Anycubic Ultrabase Thermal Setting

New Home Forum Milled Printed 3D Printer -MP3DP Troubleshooting – MP3DP Anycubic Ultrabase Thermal Setting

This topic contains 3 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by  Jeffeb3 9 months ago.

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  • #89299

    J Smith
    Participant

    Hello… I bought and just received a Anycubic Ultrabase 220mmx220mm glass with heated bed from amazon for my MP3DP. It doesn’t say anywhere, either with the product in the box or online, which thermal setting to select in Marlin for #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED. I find that odd, surely it must be set to match whatever thermistor is on this bed, does it not? Would anyone by any chance know about this? Google isn’t helpful or I’m not searching for the correct keywords.

    https://www.reprap.me/anycubic-220x220x5-5mm-ultrabase-platform-with-heated-bed-for-3d-printer.html

    #89306

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Is this the printer it belongs on?

    https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-AI3M/blob/master/Marlin/Configuration.h

    This has it set to 1. 11 is really common too. I saw some replacement thermistors for the anycubic and they were 11, but maybe they were for the hotend.

    It’s not too dangerous to get it wrong. Assuming you’re not printing abs, I would try 11 or 1 and heat it up to 60C and measure the temperature with a thermometer.

    The funny thing about thermistors is they are self consistent, but different between copies. I print the same filament at different temps on my two printers. I think it’s because one is 10C off or so. I usually tune the temperature for new filaments, so it’s not a big deal, I will find the right number to set it so I get good results. You just want to make sure if you’re asking for 60, you’re not getting 100C.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #89324

    J Smith
    Participant

    Is this the printer it belongs on?

    https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-AI3M/blob/master/Marlin/Configuration.h

    This has it set to 1. 11 is really common too. I saw some replacement thermistors for the anycubic and they were 11, but maybe they were for the hotend.

    It’s not too dangerous to get it wrong. Assuming you’re not printing abs, I would try 11 or 1 and heat it up to 60C and measure the temperature with a thermometer.

    The funny thing about thermistors is they are self consistent, but different between copies. I print the same filament at different temps on my two printers. I think it’s because one is 10C off or so. I usually tune the temperature for new filaments, so it’s not a big deal, I will find the right number to set it so I get good results. You just want to make sure if you’re asking for 60, you’re not getting 100C.

    Thank you Jeffe. Just having the reassurance that I won’t blow something up by trying one setting over another is good enough to start. My laser thermometer shows 57-58 while the controller shows 60. I’m tuning it now but #1 seems to be ok. I found a youtube video that shows upgrading the bed on the Mega i3 with the one I bought and it does seem to be indeed the one you linked. Seems like this one heats up quicker, bonus.

    Do you have a post already on how you tune temperature for each filament? I’ve done the heat tower but curious to see how you go about it.

    #89337

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Nice.

    I basically use this guide to tune nozzle temps:

    https://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide#Nozzle_Temperature

    I sometimes also print an overhang test. That’s useful for getting temps and the part fan tested.

    I haven’t tried the bed temp calibration from this guide. I don’t like the thought of turning off the nozzle heater.

    For the bed, I usually increase it 5C if it’s not sticking. I don’t worry about closer than that.

    When I say I tune each filamemt, I’m probably lazier than many people. I don’t test for each spool amd if I get a different color of the same stuff, I usually won’t tune again umless I see a problem.

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