Any UK MPCNC owners?

This topic contains 239 replies, has 22 voices, and was last updated by  Derek Whittaker 2 months ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 181 through 210 (of 240 total)
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  • #77286

    BillW
    Participant

    Hi Dave,

    I’m in N E Lancs,

    I think your JCB router could be a bit on the heavy side if it’s the 1/2″ one.

    I work similar to Mr Sauntson regarding homing first, at the end of the gcode I have the Z raise to a safe height by altering the end of gcode for all jobs.

    Bill.

    #77292

    DaveW
    Participant

    Thanks Bill and Mr Sauntson.

    I am hoping to get my LCD delivered tomorrow so will try your methods out, plus also try and wire up a Z endstop plus either a relay or tplink wireless control of the router.

    Bill  – this is the Router I have borrowed for my initial tests- it seems to move around ok – but is extremely noisy – so will have to consider either an enclosure, a quieter alternative  plus maybe ear protectors as my next step!

    A898B56E-9312-49FF-8ACB-174940E77D31
    A090576B-7F89-40E1-A84D-C3E34D5A90DE

     

     

     

    #77296

    BillW
    Participant

    Ah, not the router I was thinking of, that should be OK.
    You can “Home” from repetier but not your Z without a S/W.

    I have my Z move to 65mm at the end of the gcode, my max Z movement is 70, I have a S/W at the top of the Z.

    Bill.

    #77342

    BillW
    Participant

    Z clicking.

    Apart from what Ryan has said.

    Check that the coupling is tight.
    Does it do it with the router removed.
    Loosed the leadscrew nut attachment screws, run it up and down.
    When it is at the top slightly tighten just two of the screws, if still making a noise loosed those two screws and tighten the other two.
    If it is still  clicking take the stepper off and move it up and down by hand, any tight spots.
    Check all bearings are moving on the Z assembly.
    It may clear itself in time.

    That should do for starters.

    Bill.

    #77371

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Hi Guys

    Mr Sauntson here, please call me Stuart

    Z axis clicking is usually found to be an interferrence between the tool mount and the Z| axis, I came across this while designing my vacuum shoe. To test, move the Z axis using RH until you hear the click, then look closely for any interference. it takes a while but hopefully a sucessful exercise

     

    regards

    #77420

    DaveW
    Participant

    Thanks both will try those things. It sounds like it is coming from lower than the coupling – but it did only come with 2 grub screws so I guess it could be that – another one on order.

    Will run some up/down speed tests to recreate the problem then try out the various things suggested.

     

    #77533

    DaveW
    Participant

    Noise control stage 1. Some improvement – especially in other parts of the house. More layers required to really cut down on the noise.  Also a good interim dust control problem until I sort out some vacuum extraction.

    A57BD341-30ED-4A28-B46D-39A771A52996
    7ACB0634-239E-4F98-9CFA-23A4A0B23F99

    Next problem is that I just got my first Communication timeout – printer reset detected.  So will try moving the spindle cable away from the Arduino and if that failes will try the MKS board next or try shielding the stepper cables.

    #77567

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Hi Dave

     

    I am sorry, I have not had any comminucations error so cannot offer any suggestions.

    #77568

    BillW
    Participant

    “Communication timeout”
    Were you running from SD card or computer.

    I’ll be interested to see how your enclosure turns out.

    Sorry if I missed reading it, what brand of filament did you use, I like the finish.
    Bill.

    #77589

    PaulC
    Participant

    Hi all,

    built a 3d printer during the summer and it has been a great learning experience printing pretty successfully now (I’m whispering that just in case my printer hears!)

    Now have the overwhelming desire to build a mpcnc.

    have ordered a bundle from V1 engineering shop in the states, I’ve ordered

    Full Graphic Smart Controller, Big

    Mostly Printed CNC Parts Bundle – 6A / RAMBo Dual Firmware & Wire kit

    I’ll keep my build small to start with.

    Haven’t bought any conduit yet but probably will go with 25mm OR from screwfix.

    I’ll wait until I’ve got the tube before starting to print parts.

    hmmm just though I’ve ordered the Rambo dual do I have to use end stops or does it work without? as I didn’t order any.

    let’s see how it goes.

    Paul

    #77595

    BillW
    Participant

    Paul, was it Dave Wood that bought from Screwfix then went for SS from ,,, was it metal media.

    And welcome, enjoy.

    Bill.

    Nearly right.
    https://www.metalmaniauk.com/Stainless-Steel/Tube/Stainless-steel-tube-304-spec-254-1-inch-OD-x-15mm-wall-mirror-polished.aspx

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #77612

    DaveW
    Participant

    “Communication timeout”

    Were you running from SD card or computer.

    I’ll be interested to see how your enclosure turns out.

    Sorry if I missed reading it, what brand of filament did you use, I like the finish.

    Bill.

    ‘Computer using Repetier Host.  I moved the cable and did a couple of small runs and didn’t get the problem -so possibly fixed.

    Filament for the Arduino case is Prusa Red PLA.  Quite pricey – especially the postage.

    ‘Just bought loads of rolls of Aldi Balco for only £12.99 a roll – seems to print pretty well.

     

    #77613

    DaveW
    Participant

    Paul, was it Dave Wood that bought from Screwfix then went for SS from ,,, was it metal media.

    And welcome, enjoy.

    Bill.

    Nearly right.

    https://www.metalmaniauk.com/Stainless-Steel/Tube/Stainless-steel-tube-304-spec-254-1-inch-OD-x-15mm-wall-mirror-polished.aspx

    Yes it was me who bought Screwfix conduit – but found the size to be too irregular – so went for Metal Mania which I am very pleased with. For me the overall cost was about double – about £60 for enough for a 300×300 build area.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #77621

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Paul, was it Dave Wood that bought from Screwfix then went for SS from ,,, was it metal media.

    And welcome, enjoy.

    Bill.

    Nearly right.

    https://www.metalmaniauk.com/Stainless-Steel/Tube/Stainless-steel-tube-304-spec-254-1-inch-OD-x-15mm-wall-mirror-polished.aspx

    Evening

    After reading this thread, Dave changed his mind and went for SS tubing as the conduit he got from Screwfix was inconsistent with the galvanised layer. I pointed him towards the similar tubing to what I used.

     

    regards

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #77624

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Hi Paul ans WELCOME

    You dont really need to have endstops on a CNC machine. Then you have the flexibility of placing the Bit tip in a position of your choosing. I would also make sure you have plenty of experience with 3d printing. This will aid you with building a CNC….

     

    regards

     

     

    #77643

    PaulC
    Participant

    Thanks BillW, Dave, and S Saunton for your advise I need it!

    I’ve taken a look at the metal mania site, think I’m taken in by that shiny metal already.

    Also will try the build without end stops to start with.

    Got notification bundle from V1 is on it’s way, so better start printing, hmmm what colour shall I go with??????   might look a bit odd in the sparkly silver I’ve been printing Christmas decorations in for the wife.

    Cheers for now.

    P

    #77645

    BillW
    Participant

    Paul, I’m the wrong one to comment on colour, my wife has corrected me many times on non matching clothing but I think sparkly silver would look good, maybe throw some dark gray in to look like carbon fiber “I’ve got a silver machine” (Hawkwind)

    Bill.

    #77661

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Hi Paul

    The Shiny Shiny Tubing does look very professional

     

    image-17

    As for colouring, I do think that Yellow and Black looks very good.

     

    image-11-128x72

    also with some printing practise and your printer being callibrated, the results hopefully will look similar to this

    image-22

     

    Regards

     

     

     

     

     

    #77674

    PaulC
    Participant

    Paul, I’m the wrong one to comment on colour, my wife has corrected me many times on non matching clothing but I think sparkly silver would look good, maybe throw some dark gray in to look like carbon fiber “I’ve got a silver machine” (Hawkwind)

    Bill.

    Hi Bill, Hmmm… maybe I’ll try some if I have some material left over.

    Thanks

    I’ll have a scan back through the thread, have you posted some pictures?

    Paul

    #77675

    PaulC
    Participant

    Hi S Sauntson,

    That’s done it SS tubing ordered.

    I like the Yellow and black it does look good,

    I’ve got some red left so printing test parts for now mainly to check dimensions, not sure they are going to look at smooth as yours though….. nice printing.

    Will post some pictures if they are not to bad.

    Paul

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #77680

    PaulC
    Participant

    Some pictures of test prints……

    Paul

    Test Prints
    Vertex K8400 modified to stabilise Z

    #77690

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Some pictures of test prints……

    Paul

     

    20181201_181016-1
    20181201_181103-1

    #77695

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Hi Dave W

    I do like your ear defenders and would match perfectly with my MPCNC.

     

    UPDATE  on my MPCNC

     

    Im very impressed with its accuracy using Ryans FW. I was awake a few night ago and doing my usual midnight research, Came across a thread using a 2.8w laser. After reading that several times I decided it would be a fun upgrade. So I found a 5.5w laser and have just finished researching with the aid of a youtuber ” some old guy coding”. The laser should be here in 14 days and I have already adjusted the FW to transfer D9 to PIN44, to allow the TTL- and TTL5+ to control the laser using M106 / M107. Ordered the 10 ohm Resistor and have printed a custom mount which I obtained from Thingyverse.

    I aim to make the laser and router quick swappable. My necxt project will be a smoke extraction device. Thinking of using an activated charcoal filter, but also considering a bathroom extractor fan..

     

    Ill keep you posted

    regards

    #77713

    DaveW
    Participant

    Stuart – sounds like a very interesting addition – should work well for thin wood and intricate cutting – although I’d be worried about using a laser without a really good enclosure,

    I’ve been wondering about how best to make an easier tool swapping setup –  I really like the look of the e3d tool swapping bracket – could be a good addition once they release it.  I also saw mentioned someone else on this forum the idea of having a separate Z axis for each tool – would just require an extra motor, lead screw, short pipes and some plastic bits.

    Made some progress on mine today – now have lcd working and am finding your approach of positioning with the lcd then starting Repetier works quite well – although it is a bit fiddly having to go into seperate menus for each axis – so might investigate additional buttons if it is possible.

    Also added a power switch – plus disconnected the red wire from my pc usb cable so that the Arduino turns off ok (may be different with your mks board).

    Next stage is to actually start doing some wood cutting!

    #77714

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Stuart – sounds like a very interesting addition – should work well for thin wood and intricate cutting – although I’d be worried about using a laser without a really good enclosure,

    Made some progress on mine today – now have lcd working and am finding your approach of positioning with the lcd then starting Repetier works quite well – although it is a bit fiddly having to go into seperate menus for each axis – so might investigate additional buttons if it is possible.

    Hi Dave

    You do not need to do anything for seperate axis, try this

    With Repetier Host DISCONNECTED

    Place the tip if your bit at the exact place you you want to start from X,Y,Z

    Go back to RH and connect

    You now have the tip set at X0 Y0 Z0 just like magic

     

    As for Laser Saftey, I am laser safety qualified as we use lasers all the time at work in the NHS

    My plan is to cut 3mm-5mm balsa/ply etc for RC jets

    regards

    #77841

    Bill
    Participant

    Paul, it’s worth noting that you ordered the dual end stop package, so if you want to run without end stops you’ll have to reflash the firmware. Otherwise you will not be able to move in the negative direction at all, and that’s not nearly as fun. 🙂

    #77850

    James Donnelly
    Participant

    Hi Stuart, and hi to all the other UK builders who have surfaced during this thread, great to see.    Congrats to all with the builds – lots of fun ahead.

    I’m down in Folkestone, Kent, and have been the proud owner of an MPCNC for a year or two now.   I went a bit crazy trying to use the beast for tons of different stuff for a while, but have settled into a pattern of just cutting/milling stuff!

    Brought back memories the talk about m3.5 screws, Screwfix conduit, wiring dramas, etc.  Being invited behind the counter by the nice lady, so I could roll their stock of conduit one by one across the floor to choose the straight ones.  Some very strange looks from tradesmen in the store 😀

    Like you Stuart, I went with a Makita clone, owing to the lack of a 240v Dewalt option.  Like you I followed the first cuts around with the vac, wondering why I couldn’t see any dust going up!  The penny drops when the dust appears on all the shelves in the workshop!  These things have quite a mighty down draft.

    I ended up having a two stage design for a dust shoe, with stage one being an air diverter, which the lower dust shoe attaches to (steps down to router cylinder diameter)  I don’t know how yours is working, but I put a rubber ring around the collet in the diverter, and have now got zero down draft, while the air exhausts to the sides.  The shoe itself is on and off via a wing nut arrangement, so I can also play chase the cut with the vac, and also change bits easily.

     

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    #78000

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Hi James

     

    Thank you for the kind words.

     

    My dust shoes is very effective

    IMG_3932

    I hope it is self explanatory, The main vacuum hose connects to a dyson. the air from the Makita Clone is not diverted. The 45mm hole below the spindle is that size to produce a venturi effect and also to reduce the amount of suction between the shoe and work material. The spring as very light tension and just holds the shoe base down with minimum force.

    IMG_3908

    With the dyson running there is zero dust and debris escape. It moves around very nicely and stays perefctly attached to the work material…..

    Having just finished the vacuum shoe, im thinking of designing something similar for my forth coming laser module, but think it will be drawn through an activated charcoal filter.

     

    regards

    #78072

    DaveW
    Participant

    Spent most of the day today adding some extra layers to my cabinet – but it is still quite noisy and it makes the whole unit very big – so may have to rethink – and scrap the cabinet and just live with the noise, which ear protectors do a good job at reducing for me – just hope the sound doesn’t travel too far.

    73A9EF30-409B-4D2A-ACE5-F1537117135C

    Think I will have a try at a dust collector like Stuart’s next.

    Got some very cheap bits today from toolstati0n – only about £1.50 each – so will be interesting to see how long they last.

     

    #78077

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Hi Guys

    Dave….. with regards to cnc bits and usage. Oringially I thought the bit needed to rotate as fast as it could and this would cut better. WRONG! After much reading and testing. I now run my router at its slowest speed and it cuts perfectly. This as reduced the noise significantly and I only wear ear defenders as im getting old…… I run my bits (cheap chinese bits) at 450=600 mm / Minute at the lowest speed at a depth of 1 = 1.5mm and its cuts very well. I read that running the bits too hard and fast only produces excess heat and quickly dulls the bits. TRUE!

     

    I have come to the conclusion that these cnc’s are similar to 3d Printers and the learning curve is a steep one.

     

    regards

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