Build in St. Louis

This topic contains 29 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by  Aaron Ward 4 days ago.

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  • #97457

    Aaron Ward
    Participant

    Hello everyone.

    I am in the midst of a very slow building in the St. Louis area.

    I am piecing together an MPCNC currently and will be posting updates in this thread as I progress. I look forward to interacting with you all and also getting this thing up and running!

    I don’t have any pictures but will start posting some as I acquire more things.

     

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    #97504

    Jason
    Participant

    Where at in the st.louis area

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #99254

    Aaron Ward
    Participant

    Where at in the st.louis area

    I am over in Edwardsville

    I am making some progress. It is truly amazing how this is coming together. Everything just works!

    Back story: A friend of mine told me about the MPCNC,that he andw going to build one and I decided I’d like to build one as well. He did all the hard work and printed all the parts for me and all I have to do is assemble the machine.

    I’ll post more as I make more progress.

    This community is amazing and thank you all, esp Ryan, for all the effort put into this!

     

     

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    #99314

    Jason
    Participant

    Sounds good, I’m in the Arnold area just down hwy 55 I’ve finished my first build a few months ago now working on my larger one

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #100027

    Aaron Ward
    Participant

    Sweet looking build!

     

    Update: I have the rails set up and am test fitting everything. Due to being not smart, have conduit from both Lowe’s and Home Depot in the build. The Conduit from Lowe’s is very smooth on the OD but seems out of round. The roller bearings torqued snuggly glide across the conduit effortlessly.The conduit from Home Depot was tex  like tiny waves. I could not get the conduit from Home Depot into the assemblies without  loosening the bearings in the assembly. Even then there was a significant inertial force required to get assemblies moving along the conduit. I’ll be heading to Lowe’s to grab another piece of conduit.

     

    #100070

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    For me that discovery was bitter sweet. I have not tested it in a couple years but the smooth stuff at the time was super soft and the bearings quickly wore it out. The texture on the other stuff comes right off with use (zinc) and it works great.

    #100073

    Melvin
    Participant

    Hey, I’m close too. Southern Jefferson County. Will be working on a job in Arnold this summer.

    Would like to see your build in person Jason. I’m wanting to get the drag chains, but not sure how to mount. Just ordered a 3m section yesterday.

    I sanded the conduits fairly extensively before installation. Before, they looked the ones pictured here: conduit

    #100339

    Aaron Ward
    Participant

    Hey, I’m close too. Southern Jefferson County. Will be working on a job in Arnold this summer.

    Would like to see your build in person Jason. I’m wanting to get the drag chains, but not sure how to mount. Just ordered a 3m section yesterday.

    I sanded the conduits fairly extensively before installation. Before, they looked the ones pictured here:

    What grit sand paper did you use?

    #100379

    Jason
    Participant
    #100383

    Jason
    Participant

    When I get my new machine up you can come take a look at it

    #100818

    Ron Shenk
    Participant

    Can you provide a link to the cable chain mounts you are using on the conduit, motor and z axis.  I really like the look.  I am in the middle of a build and am working on cable management.

    #100959

    Melvin
    Participant

    What grit sand paper did you use?

    Don’t remember, maybe 80 – 120.

    When I get my new machine up you can come take a look at it

    Cool, thanks. Always good to see how others did things… gets the mind aware of other ways to do it. I’ve been working on some mounts myself.

    Can you provide a link to the cable chain mounts you are using on the conduit, motor and z axis. I really like the look. I am in the middle of a build and am working on cable management.

    The rest of my cable chains will come in tomorrow. I could post some pics and my stl/F360 files once done. I made some conduit inserts, works really well.

    #103901

    Aaron Ward
    Participant

    Moving very slow. At this rate I’ll be done by September.

     

    #103911

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Take your time, enjoy it. For some the build is the project. In the first year there were probably 50% that finished there build and then asked, “what should I make”? HAHAHA That is how the MP3DP came to be.

    #105381

    Aaron Ward
    Participant

    X axis movement (1 stepper set up)
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/SvVm14PWFa9EEoby8

    Z axis movement – seems kind of loud and rattly
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/CxAk2zof8AkEkuku5

    My SD card isn’t reading so I can’t do a trial crown but I’ll figure that out here shortly.

    My next steps are to rip some small 3/4″ MDF boards on a table saw and glue them to build a U shape base with an inner width of 24″ that will sit on top of a cabinet topped with MDF. My idea is to buy 24″ wide sheets of MDF and insert them into the U shape for cutting things, or else mount them to the table with clamps.

    After the base is constructed and everything physically mounted, my next focus will be wiring. I’d love to cut out some panels to create a box for the control board and power supply but I’m not sure I want a janky rigged machine doing actual work.

     

    #105506

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Those Z movements are reallly fast, are you sure your steps are correct? Is a 20mm command actually moving 20, or 40?

    #105526

    Aaron Ward
    Participant

    It’s on my list of things to do. I was able to run the crown gcode through the SD card and it moved around, maybe not completely accurately but that’s ok, so i’m calling this a great success for now.

    Now time to refocus on all the basics and get the machine installed as it should be.

    Thanks Ryan!

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    #105668

    Aaron Ward
    Participant

    I never set the default step size parameters in the Marlin config.

    I have 16T pullies installed right now and changed the default value from 80 to 200 and that took care of the X and Y axis.

    The Z axis was set at 4000; this is still in progress and I’ll use the prusa calculator to get this figure out.

    It appears that the Z axis is ‘missing’ some steps; when I run the test crown, it’s not processing the Z0.5 step properly and there is a significant offset at the finish of the crown (10+mm) versus when I zero the Z axis at the start of the crown. More to come.

     

    #105735

    Aaron Ward
    Participant

    Welp, fried my board doing something stupid.

    Now to figure out how to repair smd. I think I blew a 6 pin voltage regulator but I am not knowledgeable enough to really know. I have no idea what to replace it with. See you guys in a few months.

    #105737

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That is why I stopped carrying import ramps, this was the last straw.  The 5V reg’s popped under the “strain” of the LCD led’s…Lame, they should handle a lot more. I have some real 4 pin ones in the shop maybe you can cross reference for a 6 pin version vs your boards schematics.

    #105738

    Erwin Vigilia
    Participant

    6 pin SOT-23 is actually not hard to solder or remove. IC4 on a Rumba is an LT1933ES6 switchmode regulator, you can order it from Digikey or Mouser. Bear in mind, it may not be the only “fried” part, but it’s a start.

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    #105739

    Erwin Vigilia
    Participant

    The 5V reg’s popped under the “strain” of the LCD led’s…Lame,

    Lame indeed. The part that blew (if it’s a “real” Analog Devices part) is only rated for about 600mA, and it’s supposed to have an active clamp for over current protection according to the datasheet… which obviously didn’t work.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #105770

    Aaron Ward
    Participant

    After posting late last nite, I wired up an external 5v regulator and attached it to the onboard 5v jumpers. I was able to power the board with this but none of the steppers would work. Serial COMs to Repetier host worked and the LCD interface worked. I checked 12V supply across the board and everything was as expected. I de-soldered the IC in question and damaged the pad in the process so replacing it kind for kind is out of the question.

    I was tired and frusterated so i did a dumb thing; what I think happened was I put a 8825 driver in with the power on and it somehow tripped something. I also could have put it in backwards/upside down, but looking at the pins it would have sent 12V through the stepper before tripping which shouldn’t be a problem?

    I tried every axis and every driver and every stepper and nothing would work through the LCD.

    I ordered a new set of DRV8825s which will be here tomorrow and a friend is letting me borrow his RAMPS 1.4 with A4988s for testing the steppers.

     

    Whoops. Turn the power off before you mess with stuff!

     

    #105774

    Erwin Vigilia
    Participant

    Did the fried part blow open or did it short the +5V net to Vin? If the latter – toss the board, even if it’s partially working the stresses could result in future failures as you put more operational time into the board… not worth the headaches, especially when it’s used to move sharp pointy things

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    #105795

    Aaron Ward
    Participant

    The damage occurred at pin 5, or Vin. It put bulge on the top of the IC. The top layer of the IC was delaminated and scraped off with a very slight touch.
    This is an import board with modified components compared to the original RUMBA+ and fysetc (FYSTECH) has no schematics available that I’ve seen.

    Attachments:
    #105798

    Erwin Vigilia
    Participant

    I assume you have a DMM, but check for continuity between pins 6 (SW) and 5 (Vin). If it’s shorted, this means Vin connected to the +5V net… anything connected to +5V is suspect (pretty much most of the board).

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #105802

    Aaron Ward
    Participant

    I’ll check the 12V short later tonight

    I was able to boot up the board on USB Power and then later using a standalone 5V mosfet regulator fed from Vin with the output applied to the 5V jumpers. Repetier Host was able to connect. The LCD interface was working correctly. 12V from the power supply appears in the right places.

    I was having issues with Arduino on my Windows 10 machine so I wasn’t able to try reuploading Marlin to the 2560 but I’ll try that again tonight.

    Other than that, I’m a little confused as to why the stepper drivers and steppers won’t work. I need to check the DRV8825s tonight.

    #105806

    Erwin Vigilia
    Participant

    12V from the power supply appears in the right places.

    This means the part died open (good thing), otherwise you’d see 12V on the 5V net – perhaps the dead regulator killed the drivers… who knows. Probably don’t need to check for the short with that info. Did you get your replacement driver modules?

    #105872

    Aaron Ward
    Participant

    My DMM shows continuity between Vin and SW pin 6, but checking the voltage, i show a differential of 7 volts.

    I tried to reprogram through the Arduino IDE and just kept getting timeouts. Repetier Host would ‘connect’ to the board on COM4 but all commands would be timeouts. The LCD interface works as expected. I have no idea where else to look. Don’t see any other components that are damaged.

    I’m assuming the 2560 is fine but the 16U2 is not. I’m going to try the 16U2 reset procedure. This isn’t really worth my time to diagnose but I hate to landfill this thing.

    I’ve got a RAMPS 1.4 board that I’m borrowing from a friend I’ll try tonight.

     

    #106188

    Aaron Ward
    Participant

    Ramps board installed, and the steppers are moving great. Back in business.

    Now moving on to cleaning up wiring and finalize mounting.

    I think the problem with the RUMBA board is that I blew the 16U2 and its junk or the 16U2 needs to be wiped and reprogrammed which I’ll do at some point in the future when I have time.

    Also,

    When the board blew, I purchased a new set of DRV8825 stepper drivers from Amazon just in case.
    I was having some issues pre-board blew with the system ‘missing’ steps; you would call for a +10mm move on the LCD and it would only move the axis 5mm, randomly. So sometimes you’d get a +10mm move or a +5mm move. The new DRV8825 stepper drivers work exactly as they should and are much quieter. The old ones are Geeetech from eBay but I suspect they are knockoffs or just general garbage.

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