Back at it with a custom MP3DP

New Home Forum Milled Printed 3D Printer -MP3DP Your Builds – MP3DP Back at it with a custom MP3DP

This topic contains 42 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  SteamPunkProgrammer 1 month, 1 week ago.

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  • #112289

    SteamPunkProgrammer
    Participant

    I’ve built a couple of MP3DPs for friends and family but this time around I’m building myself a fancy one with duel bowden extruders, almost done and just to excited to just post this awesome picture of the two bowden tubes running into my mounting system and my auto bed leveler and everything just looks so awesome and tests so far are pretty cool!

    #112302

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    That is very neat. I’ve never tried bowden. I saw one of tech2cs early videos where he replaced the direct drive on a prusa clone with a bowden and swore the quality improvement was huge. I’ve heard others complain about things like retraction problems. I’ve never tried flex filament, so maybe I should try it on my printer…

    #112304

    SteamPunkProgrammer
    Participant

    So far I haven’t had a lot of problems, the bowden tubes are pretty short so that probably helps a lot, you do have to tweak settings to get it to work right because its definitely different then direct drive but the benefits are there for sure!

     

    Also this thing looks amazing, like something from a cyberpunk setting haha

    #112306

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    What was that movie where time travellers pulled people out of crashing airplanes? It reminds me of that.

    Definiteky extra point for style.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #112310

    SteamPunkProgrammer
    Participant

    for anyone interested in the design of the mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3848369

    #112614

    SteamPunkProgrammer
    Participant

    all operational after a lot of fun with a shorting out heated bed (ate two ramps boards :|) but now we are up and running!

     

    https://twitter.com/SteamPunkProg/status/1170833999813648385 (leds were required)

    #112617

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That is some high tech fancy modding. Super cool. I always have big intentions but never just get to it, as I get closer to the finish line I just want to use it… I don’t make a good modder….

    #112621

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    That is quite a KITT. Looks pretty awesome. How well does it print?

    #112624

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Man I was gunna say that but was worried I would sound too old!

    #112625

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I am not sure you have looked at it yet but Marlin has all kinds of cool led integration built in now. Fade when heating to temp and flash when ready.

    #112633

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Haven’t you heard? Nostalgia from the 80s is so popular, kids born in the 2000s are making references.

    #112645

    Bill
    Participant

    That’s the first time I clicked on ‘download all files’ and it didn’t just give me a zip. I guess I’ll do the zip myself, since it seems to let me download the individual STLs just fine. I’ve got a Chimera hot end that’s just been gathering dust that wouldn’t be tough to adapt to this, and I’ve been running Bowden on my MP3DP for years now.

    So… What about part fans? 🙂

    • This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by  Bill.
    #112799

    SteamPunkProgrammer
    Participant

    It still prints pretty bad, maybe you guys can help, I keep getting hashing patterns in the tops and bottoms of things, the walls are solid, but anytime its solid filling there is spaces. I tried a lot of things, raising the heat helped some but its still not quite right. picture of the problem below.

    I tried raising the feedrate, tightening the motor spring, lucubrating the bowden tube, slowing it down to a crawl, raising the heat, all of which helped slightly but it seems like a bigger issue is causing the real problem.

     

    I’m actually using octoprint to control the neopixels, they become a progress bar while printing, change colors based on states, like heating and leveling or idle [the knightrider animation ;)]

    #112806

    SteamPunkProgrammer
    Participant

    AH-ha! I figured it out, needed even more heat, and better retraction settings to deal with the side effects of that more heat!

     

    edit: no wait…still kinda gapy.. but def better.

    #112813

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Have you calibrated the extruder at your new temps? It looks like it is definitely under extruding.

    Are your temps crazy high? Maybe you have the wrong thermistor table in the firmware?

    I don’t follow this exactly, but I do use this guide as a reference when I’m setting up my machine, just to make sure I’ve thought everything through: https://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide#Nozzle_Temperature

    The parts on calibrating the temperature and esteps are pretty close to my methods.

    #112816

    SteamPunkProgrammer
    Participant

    Seems the problem is the thermistor, as proved by checking it with a thermometer laser. Trying to figure out what the thermistor number is for this model, that will probably solve everything I’d assume haha

    #113017

    SteamPunkProgrammer
    Participant

    So, adjusting the thermistor helped a lot, no longer a mesh see through print, but the top still has that hash pattern on it. suspect this is some secondary issue.

    #113024

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Nozzle diameter or extrusion width could be set wrong, if the model dimensions are coming out relatively correct.

    #113037

    SteamPunkProgrammer
    Participant

    thats what I was thinking; but the nozzle diameter is set correctly. the filament diameter is correct as well.

     

    Its almost like the layers aren’t being smashed together like normal and are sitting on top of each other, I tried adjusting layer thickness (I know this probably wouldn’t fix it) but it had zero effect.

    #113046

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Can you post another pic or a few? Did you calibrate the esteps?

    The bottom might be squished (bed levelling issue) and you’re still under extruding. They should behave in a similar way.

    Ryan’s suggest about nozzle size is a good one too. You don’t have the slicer set to 3mm filament, do you?

    #113047

    SteamPunkProgrammer
    Participant

    Filament def set to 1.75, I tried setting the extruder multiplier to 1.1 and that didn’t even have an effect which is very strange to me. here is  a picture of how it looks right now.

     

    edit: I might try throwing a normal MK8 extruder on there to make sure the issue isnt with anything else, I did tune the esteps btw.

    Attachments:
    #113052

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That model is the right size? each axis is moving, say 10mm, not 20? What about extrusion width, This setting is usually buried and not always allowed to be changed but if everything is correct and somehow got set wrong it does this. so even if you say the nozzle is correct and filament is correct it still asks how wide to make each line, so a 0.4mm nozzle usually makes ~0.45mm line.

    #113071

    SteamPunkProgrammer
    Participant

    model is the correct size, slicer I use doesnt have an accessible ‘extrusion width’ the nozzle is .4mm should I try adjusting the nozzle size?

    #113076

    SteamPunkProgrammer
    Participant

    so, I tried a different nozzle of the same size (0.4mm) same result, so I cranked the nozzle size in the slicer all the way down to 0.2mm and now I have no gaps anymore, for obvious reasons, the gaps are filled by more lines. but why is my extruder not pushing enough to fill those spaces.

     

    I’ve checked and re-checked the steps per mm, and extruder output and it all seems fine, till I’m actually printing something.

    #113077

    Aaron
    Participant

    You’ll need to tell us what slicer you’re using then. Pretty much every slicer has the option to set the line width.

    #113079

    SteamPunkProgrammer
    Participant

    reluctantly its mattercontrol 2.0, havent had the time to put into cura or something to learn a new slicer.

    #113082

    Aaron
    Participant

    Ahh, I use matter control, but mostly for quick modeling. I know there’s a line width for perimeters and first layer, but not for infill, but it seems you’re only underextruding for infill.

     

    If you move the Z up + 10mm, it does indeed go up 10mm, right? May I ask what your current esteps are, and if they’re confirmed saved to the eeprom?

    #113086

    SteamPunkProgrammer
    Participant

    yup, checked the esteps over and over and over, their all good:  X-200, Y-200, Z-800, E1-200, E2-200

     

    Yea, its only under extruding during infill, no idea whats going on!

    #113099

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    1/32nd microstepping? Drv8825s w/ all the jumpers?

    Ryan has some slic3r settings linked (from his extruder shop page, iirc). They are slowish, but reliable. It would be worth a shot to limit the search space.

    #113101

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    BTW, the prusa slicer (forked from slic3r) has almost identical settings and has been working really well for me.

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