July 28, 2018 at 12:06 pm #64888
Following my successful few days, I now have started printing the Controllerboard Enclosure. With further tasks in mind. Does anyone know how to connect a Nextion 3.2TFT to a ramps 1.4???
I also am about to start installing the power connectors and so need to explore even more wiring.
I think that’s all for today. Great progress and should be soon ready to install the firmware, more reading
Attachments:July 28, 2018 at 1:44 pm #64894July 28, 2018 at 3:27 pm #64906July 28, 2018 at 4:09 pm #64909
Just finishing building my table.
The only thing that concerns me is the wiring in series of the steppers,I just cant get my head around it.
I have uploaded the software and tested the steppers in Repetier and they all work ok- now for the bomb disposal wire cutting,I admit I am lost,any help appreciated.July 28, 2018 at 4:42 pm #64910
just follow this diagram later on in this thread.. It’s important to ignore any colour but follow the diagram for connections wire pathways only
The attached diagram is correct but you MUST ignore any wire colours and use it only for wiring part ways. If wiring really causes you an issue get the wires from the shop and save yourself a lot of time and frustrations.
Attachments:July 28, 2018 at 8:18 pm #64918
just follow this diagram
It really as simple as that, I’ll try and guide you the best i can, can we talk on the phone. Would be so easy
Just remember that the wire colors are arbitrary. Use the pinout in the diagram and mark your actual colors on it.July 29, 2018 at 3:12 am #64923July 29, 2018 at 5:34 am #64932
Those are warnings. If the warnings are in your code, you should understand them (they usually are pretty important). Since these are in U8glib, there’s nothing you can do about them.
TL;DR, it’s fine.July 29, 2018 at 6:11 am #64934
Those are warnings. If the warnings are in your code, you should understand them (they usually are pretty important). Since these are in U8glib, there’s nothing you can do about then.
TL;DR, it’s fine.
TL;DR, it’s fine? I’m lost with this replyJuly 29, 2018 at 6:15 am #64936
Sorry, there were a few typos. At far as the warnings, it’s fine to ignore them.July 29, 2018 at 6:32 am #64939
Maybe a senior moment… I think one motor needs to have one winding crossed-over from the other to reverse its direction of rotation. Per the diagram shown both will rotate in the same direction…July 29, 2018 at 7:22 am #64942
Maybe a senior moment… I think one motor needs to have one winding crossed-over from the other to reverse its direction of rotation. Per the diagram shown both will rotate in the same direction…
You are quite correct and I have adjusted information accordingly.
As stated several times, any diagram is for wire pathways only and any colour scheme must be ignored
regardsJuly 29, 2018 at 7:31 am #64944
Like this…July 29, 2018 at 7:42 am #64946
Deleted as information wrong
regardsJuly 29, 2018 at 11:36 am #64970
Post deleted to prevent confusion,
REMEBER any wiring diagrams MUST be used for wire pathways ONLY and ignore any colour scheme
regardsJuly 29, 2018 at 11:55 am #64974
Look at the two diagrams that are already here. One coil needs to be reversed. The pretty diagram has them all the same way, the hand drawn one has one coil reversed marked “the rev”.
So in the pretty picture if you changed one green and black connection that would do it.
The hand drawn one is just split coil 1 is the blue and red in the pretty picture, black and green is equivalent to coil 2.July 29, 2018 at 12:25 pm #64978
Post removed to save confusion.
RegardsJuly 29, 2018 at 12:40 pm #64980
I have now to the best of my ability done a drawing from the information given,
I have checked through several times and hope this is right and helps someone
I have just altered my wiring and tested and it is now correct YAY!
DO NOT TREAT COLOURS AS GOSPLE, IT IS CONNECTIONS ONLY
Attachments:July 29, 2018 at 12:57 pm #64986
Sorry that you are so frustrated. The hand drawn one is my diagram and has never really caused many issues before and after all this time no other better diagrams have popped up. I offer the wires for sale, I have them custom made. If you are that frustrated spend the $10, problem solved. I have spent many hours trying to make it as easy as possible for everyone, if you come up with a better diagram that does not include colors I would love to include it on the site.
Your message comes across super aggravated. The fix is super simple, you swap two connections. If you do not understand what two please show us your wires and we can help you. Diagrams do not work because of the color issue, as you can see I didn’t catch the issue in the other thread you asked about this in, so show us your wires and we can try and help.July 29, 2018 at 12:59 pm #64988
Your revised diagram looks correct, but because many just blindly follow the colors I can not use it. There 100% is no standard color scheme for the steppers that is followed.July 29, 2018 at 1:15 pm #64991
A million apologies about my frustrations. Electronics is not my strongest point and so takes my feeble brain some understanding. Please don’t think I was in anyway accusing, I was just super frustrated after spending so many hours of work, making it as neat as possible
regardsJuly 29, 2018 at 1:27 pm #64992
Understood, we are all just trying to help you get cutting.July 29, 2018 at 3:47 pm #65015
I really apologize for all the angst and confusion but, as we’ve all seen, it would not work for MPCNC, as originally shown. Ryan is entirely correct about there being no color standardization, so trying to instruct other builders to connect wires according to color is useless. While the difference between right and wrong in this case is just a couple of connections, it is confusing enough that I second Ryan’s suggestion to purchase the wiring harness and be done with it. Though a retired electrical engineer and knowledgeable of what needed to be done, I found it confusing enough in my “elder condition” to simply buy the wiring harness for my Texas rebuild… and it worked perfectly, first time.July 30, 2018 at 6:46 am #65063
AmiloParticipantJuly 30, 2018 at 11:48 am #65089
I now have an X, Y & Z axis moving as should. All have been tested YAY!
if only Postie had delivered the 5mm – 8mm coupler and stepper 16T gears, I would have finished. Anyway, This hopefully short delay will give me time to learn how to do some test cuts.
I already have my first DXF file which I will be cutting, but to begin with I’ll do something simples…….
Regards and Respect GentsJuly 31, 2018 at 2:59 am #65177
Hey Sauntson, Glad you got your wiring sorted. I’m going to go the route of auto squaring and use cat 5e/6 wiring so I’m going to have fun and games too but different fun and different games when I get started.
Anyway I got jealous of the quality of your prints and my old blue PLA prints cracked as they were printed two fast and two jerky. My corners cracked when I tightened them and my z mounts broke as I had the wrong coupler which was causing the threaded rod to be spun eccentrically like an egg beater, which massively stressed the whole gantry when turning the motor.
Anyway I got frustrated with the quality of my prints this weekend as they have been getting worse and worse. I thought it was because I switched to PETG for a friend project but when I switched back to PLA I was still having issues. Then I refocused on the spool dry box £5 from Asda. I realised it is quite a big source of friction on the spool so I cut up an old chopping board and drill some 8mm holes in the right places to attach bolts and bearings I had spare from the MPCNC build. I now have one of the spool rollers that you can print but I didn’t have a working printer so I made it quicker and dirtier by hand. I also turned my Cura slicing settings down to fine. 0.1mm layer height.
all this seems to be paying off. last night I set off a print for the z top motor mount and I found it this morning perfectly formed on the build plate. I always check the print starts well and then I leave it in a detached building to complete over night (no one put at risk)
Anyway thanks to this thread I’m back on my game in the 3d printing world. soon ill be cutting too at this rate.
looking forward to seeing your first cuts.July 31, 2018 at 4:01 am #65179
Thank you for the comments about my printing. I’m sorry I seem to have caused you some frustration by my print quality.
From my experience of all things 3D Printing, my only comment would be 0.1mm resolution is not always the best result, I did many tests and the quality of 0.2mm was better and naturally quicker than 0.1. I used to print everything in 0.1 thinking the parts would look better………
I shall wait with interest re: auto squaring. I read about that but thought slow and steady. I may upgrade later if I need such an action.
I also have my “working spools inside a box with some silica gel beads and reduced all friction by carefully lining up the Filement mid height on the spool and also using a guide tube made of PTFE to the printer. This reduced friction to almost zero. Inside my dry box I have a fool mount which rotates very freely. In the beginning I read so much about filament absorbing moisture etc.
If you’d like to all over 3D printing let me have your contact details
regardsJuly 31, 2018 at 4:07 am #65181
Today postie delivered my penultimate item for my MPCNC, these being the 16t gears
I now have one more item to receive. That’s the coupler. I guess I could print one but having these delays seems to help as I get time without rushing.
Today I plan on installing those tears, checking / adjusting the stepper driver voltage and again researching how to actually run the software for a CNC….. I see many attach a pen first time and Draw Ryan’s Crown…….
I have downloaded his file and think this could be a good start. Saves me having a massive mistake and routering gouges into the build board.
any advice greatfully received
Attachments:July 31, 2018 at 5:01 am #65185
Just checking. My stepper drivers DVR8825 are set @ 1.67v, Is a little excessive.
These are my motors details
- Manufacturer Part Number: 17HS19-2004S1
- Motor Type: Bipolar Stepper
- Step Angle: 1.8 deg
- Holding Torque: 59Ncm(84oz.in)
- Rated Current/phase: 2.0A
- Voltage: 2.8V
- Phase Resistance: 1.4ohms
- Inductance: 3.0mH ± 20%(1KHz)
I see from reading of many threads on this site that the Voltage is a direct lick to the rated current / Phase of the motor. From my understanding Using drivers DVR8825 the calculation I found of V x A divided by 2
12v x 2Amps =24watts
24watts / 12volts = 2A
Vref = I_TripMax * 8 * Rs
Vref = 2 * 8 * 0.1 = 1.6V
Am I correct in thinking I should set it to 1.6v on a 12v system or lower, much lower?July 31, 2018 at 8:35 am #65189
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