was almost perfect 20.2 x20.2 and square. Here’s a video if this print, if u zoom in u can see the first layer.

    #39660

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Yeah, not what i expected to see. Pei sticks really good.

    #39663

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    You can sand the surface and it sticks less, even a little bit using the scrubby side of a sponge works pretty well.

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