May 28, 2019 at 3:42 pm #101891
First off, awesome design, thanks!
I’ve been lurking for a while, my build is coming along. Smaller machine as I’m not even sure where I’m going to fit it – too much junk in the garage. 14″ x 14″ work area – 2′ x 2′. Printed in PLA on my home made Kossel Delta printer. Dual endstops with a MKS gen L controller and onboard RPi to feed gcode. Stainless sanitary 1″ tubing for the frame. Time for wiring.
One question – should the lead screw nut go at the top or bottom of the center assembly? Seems like I’ve seen both ways but the instructions say to only put a couple of screws in it so it seems like it would need to be at the bottom to support the weight.
Attachments:May 28, 2019 at 4:13 pm #101897
Im pretty sure nut goes on top of the center assembly. The weight of the tool puts the lead screw under compression and the small screws only prevent the nut from turning, not supporting the weight. On the bottom side the small screws would have to support the weight.
1 user thanked author for this post.May 28, 2019 at 4:26 pm #101898
I love it homemade everything, you are going to fit in well around here, welcome to the crew!May 28, 2019 at 5:19 pm #101900
Stainless sanitary 1″ tubing for the frame. Time for wiring.
So is there a difference between your sanitary ss tubing and the ss tubing I picked up at the metal supermarket?
From the name I would guess it’s made with higher weld standards for the food and beverage industry?May 28, 2019 at 6:03 pm #101903
I’m not sure, it is .065″ wall thickness. It might just be the surface finish as food and beverage has regulations on that. I work in that industry so it was available and free.May 28, 2019 at 6:09 pm #101904
Thanks. It was a brainfart or the beer… I was looking at it like most of the mass would be the other way around but that all sits on the rails. Oh well, took the opportunity to re-print the Z-lower piece while it is apart. My bearing was a loose fit so I added a bit of super glue and got it off center. The coupling was a little strained. Par for the coarseJune 30, 2019 at 7:47 pm #104774
I’m finally getting back to this project, I’ve been busy with work, life, etc.
I originally planned on crimping all the motor and end-stop connections with Dupont connectors, but I hate my crimpers with a passion and ended up just buying some 2M cables and soldering some CAT5 UTP to the end-stop switches.
I plan on using the tape measure cable tray solution to manage the mess and got hung up on trying to design some brackets that clip onto the tubes that hold the tape measure bits, but I have abandoned that for now, I just want to get this sucker moving…
My first attempt at moving resulted in failure – stuttering, horrible noises, heat… I checked my wiring and I’m pretty sure it was jacked up. I went through and drew up a new schematic.
Can I get a sanity check on what I’m guessing the physical motor and end-stop’s are? I’m using the dual endstop configuration and I didn’t see a clear explanation of which motor is X1/X2 and Y1/Y2 and which end-stop is X1/X2 to X-/X+ and Y1/Y2 to Y-/Y+
Edit – motor wiring was wrong in the picture and X1/Y1 must be reversed in software from X2/Y2?
Attachments:June 30, 2019 at 8:34 pm #104780
I’m not clear from your diagram if you are switching both green-blue and red-black for X1 vs. X2, but if you are, doing so will not reverse the direction of the motor. You need to switch one or the other, but not both, or whats even easier is to wire all motors the same and flip the entire plug to reverse direction where necessary. Regardless, start with small 1mm jogs to confirm they are moving the proper way.June 30, 2019 at 8:49 pm #104783
You’re right, I had it wrong. X1 and X2 / Y1 and Y2 should be wired up the same. I updated my drawing and all motors are humming in the right direction now.
Now I’m just not sure if I have the end-stop/motor relationship right? Is my X1, X2, Y1, Y2 correct here?
Attachments:June 30, 2019 at 9:06 pm #104792
Yes, that looks correct, and your diagram showing E0 -> X2 and E1 -> Y2 is also correct.
The most important thing is that the endstop placement agrees with the motor placement. If you were to switch X1 and X2 physically, I think it would still work as long as the corresponding endstops were still connected to x-min corresponding to motor X1 and x-max corresponding to motor X2.
That’s probably just confusing, but anyway yes, your connections look correct.
1 user thanked author for this post.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.