March 25, 2019 at 8:25 am #94468
Well, nice to know the systems are working. Now the question is repair or replace? A print stopped halfway through with a bed runaway error and it won’t heat up now. (Error attached). The screen is showing the indoor temp on the bed and nozzle.
Attachments:March 25, 2019 at 9:18 am #94485
Could be a few things. If it is below 5C it will not work (you get that error, unless you edit the firmware), if it is really cold your bed might not be able to keep up and a Mains SSR version might be a better choice.March 25, 2019 at 10:06 am #94495
I agree with Ryan. It could also be a loose wire. The board may have turned the heater on but if the wires are not connecting to the heated bed then nothing will happen. after a short time of the heater being turned “on” and the temperature not rising this error will pop up.
So did the heated bed go cold? will it heat at all? Is it just not keeping up?
The wires get moved a lot during a print. Something could have just come loose.March 25, 2019 at 12:04 pm #94507
The wires get moved a lot during a print. Something could have just come loose.
Right you are. The positive that goes to the bed (at the bed) wore loose or wore and broke. I’ll tear it apart this evening and see how I’m going to fix it (I’m assuming it fixable). I had poked on the wiring but that’s a tight bend on my printer and it wasn’t until I pulled and poked that it was apparent.
I’m assuming that if this broke mid-print (which it did) and the board was trying to send voltage to add more heat to the bed but it wasn’t registering any effect it triggered the thermal runaway? Is that right?
1 user thanked author for this post.March 25, 2019 at 12:32 pm #94512
Yes if any heater is not within a few degrees plus or minus of where it should be it shuts down.March 25, 2019 at 3:17 pm #94539
What do you all think re-tin the wire and hope for a good solder connection? I think I have the skills…..it doesn’t look or smell burned up – most certainly looks like it was just a wiggle wear out. I see one protruding screw that might touch it just enough as it passes by on Y axis moves.
Attachments:March 25, 2019 at 4:04 pm #94547
Yeah. That should be easy to solder/re-tin.
Then you will want to find a way to support the wires so this doesn’t happen again. On my old i3 Migbot (Similar to the MP3DP) I rotated the heated bed 90 degrees so the wires were connected to the side (instead of the back). Then I used kapton tape to secure the wires to the edge of the bed the rest of the length of the bed so the wires would still stick out the back. There are more elegant solutions but it worked for me for a while.
Other people probably have some amazing solutions with cable chains and stuff.March 25, 2019 at 5:17 pm #94558
Um….is that like special high temp solder or something? I can’t even get a cold weld out of it….and I’m using a nice high/low power iron……March 25, 2019 at 7:57 pm #94567
Going to borrow a friends butane torch tomorrow. Best all my Googling came up with. Any idea how I can protect the LED right beside the solder pad?March 26, 2019 at 12:08 am #94588
Dui, ni shuo de duiParticipant
Going to borrow a friends butane torch tomorrow. Best all my Googling came up with. Any idea how I can protect the LED right beside the solder pad?
No no no, don’t do that!
No blowtorch on a heating bed, you’ll destroy the bed and ruin everything, plus the solder will just burn.
Get a proper soldering iron and use soldering fluxMarch 26, 2019 at 7:14 am #94612
I think my soldering station is “proper”, just not strong enough (40w on high setting). Maybe I’ll try heating it through with the Ender bed and then see if I can get the solder to melt.March 26, 2019 at 7:36 am #94616
Maybe I’ll try heating it through with the Ender bed and then see if I can get the solder to melt.
Yeah a preheat before your next attempt should go a long way. It takes a lot of juice to solder that large of a pad to an aluminum plate, it sucks the heat out instantly.March 26, 2019 at 9:19 am #94628
Okay I got it. I set the under bed to 88 (don’t ask where I got that number from…..just didn’t want to go over 100 and risk the magnetic issues I’ve read about). It looked promising but still little underpowered in the soldering iron department so I used a MAP torch to super heat the soldering iron tip and that did the trick. Quite well in fact. the bead looks nice 0 pretty confident it’s not a cold weld. I’ll update success or lack thereof when I get it back together.
1 user thanked author for this post.March 26, 2019 at 9:22 am #94629
Interesting development. Usually my 40w iron is enough but not always. If I lived closer I would let you borrow my 100w soldering gun. I have only ever used it to remove solder from some boards and to repair the connection to the thermalcouple on my water heater.
Ok, here are some other creative ideas. Not sure if they are good just creative:
- Use a sharp chizel or something to scratch the solder off. This could result in ripping the pad off the board.
- Borrow the blowtorch but don’t use directly on the solder. Try using it to heat your soldering iron a little more.
- Use a grinder, dremel, hack saw etc..
As long as you remove enough of the old to allow yourself to get a good new connection you will be ok. You should be ok just using your normal solder/tin when you connect your wire again. My old i3 Migbot used a MK2 heated bed as well. I used normal solder/tin on it and was able to get the bed up to 95 C consistently. it held fine.
EDIT: you beat me to it. Nice work.March 26, 2019 at 9:56 am #94634March 26, 2019 at 10:04 am #94637
Hey Kelly, I found this posting, good thing your printer has thermal run away.
you could have texted me I have a 140w soldering gun you could have used.March 26, 2019 at 10:27 am #94648
But that would have been too easy now, wouldn’t it have been? Haha
Duly noted. Can I borrow three eggs?
1 user thanked author for this post.March 26, 2019 at 10:45 am #94650
Lol ya probably would have been too easy, who wants easy anyways.
Lol 3 eggs sure no problem. I can have my wife get them out for you, just let me know so I can tell her. Just a heads up they take longer to cook on the heat bed then on the stove.March 26, 2019 at 10:52 am #94652
Hahahahaha……I might have just spit tea all over the place………March 26, 2019 at 2:56 pm #94683
It’s really amazing how many people don’t use those holes at the back of the plate to mount the wires… 🙂March 26, 2019 at 7:38 pm #94711
Dui, ni shuo de duiParticipant
I used a MAP torch to super heat the soldering iron tip and that did the trick. Quite well in fact. the bead looks nice 0 pretty confident it’s not a cold weld.
That’s a clever trick
The only issue I see with this trick is that you probably toasted the tip of the soldering iron. The tips are usually coated with a specific material I forgot, torching had probably oxydized it so you’ll probably have to change for a new one because there’s a good chance it won’t solder very well anymore.March 26, 2019 at 9:04 pm #94718
I bet you’re right. There was definite copper burning in the flame – that’s what I used as my “must be hot now” indicator. It wasn’t glowing – which I was disappointed by but it worked nonetheless. The MP3DP has been spitting filament out all day long today. Made the last two rail plug ends for the MPCNC rewire job and is now making one of the last of my printed lithophanes – the rest will hopefully be milled.March 28, 2019 at 2:27 pm #94864
I was about ready to ask how others had managed to get a decent solder joint on the massive heatsink aka the heater bed.
My iron definitely isn’t up to muster for this job, I was considering putting the bed in a toaster oven to help…
I may give your idea a go first, hmmm where did i put the butane torch:)March 28, 2019 at 2:59 pm #94865
I have to say, it worked pretty well and at no point did I feel like what I was doing wasn’t a very good idea (which isn’t always a bad thing….but sometimes it can be). Haha
I will say that I think having the ability to also heat the bed on the other printer was a huge help.March 28, 2019 at 3:24 pm #94866
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