Burly Revisions

This topic contains 126 replies, has 36 voices, and was last updated by  Ryan 2 days, 12 hours ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 91 through 120 (of 127 total)
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  • #72789

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I have no idea where I got the little inch pound wrench I have but the scale was easier to read on the NM side. I now see a need for a digital torque wrench, just have a select-able scale for instant conversions. Free-million dollar idea, one wrench every scale.

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    #72805

    Barry
    Participant

    I have no idea where I got the little inch pound wrench I have but the scale was easier to read on the NM side. I now see a need for a digital torque wrench, just have a select-able scale for instant conversions. Free-million dollar idea, one wrench every scale.

    I used to have to torque a couple nuts that were in the hundreds of foot pounds.  I could do a chin up on the torque wrench and it wouldn’t break.  I’d pull myself up, then one of the other guys on my load crew would pull me down by the belt to make it click.  QA loved seeing that…  ?

    #72806

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    One of the first times I came across large torque was the axle nuts on a VW bug. The rear ones where way up there. I had a breaker bar with a 4′ pipe on it. If you didn’t get it tight you would spin off the splines of the rear drums when you tried to put your foot on the gas. I replaced many many of them. Actually first time I ever saw a dial indicator was the thrust bearing shims on the flywheel. I rebuilt the engine but had to take it in to get that torqued and shimmed. Dam those bugs taught me a lot (I had 4-5 of them).

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #72823

    Kevin Lease
    Participant

    On the Bill of Material printed parts section for mpcnc, it lists Gantry_Spacer_*_Burly and some other parts with Burly suffix added.  On the thingiverse files for mpcnc c burly it lists most of the burly files with Burly suffix but the gantry spacer is named Gantry_Spacer_C without burly added.

     

    #72826

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Fixed, thanks.

    #72830

    Josh
    Participant

    I used to have to torque a couple nuts that were in the hundreds of foot pounds.  I could do a chin up on the torque wrench and it wouldn’t break.  I’d pull myself up, then one of the other guys on my load crew would pull me down by the belt to make it click.  QA loved seeing that

     

    We were trying to break a bolt loose on a hydraulic cylinder to a large boom lift.  My friend was hanging off a 1″ breaker bar with a 6′ cheater about 2′ off the ground, the socket broke and the pipe hit him square on the head!  He woke up asking about his kitty.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #72897

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Revised the 660 mount a bit, nothing fancy just more….Burly. I am already getting tired of that, I liked “525” better.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:944952

    IMG_20181021_1839002

    #72954

    77railer
    Participant

    Ryan, thank you for all the work you put into these things. I am just getting started with researching and like the look of the new Burly parts. I have seen people printing all different sizes of machines. In your opinion, what is the perfect size as far as balance between usability and detail in prints. Id like to go as big as possible without loosing quality….ya I guess that is what Im saying 🙂 Help 🙂

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    #72981

    Brandon
    Participant

    Ryan, Did you remove part of the 660 and did it make it easier to change the bit?  What do I need to order if so?

    Getting close to having the new Dewalt 660 mount printed:

    2018-10-22-16.05.28

    #72983

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    In your opinion, what is the perfect size as far as balance between usability and detail in prints. Id like to go as big as possible without loosing quality….ya I guess that is what Im saying ? Help ?

    Totally depends on what you make. But the size calculator defaults are a good place to start.

     

    Getting close to having the new Dewalt 660 mount printed:

    ??? Those are the old parts. As for the 660, Most of us take off the black ratchet part on the bottom, but leave the top lock.

    #73001

    Brandon
    Participant

    Revised the 660 mount a bit, nothing fancy just more….Burly. I am already getting tired of that, I liked “525” better.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:944952

    These are old parts?

    #73002

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    The ones on your print plate are the old ones.

    #73017

    Brandon
    Participant

    The ones on your print plate are the old ones.

    Well, damn it.

    Hope these look better… I was using Box to store my 3D printing files and it wasn’t syncing for some reason. So I printed the old ones.

     

    5ECCBE91-6FFF-4AF2-AB95-B77B29F77692

    #73022

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Yup!

    #74245

    Jeff
    Participant

    Ryan

    Do the new Burly parts help with adjusting the z axis to be perpendicular?  I have the 525 version printed and am having issues getting it perpendicular front to back (it’s low in the front by about 2 mm).

    If it’s about the same as far as that adjustment goes, I can start a new thread about the issue I’m having.

    #74303

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    It’s the same. Loosening the 2.5″ bolt moves the rail towards it, tighter away. You say front to back I assume 45 degrees from the rails, that means you need to work the top two and bottom two in tandem. The looser it is to start the more effect it has, as you start to get tighter the less it moves, so start loose, or start by loosening. I also assume that means with my printed tool checker, so low in the front would mean tighten the bottom two 2.5″ or loosen the top two. I think this is super common as the bottom is harder to get to so they get neglected.

    If that does not help please start a new topic.

    #74325

    Jeff
    Participant

    Thanks Ryan. Yes it’s front to back along the y axis rail.

    I’m using a makita router so I created a new tool similar to yours that fits my router. I also created a sort of plastic wrench that I can wedge between the plastic and the nuts to adjust those 4 bolts.

    Ill try your adjustments tonight and see if I can get it to work.

    #74344

    Evan
    Participant

    just more….Burly. I am already getting tired of that, I liked “525” better.

    I’m not much of a ‘meme’ type person but I think of my machine as a Burly Boi now and that makes me OK with it 🙂

    #75575

    Abdul Jabbar
    Participant

    Hey Ryan.

    Hope you are fit n fine.

    Dear do you have a policy of donating the machine or just MPCNC’s printed part only.?

    #75639

    kd2018
    Participant

    Heads up, in the parts listing under hardware the amazon link to the leadscrew is broken.

    Also it may be helpful to new users to clarify the coupler nut, eg. 5/16 coupler if using all thread OR T8 coupler if using T8 leadscrew. As it is it’s a little confusing… Or it could be right, I’m easily confused.

    #75641

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Awesome, thanks. I fixed it, the T8 links do not last long. Also fixed the coupling nut issue. The Burly revision can no longer use one, missed that edit previously.

    #75868

    Vincent Pollaro
    Participant

    Well, I have great timing! I’ve been away from the forums for about 6 months due to life, the universe, work and family. The old MPCNC has been going strong with countless hours of milling, engraving and laser burning/cutting. Just lately I had been thinking it was time for the 100K mile service and was going to tear her down and rebuild, replacing worn/suspect parts as I went. On a whim I stopped by the website a few says ago to see what was going on lately and behold! Perfection has been improved upon? What is this? So, a couple days and a chunk of a roll of filament later I have all of the new parts and mount printed up and ready for this weekends rebuild.

    Just wanted to pop in and say (though I’ve said it before) – Thank you, Ryan! I love your machine. It took the skills I learned through years of 3D printing and building printers and improved upon them while opening up new avenues for creativity and just generally making a lot of noise and chips. Well done, sir.

    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #75886

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Wow, Thanks!

    #76228

    Heath
    Participant

    In the list of printed parts on the site, is there any significance to some part names being in gray and others in black?

     

    #76230

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    My printing color scheme.

    #79620

    Brian
    Participant

    Ryan, thanks for the Burly update, I have parts printing now as I’m building the enclosure for my basement.

    One quick question, is there a trick to this nut? I know you mentioned that the Burly parts are a little more tricky to put together but the nylock nut is spinning on me and for the life of me I can’t tighten the bolt in it all the way.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/42DAYsTc84UzEFRe6

    Thanks!

    #79622

    Brandon
    Participant

    I used needle nose pliers for those.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #79623

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Or a small flat shim, screwdriver, whatever you can get in there. It is sized for the larger 8mm nut for the international builders. We have to deal with that nut they have to deal with the smaller #6 nuts. (all because I am too lazy to make parts for both in all the build sizes)

    #79624

    Brian
    Participant

    Needlenose did the trick. Had to have the fiance turn the bolt but it worked!

    #79625

    Brian
    Participant

    Or a small flat shim, screwdriver, whatever you can get in there. It is sized for the larger 8mm nut for the international builders. We have to deal with that nut they have to deal with the smaller #6 nuts. (all because I am too lazy to make parts for both in all the build sizes)

    No worries, like you said in the instructions it only needs to be tightened once. Thanks!

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