Ben's 3' x 6' Rebuild with pics

New Home Forum Mostly Printed CNC – MPCNC Your Builds – MPCNC Ben's 3' x 6' Rebuild with pics

This topic contains 115 replies, has 11 voices, and was last updated by  Ryan 3 days, 1 hour ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 31 through 60 (of 116 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #74731

    Benjammann
    Participant

    Ah then that will probably not work. Have you tried switching the motors with the drivers and see if you get the same issue with the same motor or the swapped motor?

    So last night I switched everything over to parallel wiring. The lagging Y2 motor improved but remained an issue…  I thought for sure it was the board slot. So it looks like this means it’s either the motor, the wiring, or a mechanical issue preventing the movement.

    Tonight I’m going to try switching the motors again, and I’m willing to give heavier wiring a try. Does anyone have a source or ideas for the wiring? I’m guessing something that comes in a roll with 6 heavier wires would be ideal. Then you buy the same connectors and crimp them on the ends so they can plug into the board?

    #74739

    Lénaïc
    Participant

    I’m willing to give heavier wiring a try

    If wires are the problem, shorter wires can do the trick so you can test without buying new ones. If it works, then heavier wires should work too.

    I haven’t yet wired my mpcnc, so I won’t advise on numbers of wires, but for the needed section there are many calculators online (for exemple) based on lenght / voltage / accptable loss.

    If your wires are a bit shielded, that’s better. Stepper motors operate with pulses, which easily spread to adjacent cables if the shielding is inadequate.

    #74941

    Benjammann
    Participant

    Replaced all the long lengths of wire with a heavier gauge. This cleared up a few issues but it turns out it was a combination of the wiring as well as a bad position on the board for the Y2 motor. Now that slot isn’t even sending a signal despite trying three different drivers, so I’ve gone back to parallel wiring for now until I upgrade the board. After three days of troubleshooting wiring it was nice to see it finally home last night.

    There is one remaining issue, however. When I try to home the machine with a long distance to travel, the X axis stops after about 400mm and Repitier throws a red error message that says the printer has an error. Any ideas there?

    Here’s a few progress pics. Still lots of tweaking and cleanup to do, but I might be cutting a test part tonight. Then maybe cut a few parts for itself!




    #74947

    Lénaïc
    Participant

    This is just an idea, but isn’t there a timeout on homing ?

    #74951

    Benjammann
    Participant

    This is just an idea, but isn’t there a timeout on homing ?

    I would check for this in the firmware? I can’t find anything in Repitier settings that indicates this.

    #74952

    Lénaïc
    Participant

    I think so, but haven’t yet look at the code. Repetier is just an interface with the firware, it won’t set timeouts as it have to stay compatible with different printers / cnc.

    Maybe others would know where to search it.

    #74964

    Bill
    Participant

    IIRC there’s soft endstops configured that may be kicking in. Set your bed size correctly and it might work or go into the configuration files and hard code in a larger bed.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #74974

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    To reiterate the other post. No homing in non-dual firmware. And the bed setting are firmware set to 200mm. If you are getting 400mm, you have step rate issues as well.

    #75072

    Benjammann
    Participant

    So I couldn’t resist immediately cutting something once I got it running. Doing some pen tests tonight though.

    I cut at 3″ square just to have something I could throw calipers on. The X came in at 3.020″ and the Y at 3.030″. Of course my next question is how to fix / tighten up these tolerances. I’ve read through the extensive pen test threads. I don’t have the auto squaring, so would I just tighten belts to try to fix this? I’m really tempted to mess with mm per step settings..



    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #75084

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    The steps per mm should not need to be calibrated ever. That is only for extruder gears because of tolerances and filament tension.

    Right now you are withing a half a millimeter over 76, so first try you are within 99.4%. Not bad at all.

    Did you use a finishing pass? You should have.

    Do you have some plastic to try the tests on? Wood is not the most accurate of materials.

    How do the diagonals measure?

    #75085

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Belts is another part of this but don’t touch them upload some pictures of your zipties.

    #75584

    Benjammann
    Participant

    Did you use a finishing pass?

    Do you have some plastic to try the tests on? Wood is not the most accurate of materials.

    How do the diagonals measure?

    I’ve been busy just designing and cutting ever since we got it running well enough to cut. Appreciating it more and more! Really nice. Really empowering.

    I have been using a finish cut. I’ve spent the past year programming and cutting on the Taig, so I’m at least decent in that area. I haven’t done any tests on plastic, I’ll try to get to that. Also didn’t get pics of my zip ties, but I’ve got one side right against the plastic, the other is around half an inch away.

    So I did a 24″ x 60″ pen test. I ended up .0312″ long on the 24″ and .0625″ long on the 60″. The diagonal was .125″ longer than the other. Also drew another 3″ square with a pen. The Y was spot on, the X was .030″ too long.

    Starting to understand and know how to set everything more square and parallel before an important cut. Strangely my Z cut depth is less at the center of the table, you’d think it would be more with the 6′ span potentially sagging.

    I am wondering how to pause a cut and still have the XYZ job position not cleared out. I’ve tried a few different M commands as well as some others I’ve dug up, but no success so far. Also wondering where to set the travel speed that the machine uses while going home. Over 60″ away it takes a very long time to return.

    Here are some progress pics. Still need to finish the table and wiring, but this thing is a blast now that it’s working. Can’t stop cutting stuff!

    Bonus content: I built a temp garage heater out of free or very cheap parts.






     

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #75596

    Barry
    Participant

    Turkey fryer, some single wall chimney pipe, and a brake rotor?  That’s genius!

    #75612

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    It is rare a cut is ever too long. Your numbers are really good for a giant machine, do you really need better than a 32nd at this point?

    I am not saying it might not be able to get better but I suggest using it, getting to know it, make some things. Don’t spend all you time initially chasing tolerances higher than a 32nd on a machine without dual endstops.

    #75616

    Benjammann
    Participant

    Do you really need better than a 32nd at this point?

    Well, a lot of what I have planned are things that interlock with each other, although I agree that over 60″ to be off by just a 1/16″ is amazing! I just wish it scaled down more, because at 3″ it’s still off .030″  while the Y axis is now dead on.

    I do think I could get my center assembly set to be a tiny bit more square. One question I had was that you reference certain bolts as A B or C, but I don’t see any images or other text pointing out which tension bolts are what. Am I missing that somewhere?

    #75618

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I have redone the instructions recently. But just look at the bolts, tighter pushes the rail away, looser, the opposite. Tighten the Z tension bolts in pairs.

     

    I do not thing that is the issue though.

    #75700

    Benjammann
    Participant

    Got the cabinet braced up. Made up an excuse to cut some curved panels for the front. Extremely solid. Now to finish the wiring and other random items.

    Still wondering how to pause a job in Repitier and maintain xyz zeros. Tried all the usual codes. Also looking for where to set the travel speed for when the return to zero command is sent.


    #75708

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Still wondering how to pause a job in Repitier and maintain xyz zeros.

    Pause locks the steppers, and holds the coordinates. What are you looking to do, as in why pause and not change anything?

     

     

    The build looks great.

    #75710

    Benjammann
    Participant

    Still wondering how to pause a job in Repitier and maintain xyz zeros.

    Pause locks the steppers, and holds the coordinates. What are you looking to do, as in why pause and not change anything?

    The build looks great.

    I do a lot of test runs, or runs where I’m slowly lowering the cut. I’m often needing to stop the cut and return to Zero and restart. Also, when I’m 60 inches away and need to return to zero it goes incredibly slow and takes like 5 minutes. Working on getting dual end stops. Might order a Rambo today.

    #75711

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Also, when I’m 60 inches away and need to return to zero it goes incredibly slow and takes like 5 minutes

    Exactly how are you doing this? It sounds like you are not giving it a feedrate.

    #75712

    Benjammann
    Participant

    Also, when I’m 60 inches away and need to return to zero it goes incredibly slow and takes like 5 minutes

    Exactly how are you doing this? It sounds like you are not giving it a feedrate.

    In Fusion 360 I’ve got all my feedrates set to 300mm. Is that the source? It goes so slow that I thought it must be limited somewhere else. I’m not used to working in mm so it’s taking some getting used to.

    #75714

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I am not understanding what you are trying to do. How do you use fusion to tell you machine to go home? In fusion and the Post processor you have rapids and feedrates for both XY and Z axes.

    300mm/s is way too fast and would move the whole table very quickly. 300mm/m=5mm/s…super slow and would explain your issue.

    #75715

    Benjammann
    Participant

    n

    So looks like I was on 300mm / minute. So that explains that.

    Now my only issue is while using Repitier, I cannot seem to pause or kill a job and maintain my zeros. In the scripts section under the buttons for pause or kill the scripts are blank. I tried adding various codes but none will stop cutting without acting like I hit the e-stop and wiping out my zero.

    #75716

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Kill, basically resets teh board. So nothing is retained.

    Pause should work just fine but the buffer has to clear before it pauses if you use the pause button (8-12 moves). You can put it in the gcode (M00) and resume with the LCD button or manually by entering a command in repetier (M108).

    We all use Pause to do tool changes it should function perfectly.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #76034

    Benjammann
    Participant

    So thanks to Ryan’s quick shipping I have a Rambo to mess with this weekend! I got it all wired up last night with dual end stops. When I issue the M119 command they all show up as triggered. They are wired normally closed using the top and bottom pins on each end stop. Is this a firmware issue? I tried switching the logic in the firmware and uploading to the board but I can’t get it to communicate. Do I need the Rambo Arduino board support or is the Mega fine?

    So my questions are:

    1: Why are my end stops showing up as triggered?

    2. Do I need any special config to get Arduino to see the Rambo board?

    Thanks!

     

    #76037

    BT
    Participant
    1. Do they change state if you trigger them?  Specifically, hold a switch closed and run M119.  That will tell you whether the switches are connected to the Rambo and being sensed by the Rambo.
    2. To reprogram a Rambo, you need the USB connection and separate 12V power for the board.  Ryan’s instructions are about 1/3 way down the firmware page.  I use Octoprint with the firmware updater to update by board. It’s nice because I don’t need to disconnect and move the board.
    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #76038

    Benjammann
    Participant
    1. Do they change state if you trigger them? Specifically, hold a switch closed and run M119. That will tell you whether the switches are connected to the Rambo and being sensed by the Rambo.
    2. To reprogram a Rambo, you need the USB connection and separate 12V power for the board. Ryan’s instructions are about 1/3 way down the firmware page. I use Octoprint with the firmware updater to update by board. It’s nice because I don’t need to disconnect and move the board.

    1: Yup, they go to open when I trigger them. Does this indicate that whatever firmware is on the board is expecting them to be normally open and I need to change this? When I download the standard Rambo auto square firmware from github it has the switches set to normally closed already.

    2: I’ve got the usb connection and separate power to the board following the instructions. Just can’t seem to connect via the arduino. Ill check out the Octoprint firmware updater. I dont have wifi in the garage and if I can just get it uploaded via Arduino software that would be optimal right now for me I think.

    Thanks!

    #76040

    Barry
    Participant

    The firmware is expecting normally closed.  That way if a wire gets broken, you don’t accidentally crash into a stop.

    #76042

    BT
    Participant

    I think I’m going to need some more details, like what OS are you  using?  What is the specific error you are getting with the Arduino software?  Speaking of which, what version of the arduino IDE do you have installed? It should be 1.9.  Have you tried a different port?  You can verify connection by using the Tools|Get Board info from the menu bar.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #76043

    Benjammann
    Participant

    The firmware is expecting normally closed. That way if a wire gets broken, you don’t accidentally crash into a stop.

    I believe I have them wired normally closed using the two outer pins, not the middle one. If this is correct, why am I getting a triggered state when they are not triggered? When it manually trigger them they state open.

Viewing 30 posts - 31 through 60 (of 116 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.