Bleeding paint

New Home Forum Things You Have Made Bleeding paint

This topic contains 17 replies, has 11 voices, and was last updated by  Jeffeb3 20 hours, 38 minutes ago.

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  • #106364

    Magnus Hacker
    Participant

    So I managed to finish the first sign, but I’m having problems with the paint bleeding into the fibers of the wood. I applied 2-3 coats of spray lacquer but it didn’t help. Anyone have any tips on how to avoid this? The material is soft pine.

    I sanded the wood, cut it on the MPCNC and then applied the lacquer. After letting it dry for an hour or so I spray painted and then used the MPCNC again to cut the top 0.2mm off (I have no orbital sander so this was the easiest approach).

    Perhaps I used the wrong products. I used nitrocellulose lacquer which isn’t maybe the best choice but that’s what I had quick access to.

    #106367

    Jamie
    Participant

    I would have expected your approach to work, but maybe the paint has a solvent that dissolves the lacquer.

    I have used Elmer’s school glue to prevent sharpie from bleeding, and it prevented bleeding but it runs when it gets wet.  Next time I was going to use Titebond waterproof wood glue, but I haven’t yet had that next project that needed it.  I expect it to work but I can’t say I’ve actually done it.

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    #106368

    Magnus Hacker
    Participant

    Yes, I’m suspecting that I’m using the wrong kind of paint. Someone recommended me to try shellack, I’ll give that a try.

    Just realized that we’re actually painting end grain, which is of course more difficult as the paint soaks into the wood more easily.

    #106371

    Aaron
    Participant

    So, clear lacquer, and then spray paint on top? Depending on the paint, there’s a big possibility there are mineral spirits or similar, which can mess with the lacquer. That’s why you don’t apply lacquer on top of general spray paint. 2 coats may not even be enough because it’s basically endgrain.

    I’ve used clear lacquer in only once scenario successfully, and that’s when painting on with brush acrylics or something similar.

    I like shellac, dries super fast, solvent is alcohol, so it usually doesn’t react with anything. What they usually mean is the zinsser’s (sp) from the big box store, in the can at least in the US. If you can get the Seal coat, it’s unwaxed. I only mention this in case the reason you have nitro is because you make guitars, and by shellac, you might think of the actual ones used for french polishing acoustics or something.

    #106375

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    A tip from a while ago was elmrs glue mixed with water. Polycrylic is water based, so it would probably work too.

    Looks like a neat project.

    #106402

    Todd Hansen
    Participant

    Magnus,

    I have had the same problem with a number of my projects.  I have a process that is working for me on the signs I have been cutting.  The paint I have been using is Rust-oleum spray cans from Home Depot.

    1. Spray on two coats of clear gloss and let dry before cutting.
    2. Cut sign
    3. Spray on two more coats of clear gloss and let dry.  This is a heavy coat making sure to get down in the areas that are cut. I usually let it set over night.
    4. Spray on color.
    5. Sand
    6. Spray on Polyurethane finish

    20181223_200628

    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #106486

    Turbinbjorn
    Participant

    Can the bleed differ depending on what type of wood you use?

    #106491

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    You can still get paint stuck in between the bumps if you have a bumpy surface, even if you have it sealed well.

    This looks more like the paint was dissolving the finish.

    #106508

    Tim
    Participant

    I’m picking up some of that Zinsser Sealcoat (really just unwaxed shellac) this weekend to try out. I’ll be sure to post up my results.

    #106512

    Aaron
    Participant

    I’m picking up some of that Zinsser Sealcoat (really just unwaxed shellac) this weekend to try out. I’ll be sure to post up my results.

    I also forgot to mention, and this may be a deal breaker, it’s a little difficult to sand if you don’t let it dry enough, it’s pretty gummy, even the unwaxed version. heat + Shellac = Gum. I generally used it with some kind of masking material that I carve through. It’s also my favorite finish since it dries so fas, so I use it on all decorative type items.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    Tim
    #106514

    Tim
    Participant

    I’m picking up some of that Zinsser Sealcoat (really just unwaxed shellac) this weekend to try out. I’ll be sure to post up my results.

    I also forgot to mention, and this may be a deal breaker, it’s a little difficult to sand if you don’t let it dry enough, it’s pretty gummy, even the unwaxed version. heat + Shellac = Gum. I generally used it with some kind of masking material that I carve through. It’s also my favorite finish since it dries so fas, so I use it on all decorative type items.

    Oh no, I just took your post as a jumping off point. I did a lot of reading around the net after seeing dewaxed shellac in your comment since I’d seen it mentioned elsewhere. It just so happens that the specific brand/product you mentioned is the only stuff I can find locally that is dewaxed, haha.

    #106515

    Aaron
    Participant

    I’m picking up some of that Zinsser Sealcoat (really just unwaxed shellac) this weekend to try out. I’ll be sure to post up my results.

    I also forgot to mention, and this may be a deal breaker, it’s a little difficult to sand if you don’t let it dry enough, it’s pretty gummy, even the unwaxed version. heat + Shellac = Gum. I generally used it with some kind of masking material that I carve through. It’s also my favorite finish since it dries so fas, so I use it on all decorative type items.

    Oh no, I just took your post as a jumping off point. I did a lot of reading around the net after seeing dewaxed shellac in your comment since I’d seen it mentioned elsewhere. It just so happens that the specific brand/product you mentioned is the only stuff I can find locally that is dewaxed, haha.

    It’s the only mass produced, consumer available shellac in the US/Canada afaik, so that may be why.

    #106532

    Dui, ni shuo de dui
    Participant

    Pine is a bad wood to get fine details with paint. It tends to absorb any kind of liquid into the fibers.

    Thicker paint might help, but ultimately an other wood would be better.

    #108639

    David Walling
    Participant

    I just hand painted mine with acrylic paints.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #109955

    Magnus Hacker
    Participant

    I just hand painted mine with acrylic paints.

    That’s what I plan to try next. Just cut, then paint the cut areas and then sand?

    #109965

    Barry
    Participant

    I just hand painted mine with acrylic paints.

    That’s what I plan to try next. Just cut, then paint the cut areas and then sand?

    I used krylon.  Then hit the oak with a torch.

    #110348

    Kenny Carnes
    Participant

    Well, here’s my two cents. I did two carved plaques in maple. For the first one I grabbed a can of Krylon black and just shot it. Took forever to dry and never got hard. Bled like crazy and took forever to sand and you can still see bleeding. For the second one I broke out the airbrush and used Createx airbrush paint. (I didn’t use it first because I was too lazy to clean out the airbrush.) The Createx covered great, dried fast and sanded easily with no bleeding. No precoat on either plaque. You could certainly brush the Createx but Harbor Freight has really cheap airbrushes that would do fine for this application.

    Krylon spray can

    Createx airbrush paint
    Createx paint finished

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #110362

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Interesting.

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