Another Lowrider build from the Netherlands

New Home Forum LowRider Your Builds – LowRider Another Lowrider build from the Netherlands

This topic contains 32 replies, has 10 voices, and was last updated by  Barry 2 days, 9 hours ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 1 through 30 (of 33 total)
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  • #110973

    Bas Goossen
    Participant

    Hi All,

    At first let me make a big thank you to Ryan for creating and sharing this creative and unique design with us. I really like the full support of the longest axis without the need of an expensive linear guide.

    Pics or it didn’t happen:

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/i5HvjfhpYZ15N7xb8

    Meanwhilst i’ve added a pencil mount and endstops (dual on Z and Y) and the device is drawing fine.

    However i have got one issue/question:

    I’m using the Marlin firmware for now (as long as it will suit my needs) with a Ramps 1.4 Mainboard to “print” from SD. But how can i set the workpiece zero point?

    My approach for now is to move the device over to the zero point and reset the device. With a pencil (on z=0 touching the workpiece) this is working ok’ish. However once i reset the machine the z axis falls down, so any other workpiece zero than z0 will fail. For milling this approach won’t work. Also when i support the Z axis during reset it’ll start zeroing the Z-axis upon “print” if there was a router bit on, plunging it through the workpiece…

    Further than that, i’m amazed already by what the machine can do. Started the build on Saturday (printed Wednesday through to Friday) and on Sunday it was able to plot, just amazing.

    Best Regards,

    Bas

    • This topic was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by  Bas Goossen.
    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #110984

    Barry
    Participant

    I’m jealous for the floor!  My floor is 3/4 flooring plywood over an inch of oak barn boards.  It’s seasonally flat-ish!  Is that a sheetmetal table top?

     

    For your zero issue, if you’re using repetier to run the machine, under Printer, Printer Settings, Scripts.  Click the script drop down, go to Script 1 and add G92 X0 Y0 Z0

    Now when you’re jogging the machine to where you need it to go with the manual controls, and get it to where you want zero to be, you can click the 1 on the screen and it will set the xyz zero point.  As long as you don’t reset the machine, this will stay.  When you want to go back to zero, just send a G90 X0 Y0 in the g-code window above the manual controls.  It will go back to the zero point at whatever speed it was moving last.  So you might want to throw a S with a sane number after the Y0 part.  I usually do G90 X0 Y0 S1000 .  Just make sure the endmill will clear everything between where it’s at and the zero position!

    script1

    Attachments:
    #110987

    thesfreader
    Participant

    For the G92 command, if you’ve recompiled your own version of marlin, you can define it as a macro (don’t remember exactly in which confoiguration.h file) that appear as a menu in the reprap display (if you have one).

    #110992

    Bas Goossen
    Participant

    @barry: the table is a temporary table, it’s a kind of thin melamine so nothing fancy about it ;-). Looks kinda ok on the picture though. I’ll build a table for it with a size of 250x125cm (7’x4′ roughly).

    Ok i’m not using repetier at the moment, just the SD card and controls from the display. However with this info and the suggestion by @thesfreader i might be able to solve the issue.

    S is spindle speed in RPM right? can i omit this since i’m not controlling the spindle by software?

    ” Just make sure the endmill will clear everything between where it’s at and the zero position!”
    Why is this necessary? since the zero position of the device Z is at the bottom sheet (as low as it go’s) this will seldom be possible.

    #111002

    Bas Goossen
    Participant

    It seems the command is already defined in a custom menu item in Configuration_adv.h:

    #define USER_DESC_1 “Reset All Coordinates”
    #define USER_GCODE_1 “G92 X0 Y0 Z0”

    So i’ll try using that when i’m back at the machine.

    #111087

    Barry
    Participant

    Whoops, I meant F  My bad!  G90 X0 Y0 F1000  feedrate.  😣  The reason being if the last move was a Z move, which are pretty damn slow, glaciers move faster when moving across the table at Z speeds.

    • This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by  Barry.
    #111117

    Bas Goossen
    Participant

    Thanks guys, the suggestion worked. I can now set the workpiece home!

    Aha i’ll add a sensible feedrate there.

    Just plotted a somewhat more complex drawing and i am very pleased with the result!:
    heart

    The only thing i noticed was that the speed on xy moves varies a lot. Sometimes it is getting very slow (especially in corners, but not all corners) and sometimes it is blazing fast. This results in a much longer plot time than anticipated. Estlcam gave it a plot time of 27 minutes. whilst in reality it took about 58 minutes. Any suggestions or explanations here?

    Video that shows the variable movement (and my “unfinished” machine in action):
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/d33hfZepgq9a3GAw5

    The slow parts are where it makes the “vibrating / buzzing” sound.

    • This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by  Bas Goossen.
    • This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by  Bas Goossen.
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    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #111124

    thesfreader
    Participant

    My guess would be a mix of max acceleration and jerk/linear advance : target Feedrate doesn’t matter if you can’t reach that speed in a short move.

     

    And the ESTLCam estimator doesn’t know what max acceleration your CNC is conbfigured with (in Marlin probably).

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #111125

    Rob
    Participant

    When you are ready to cut you can make some plates for another dutch builder 😉

    #111127

    Bas Goossen
    Participant

    @Rob of course, i’ll be ready next week (router is on its way)

    #111137

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    At this rate, you’ll have more CNCs than bicycles in the NL.

    #111142

    Bas Goossen
    Participant

    Wel we really have a lot of bicycles here, so that’s got to be a big challenge 😉

    #111143

    Bas Goossen
    Participant

    But on topic, for auto squaring whould it make sense in a cnc machine to square the z axis to max-z? Since having the z running all the way down does not seem handy right?

    #111234

    Bas Goossen
    Participant

    Yesterday i’ve finished the dual endstop set-up with self squaring. I inverted the homing direction on Y and it now homes to max X correct and square. Tonight i’ll add dual Max-Z endstops and try homing to that, since i don’t like the gantry to home to z-min for various and obvious reasons.

    #111591

    Bas Goossen
    Participant

    Machine is now nicely squaring the Y and Z axes, Z to the top and Y to MAX-Y. working like a charm, i also increased feedrates for initial zeroing and added some custom Menu entries in the motion menu to Zero XY and to Zero Z independantly.

    Also i’ve been changing the language used from Printer language to CNC language!

    Very happy with the set-up so far. Tuesday my HandRouter will arrive (Makita RT0700C), so the real fun can start!

    20190830_163314

    Video of Homing/Squaring:

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z95izR7Zr77ANKeAA

    Yesterday i packed all the electronics in a nice custom box with fan and tuned up the Stepper drivers to 1.5A (engines can handle 2.5A continuously).

    Ready for the router to arrive!

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #112291

    Brent
    Participant

    Very nice work.  I’m intrigued with some of the stuff you’ve done for the lcd display as a lot of the folks here are running linked over the lcd from what it seems.  I’m total beginner with the modifying for the marlin/gui side of the lcd but I’d love to be able to customize the options I do have. I’ll follow along as it seems you know what you’re up to.  Have fun with the router.

    • This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by  Brent.
    #112313

    Bas Goossen
    Participant

    It was one of my requirements when i started building to be able to run without a laptop. I’m an embedded system engineer from background, so changing the UI is not really a problem for me. Although i’m a bit rusty when it comes to C and C++. However if you need some help on things you want changed in the marlin UI i’ll help where i can.

    Best regards.

    Ps another test run with a home depot grade 6.35mm bit from tonight:

    20190906_220450

    You just have to love the way Fusion360 is able to calculate toolpaths B).

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #117167

    Bas Goossen
    Participant

    After some more testing and learning i find myself very happy with the possibilities and accuracy of the lowrider.

    IMG-20190929-WA0008

    Now it is time to continue the project and take advantage of it’s full potential. Staring off with the build of a dead flat 5×9 foot torsion box tabletop.

    20191008_222755

    The tabletop is designed with a spacing in the front which falls 80x20cm in machining area. The goal of this is to keep a possibility to machine very thick or on the face of longer stock.

    The idea now is to put it all on a sturdy cabinet (with finally some tool storage) and on wheels, since otherwise it will be impossible to move such a large workstation.

    Keep you guys posted with further progress.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #117187

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    WOW!

    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #117817

    Bas Goossen
    Participant

    Table top is almost finished, it requires 2 more layers of PU coating. I’m very pleased with the result. It is within 0.3mm flat (being if you pick a random spot on the table, there is no other spot that is either .3mm highter or .3mm lower. Kept my precision to 1 playing card thickness when building hence the .3mm.

    Glue up (bottom sheet):
    20191009_202247

    After glueing both the top and the bottom sheet i made the front face cutout and gave the edges a nice roundover:
    20191012_212627

    Started applying the first layer of (heavily thinned) PU on Saturday. Now each day i can apply one other layer (dry time is 24h).
    20191013_202356

    The cabinet and bottom carridge are now a WIP:
    20191013_202348

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #117862

    Bill
    Participant

    It is really looking nice. 🙂

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #117880

    Jamie
    Participant

    It is within 0.3mm flat (being if you pick a random spot on the table, there is no other spot that is either .3mm highter or .3mm lower. Kept my precision to 1 playing card thickness when building hence the .3mm.

    How do you measure this? Especially over such a span, I would not know how to make this measurement.

    #117881

    frosty
    Participant

    How do you measure this? Especially over such a span, I would not know how to make this measurement.

    I think you can do this with a long enough (and straight-enough) straight-edge. But I’ll defer to the experts.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #117885

    Bas Goossen
    Participant

    I’ve got a true straight edge of 300cm, and a few decks of playing cards. The playing cards measure 0.3mm of thickness. I can put the ruler anywhere on the table, an nowhere i’m able to slide a playing card under the ruler.

    That’s my simple measurement, i’m sure some industrial experts will be able to prove me wrong ;-). But within my reach of measurement i’m within 1 playing card thickness off, of true flat.

    Top coat starts shining:

    20191014_224102

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #117903

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I’ve got a true straight edge of 300cm, and a few decks of playing cards. The playing cards measure 0.3mm of thickness. I can put the ruler anywhere on the table, an nowhere i’m able to slide a playing card under the ruler.

    Somewhere I’ve seen flattening woodworking tablea done this way, but they additionally put winding sticks at each end to look for twist. You can have some twist and pass the straight edge test. I don’t think it matters with the LR, since the machine is going to follow the twist anyway. I think that was probably from one of the Christopher Schwarz books on workbenches.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #117904

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Also, that is a beautiful table.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #117905

    Bas Goossen
    Participant

    @jeffeb3 twist will always show in the diagonal lines over the table. This is indeed measured. Winding sticks are mainly used on smaller objects where twist is less evident to be observed. The table top has a tiny fraction of twist that shows by the one diagonal allowing a slight shim of light under the ruler in the center, and the other diagonal showing a fraction of light under the tips of the ruler. This falls within a 0.2-0.1mm range as i can just slide a piece of thin paper under the ruler (with friction).

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #118081

    Bas Goossen
    Participant

    And the table is finished (for now, in the future i’ll add doors and drawers.) Now i’m waiting for some parts i need (longer cables) to move the LR2 to its new home.

    20191016_212035

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #118085

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Even if your drawers end up being boxes, you should use the CNC to make them.

    That monster looks really awesome. I can’t wait to see what you build with it.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #118088

    Bill
    Participant

    I’d be so disappointed the first time I accidentally drove my bit below the spoil board if I had that nice of a table… Not that I’ve ever done that, mind you. 🙂

    1 user thanked author for this post.
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