Beginner Resources and End Mill Help?

New Home Forum Mostly Printed CNC – MPCNC Advice – MPCNC Beginner Resources and End Mill Help?

This topic contains 22 replies, has 9 voices, and was last updated by  Barry 1 month, 3 weeks ago.

Viewing 23 posts - 1 through 23 (of 23 total)
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  • #56469

    Rob S.
    Participant

    I was wondering if anyone has some good online beginner resources they can point me too for learning about CAM setups.  I’m not looking for specific software tutorials, but maybe some lessons on the actual mechanical side of things.  Developing tool paths, which tools to use when, that sort of thing.  I’m still in assembly now, and will plan on using HD foam to practice on before getting started with MDF and eventually working my way up to hardwoods.  If there are software tutorials that provide this sort of background that would be fine too.  Whatever I can get my hands on to learn the basics before I dive in and cause chaos.

    In addition, I’m going to be ordering a DW660 from amazon and figured I would order some end mills at the same time, can anyone recommend any of the assorted kits on amazon  or provide a recommendation on what bits I should be looking to buy?  I was considering picking this up:

    https://www.amazon.com/tool-home-Speed-Steel-Straight-Cutter/dp/B00ZZYJU2U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522243550&sr=8-3&keywords=end+mill+set

    Since I’m jumping into this with limited knowledge, I’m not sure what I should be looking for to get started with.

    In other news, “Hot Wheels” has officially entered the assembly phase, with only another 20 hours of print time left for the remaining parts!

     

     

     

    #56470

    Mike
    Participant

    That amazon end mill set won’t really do you any good, because the 660 can only accept up to a 1/8″ bit.

    This might be a better choice. I can’t vouch for the quality, but they would definitely work in foam and most likely any wood materials and if you break a few, its no great loss.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQWAQDS

    And as far as types of bits, straight end, ball nose and v-bit are the most common to get started with. Straight bits are common for thru-cutting parts from a sheets, pocket cutting and roughing passes for contour milling. Ball nose are common for finishing passes (or roughing) in contour milling. V-bits are often used in engraving, text in wood, metal as well as PCB milling.

    As for CAD/CAM I like Fusion 360. There is a bit of a learning curve, but it is a quite robust platform and improving all the time. Below are some resources I have used along the way.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCo29kn3d9ziFUZGZ50VKvWA

    https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/get-started

    http://academy.titansofcnc.com/

    4 users thanked author for this post.
    #56473

    Rob S.
    Participant

    Thanks, I’m going to blame my lack of coffee this morning for not paying attention to that.  It looks like maybe there aren’t any assorted kits that make a lot of sense.

    I’m guessing I should get at least an 1/8″ 2 flute and 4 flute carbide flat bit? and maybe the same in 1/16″?

    Should i bother with a v-nose or ball end bit initially?

     

    Also, thanks for the resource suggestions, I will definitely check them out!

     

     

    #56482

    Mike
    Participant

    The speed of the 660 is really to fast to use a 4 flute. Ryan is working on a speed controller for it though, and some use a generic router speed controller as well. Without speed control single or double flutes seem to be the norm for that router. Also, I think you would need a new collet to use the 1/16″ bits.

    I actually don’t use that one though, I use the Makita RT0701C and converted it to use the ER11 collet system. It has built in manual speed control 10K-30K RPM.

    I bought one of each type of bit from a local tooling shop when I started, but I have yet to use the ball end mill. I guess it all just depends on what you are planning on doing with it.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #56484

    Rob S.
    Participant

    The speed of the 660 is really to fast to use a 4 flute. Ryan is working on a speed controller for it though, and some use a generic router speed controller as well. Without speed control single or double flutes seem to be the norm for that router. Also, I think you would need a new collet to use the 1/16″ bits.

    Awesome.  I just checked and it looks like the DW660 comes with both a 1/4″ and 1/8″ collet, so I will focus my efforts there.  I was considering ordering a speed controller eventually, they look relatively simple to integrate.

    Looks like I can keep it simple and order a few bits to get started with.  Thanks again for all the info.

    #56487

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    If you are very new to this I highly recommend not messing with anything except a single flute upcut but. Start there, adding bit comes when you learn why you might use a different bit.

    Make cuts, get them as clean as possible. This bit is for cutting parts out and making pockets.

    Or….If cutting out parts is not your thing and you are more into the sign side of things start with a Vbit. This bit is for carving and sharper corners.

    One or the other, trying to learn both might be difficult at first.

    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #56490

    JDGreen
    Participant

    I have had good luck with bits from this eBay store

    http://stores.ebay.com/drillbitsunlimited/

    Look for his Carbide Router Bits/Endmills or O-Flute End Mills from the categories on the left of your screen.

    He sells hundreds of sizes but I typically buy the 1/8″ or 1/16″ 2 flute or O-flute end mills.

    I have not had much luck with the diamond pattern or chip breakers…I end up using the plan or TiN coated.

    These bits work well in wood, MDF or even aluminum and softer plastics.

    I do not have much luck with acrylic, plexiglass or lexan…I need to try left hand twist bits for that.

    Good luck and keep asking great questions.

    This machine and the support here is excellent.

     

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #56495

    Rob S.
    Participant

    Or….If cutting out parts is not your thing and you are more into the sign side of things start with a Vbit.

    It’s funny you mention that.  I was hoping to eventually make a nice House # / Name sign for the front of the house as proof to my wife that I haven’t just been drinking beer in the basement this whole time.

     

    Thanks for the tips!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #56496

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Start with a vbit, I have one in the shop, or ebay as mentioned before.

    #56501

    Rob S.
    Participant

    Thanks, I just ordered 2 of each from the shop.  I’ll start out with the V bit as you suggest, but figured I’d rather place the order for both types now.

    #56511

    David Rabbit
    Participant

    I use the Makita RT0701C

    I notice the product desription for it says, “Electronic speed control maintains constant speed under load.”  Is it, then, as good as the PID that has been discussed lately?  I mean, the entire router with that included costs less than a Super PID just by itself.

    Did you have to make a special adapter for it, or does the RT0701C fit the standard MPCNC parts?

    #56513

    Barry
    Participant
    I use the Makita RT0701C

    I notice the product desription for it says, “Electronic speed control maintains constant speed under load.” Is it, then, as good as the PID that has been discussed lately? I mean, the entire router with that included costs less than a Super PID just by itself.

    Did you have to make a special adapter for it, or does the RT0701C fit the standard MPCNC parts?

    I don’t see why it wouldn’t.  It’s the same size as the Dewalt.  The issue I see with it, sure it keeps constant speed, but what’s the speed?  Numbers 1 through 9 don’t really mean anything.

    #56515

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    The 611 says the same thing and I can tell you first hand it does not, nothing I can even notice.

    #56521

    David Rabbit
    Participant

    I own some other Makita gear, like some saws and a planar, and–though I haven’t measured them with instruments–I do get the subjective impression that Makita’s constant speed control does work on them.  So, maybe there’s hope that the Makita trim router performs like it should too, even if the Dewalt doesn’t.  Anyhow, since Mike already owns one, it seems like it’s worth asking.

    #56525

    Mike
    Participant

    I believe it does a reasonable job of maintaining its set speed. It did not bog down when I accidentally cut through the head of a steel hold down screw when I was cutting acrylic. Also, it does not sound any different when it changes from pocket cutting using only a portion of the bit, to slot cutting where it is using 180° of the bit.

    I found the attached table regarding speed settings. I went out and tested it (no-load) and the numbers were very close for each setting. Also, the dial is “infinitely” variable, so it doesn’t just step from one speed to the next, it gradually increases/decreases as you move the dial.

    I was under the impression that the PID would allow you to control the speed via software. The Makita can only be controlled manually (although I do remember reading somewhere that a guy was controlling it with gcode, but there seemed to be a lot of extra hardware involved).

    I use the following mount for it, but am going to modify it to allow for more surface area of the aluminum body to be open to the air for cooling, sometimes it gets quite warm.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1652878

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    #56537

    David Rabbit
    Participant
    #67503

    rolland elliott
    Participant

    I use the Makita RT0701C and converted it to use the ER11 collet system. It has built in manual speed control 10K-30K RPM.

    how did you convert the makita? I like this router and would love to be able to use a er11 system.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #68040

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    I use the Makita RT0701C and converted it to use the ER11 collet system. It has built in manual speed control 10K-30K RPM.

    how did you convert the makita? I like this router and would love to be able to use a er11 system.

    Evening Gentlemen

     

    Im also very keen to hear the answer. I have a Makita and would also like to know some starting speed/feed settings for Ply and MDF

     

    regards

    #68094

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    The 611 says the same thing and I can tell you first hand it does not, nothing I can even notice.

    I spoke to soon. It does work. Very noticeable when I used it by hand and leaned into it. I can’t tell if a PID on this would be worth the effort. The PID should compensate faster and give exact control but on the 611 not a huge difference other than that.

    #110813

    Chad
    Participant

    I actually don’t use that one though, I use the Makita RT0701C and converted it to use the ER11 collet system.

    I’m using this same router, I can’t seem to find an ER 11 system for it. Where did you find this? And is it still available?

    #110839

    Barry
    Participant
    #110857

    Chad
    Participant

    https://elairecorp.com/makitaroutercollets.html

    Just size adapters though right? They don’t offer the er11 collet? or am I not seeing something.

    #110929

    Barry
    Participant

    Not for that router.  It would probably need one of those extension things, which you really don’t want.  Cuts into your height, and they’re kinda janky.

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