Any UK MPCNC owners?

This topic contains 239 replies, has 22 voices, and was last updated by  Derek Whittaker 1 week, 1 day ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 151 through 180 (of 240 total)
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  • #76020

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Hi Dave

    I used to work at Broomfield Hospital so am familiar with the distance from Cambridge.

    Totally agree with what you say. Mine is 900 X 600 and once adding the extra needed for the gantry and router is closer too 1200x 900. In my case a nice size and is big enough for my RC Aircraft and Jet related hobbies. I’ve been cutting some wing and tail ribs as well as some wing Tips. I’m Still in the learning stage. I thought 3D printers took some learning, but this CNC project takes far more. The Miriad of Bits is mind blowing. Speed Of movement, RPM of router and materials all plays a part.

     

    Keep intouch….

    #76024

    DaveW
    Participant

    Hi Dave

    I used to work at Broomfield Hospital so am familiar with the distance from Cambridge.

    Totally agree with what you say. Mine is 900 X 600 and once adding the extra needed for the gantry and router is closer too 1200x 900. In my case a nice size and is big enough for my RC Aircraft and Jet related hobbies. I’ve been cutting some wing and tail ribs as well as some wing Tips. I’m Still in the learning stage. I thought 3D printers took some learning, but this CNC project takes far more. The Miriad of Bits is mind blowing. Speed Of movement, RPM of router and materials all plays a part.

    Keep intouch….

    Just got some more pipes from Screwfix – and they seem to vary between 24.5 and 25 and are not regularly round.

    Think I will printout the 25mm parts (with M4 modifications) and see how I go.  If when constructed it doesn’t work well then will replace Screwfix pipes with more expensive Stainless Steel ones.

    #76026

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Hi Dave

    I understand it is the galvanising layer on the Screwfix pipes which cause the errors you have found. Also it is seem welded which is also a way of introducing errors. You will see that I went for SS pipes and asked before bung what the variations were. Luckily they arrived pre cut and very accurate. Although still seem welded I then placed the welds to the bottom so the bearings would not run along any seems……..

    I also checked for straightness…..

    regards

    #76028

    DaveW
    Participant

    Thanks for the info on Screwfix pipes irregularities – have just ordered 1″ SS from  Metal Mania –   All pre-cut to length apart from the legs (as too short to be cost effective – as anything below 400mm comes to the same price).  All came to just under £60 – which isn’t too bad – shame I also spent £33 on Screwfix pipe – oh well I am sure I can find something interesting to make out it of!

     

    #76030

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Good news with regards to SS turbine, when you say 1″ is that imperial or 25.4mm metric.

    either way make sure you have the correct printable parts and your printer is calibrated. It all helps with the ease and accuracy of the finished MPCNC

     

    regards

    #76032

    DaveW
    Participant

    25.4mm Metric – Metal Mania didn’t seem to do 25mm SS.

    Will hopefully have all of the prints done before it arrives.

     

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #76033

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    25.4mm Metric – Metal Mania didn’t seem to do 25mm SS.

    Will hopefully have all of the prints done before it arrives.

    Superb answer Sir……..

     

     

    You may like to consider printing in smaller layers. The finish this is gives is well worth the extra time.

    i can assure you that Metal Mania do cut extremely accurately and Well worth the expense

     

    regards

    #76216

    DaveW
    Participant

    Have switched to .3mm layers, 35% Gyroid infill and 3 perimeters – printing still fairly quick.

    While waiting for the printing to complete thought I would have a go at the electronics.

    Already have a Mega 2560 and Ramps Board and some A4988 drivers, plus a new 12v 5a supply

    Put the boards together, checked voltage and adjusted driver voltage to match my 1.7A motors, all went ok – once I realised that I had only put half of the pins of the driver boards in correctly.

    Downloaded a small example serial port sketch to make sure the Arduino worked ok – all ok.

    Then downloaded MPCNC813_GLCD_T8 and then uploaded to Arduino – got some Marlin messages ok.

    Was about to turn off and attach motors when smoke started coming out of the board – I think it mostly emanated from the A4988 drivers.

    Have ordered some drv8825 from Amazon in case it is some combination of the A4988 and Marlin.

    Also tried ordering the Rambo and LCD from the v1 shop – but unfortunately the postage come to about £67!

    Full Rambo seem pretty expensive from elsewhere too – so will order a mini rambo from ebay as next step if the drv8825’s also don’t work.

    #76217

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Hi Dave

     

    Sorry to hear about the magic smoke.

    For electronics I went with an MKS 1.4 Board as you don’t need any extra boards, it as power included, got it off eBay from China for £19 I think including the stepper motors but went for the upgraded DRV8825 in the end.

    Similar to this

    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F153229623959

    regards

     

     

    #76290

    DaveW
    Participant

    Thanks for the info – have ordered from Amazon some 8825s (£9.99), plus a MKS1.4 Board (£18.99) and a 2400 LCD (£9.99) as suggested.

    The good news is that I have subsequently found out that A4988’s and DRV8825’s have the potentiometer on the opposite sides and I had used a diagram showing 8825s – so had inserted them the wrong way around.   The 2 remaining A4988’s that I hadn’t yet plugged in seem to work ok now without any smoke using a test sketch- so hopefully I haven’t broken anything else.

    Next step is to try and see if I can get any motor movement out of Marlin with just two motors and no LCD or SD for now.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #76300

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Hi Dave

     

    congratulations, I don’t use the components to orientate the items, the pins are labelled and a far easier method. Don’t forget the steppers need to be wired in series. If you need any info just call (Madingley) 210

    hope to chat soin

     

    regards

    #76554

    DaveW
    Participant

    Making good progress on prints and electronics all motors working ok with the DRV8825 drivers in the initial 3 driver setup currently still on the Arduino Mega and Ramps 1.4 board – as the A4988 smoking issue doesn’t seem to have affected the other components.

    Have made up some dupoint extension/splitter cables for the X and Y steppers – not sure how long to make the cables for my initial 300×300 build space as I didn’t spot cable lengths on the calculator.  So may have to trim or extend them later. Initial lengths I have created are one set of  1020mm+1540mm,  plus another set of 1350+2060mm  (not sure whether X or Y will need the longest).  The Z axis currently has only 1000mm at the moment so I presume I will have to create an extension for that too.

    The cut pipes have arrived today from Metal Mania.  Really impressed by the quality – seem to be within 0.1 mm of 25.4mm all around and cut lengths are perfect.  The good/bad news is that the metal is much harder than the Screwfix conduit – so for the legs which I didn’t ask them to cut have found it really difficult cutting them (on reflection I should probably have paid the extra £15 to get them to cut all of parts). Initially tried the pipe cutter but that seem to go blunt before one cut.  So tried 3d printing a measure Mitre and hacksawing them – but couldn’t really get very a straight line and have some nice blisters too.  So might have to try and use an angle grinder.  Or may just settle for the Screwfix 24.5 pipes for the legs as I guess the width and consistency of the very short leg pipes isn’t anywhere near as critical for the axis and they are much easier to cut.

    All parts now delivered – so all I need now is to do about another 30 hrs 3d printing. Even though the PRUSA MK3 seems almost faultless I don’t yet have the confidence to leave it going overnight or while I am out – so suspect this is going to take a fair few more days.     I also have a Flashforge Finder that is gathering dust at the moment – so might start that printing too in parallel tomorrow to speed things along a bit.

    Really enjoying  the build process so far and can’t wait for the initial CNC testing.

    #76772

    DaveW
    Participant

    Printing all done, table made, so the fun is about to start.

     

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #76808

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Excellent news.

     

    take you time and enjoy, the more precisely you build the easier to get it setup and working.

    i designed my own suction foot as these CNC routers can be extremely messy.

     

    Any advice, Im here…..

     

    regards

    #76810

    DaveW
    Participant

    Making progress. The parts seem to fit together ok – such a fantastic design.

     

    The biggest problem is that I can’t get the tool mount to print completely straight (slightly bent at the bottom) – tried twice on the prusa – the second time much slower on smaller later height – but same result – not sure what’s making it lean over. Will try putting it together and see if it affects things – if so will try reprinting on the Flashforge which only moves the bed in the z direction to see if that helps – or maybe redesign it so it can be printed flat without loads of supports.

    I like the sound of your suction foot – I was thinking something like this would work well

    https://ooznest.co.uk/product/cnc-dust-shoe/

    Also have to rework the stepper motor splitter cables and I just reaslised that despite your warning I wired them up in parallel rather than serial!Bent tool mount

    #76816

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Hi Dave

    yeah, the wiring was one thing is struggled with to begin with but then I drew a simple diagram and it was far easier. If you would like, I could print the tool mount for you, if I start it over might it would be ready to post AM.

    my suction shoe was a mishmash of some off thingyverse, I tried a few off thingyverse but none worked.

     

    This is is my design and can contest it works superbly with zero mess

    image

    Attachments:
    #76824

    DaveW
    Participant

    Suction shoe looks excellent – will have to sort out an appropriate vacuum and print something similar myself.  Did you cut the transparent material on the MPCNC?

    Thanks for the offer of printing out the mount – I will have another couple of goes tomorrow – and if they both fail I may well come back to you to take it up.

     

    #76825

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Ofcourse, yes the clear acrylic was cut using the MPCNC. I have just started a new project and this time a 4m RC Glider. been digitising the plans this weekend ready for cutting.

     

     

    Again on the MPCNC, which was the main reason I made one…….

    #77011

    DaveW
    Participant

    It moves!  Now to work out how to use it!

    Really impressed at how well the centre part all goes together – had to take it apart a couple of times to correct bolt directions etc.

    B23F659A-FF2D-4D82-A021-01D7481A9B90

    ps/ managed to print the tool bracket better by rotating it 90 degrees on the x axis –

    6D055E45-A20D-40A3-A5CA-52A03D9B6C0B

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #77026

    DaveW
    Participant

    First drawing worked ok – next stage I guess is testing the scale and calibration.CBDD4674-D20D-4D89-8216-B7FFE4038F81

    Lots to learn.  What is your emergency stop button connected to – the reset on the Arduino?

     

    #77036

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Hi Dave

     

    CONGRATULATIONS. Always a relief to see it work.

    good to see you started with the now compulsory Crown.

    I Wired the emergency STOP inline with the powerswitch. Trust me, during the

    learning phase it as been a god send. Saved the machine on several times through wrongful

    programming on my part.

    I also wired in the Z Stop for zeroing the bit tip.

    When you start cutting, think about having a sacraficial board, another fine addition

     

    As for calibrations, if you used the suggested hardware and have the correct firmware loaded, you should need no adjustmenst. I did the 100mm x 100mm movement test and it was spot on.

     

    regards

     

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #77137

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Evening Gents

    Well after a few weeks of tinkering and cutting for the sake of cutting, I have decided my next project will be a

    Red-Bull-Blanik-Glider

     

    I have just finished digitising a set of plans and hopefully the finished aircraft will have a wingspan of around 4 Meters. Having said that, with the cam software I use it would be very little hassle to even make it at 6 or even 8Meters……..

    Now i need to obtain a shed load of ply, spruce and balsa wood.

    I have also started designing the decals and will cut them on my vinyl cutter or as a thought, attach a rotary knife to my MPCNC and away we go……..

    The canopy will be made using last years Project which was a vacuum former.

    regards

     

    P.S A massive dose of gratitude for your design……. Cheers Ryan

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #77187

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    4 Meters!?

    #77205

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    4 Meters!?

    That is correct Ryan. Using the MPCNC to cut the ribs, and formers.

    I may even just scale it by 1.5 or 2 and end up with 6 or 8 meter…..

     

    regards

    #77233

    DaveW
    Participant

    Making progress on initial tests with my new MPCNC – really impressed Ryan with the rigidity – have mounted a quite heavy old JCB router on it and doing some initial tests – setting the speed to the lowest setting of about 8000 RPM.

    Taking quite a while to get familiar with Repetier Host and Fusion 360.

    Initial problem related to setting zero position – I think I eventually figured out that I needed to create a script to send once I had manually found the top of the material – with

    G92 X0 Y0 Z0
    @isathome

    Have then been able to successfully ream out a hole in some foam and also some wood – using Fusion 360 and MPCNC Mill Laser post processor,  then Repetier Host to send the gcodes.

    The problem I am having however is that all works well for the first print – apart from at the end as soon as the print is finished and the power drops to the steppers the Z axis seems to drop about 5 mm – possibly due to the power loss and the weight of the spindle.

    Is that normal behavior or am I doing something wrong – because what I really wanted to do was run one print, then immediately run it again and for the bit to just follow the same path – with nothing to cut out the 2nd time.

    I am sure I will figure it out – maybe I want to power left on to the steppers at the end of the print somehow by searching the forum.

    Only other problem I am having is the occasional clicking when raising and lowering the Z axis – I presume it must be something loose.

     

    #77239

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    The problem I am having however is that all works well for the first print – apart from at the end as soon as the print is finished and the power drops to the steppers the Z axis seems to drop about 5 mm – possibly due to the power loss and the weight of the spindle.

    My firmware should hold the steppers for 6-15minutes (depending on the version I just recently upped it). Check to see if you are powering them off in your gcode (M84).

     

    Only other problem I am having is the occasional clicking when raising and lowering the Z axis – I presume it must be something loose.

    Look for interference, and check your plunge and rapid speeds for your z axis. Could be physical or electrical.

    #77269

    DaveW
    Participant

    Thanks Ryan – found a setting in the printer config – disable motors after ‘job/kill’ – which I had read as ‘job kill’- turning that off seems to have done the trick with the dropping of the Z on my foam tests.

    May well have to consider some sort of Z probe or supported parking position if I find the dropping after 6-15 mins an issue

    Will investigate the clicking further – must admit that I mainly heard it during test when the spindle wasn’t running – so hopefully it is not interference.  I don’t currently have shielded cables – but may well try that if I can find a suitable place to source them.

     

     

    #77274

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    so hopefully it is not interference.

    It is usually bad rapid values. Limit your rapids to 8mm/s on the Z and work your way up until you skip a step. 10 is plenty fast for me.

    #77280

    DaveW
    Participant

    Great thanks – lots for me to learn – which will hopefully also be useful for 3d printing too!

    I did an M503 – and got:

    20:21:31.885 : echo: M203 X190.00 Y190.00 Z30.00 E25.00

    So I have put an M203 Z8  into my ‘Set home’ script – I will see if this does the trick.

     

    #77283

    S Sauntson
    Participant

    Hi Dave

     

    i have this process when using Repetier Host,

    i firstly, use my touchscreen and zero z, as you know I have the z endstop setup for is process. Once I have Z zeroed, And the bit placed at the corresponding start position to the GCODE, usually left side and the front of the material. I Astro repetier host and connect to my MPCNC, this sets the RH software to X0, Y0, Z0 and the away I go,

     

    im sure there must be a quicker or easier way but this is a way that I find easy…….

     

    regards

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