- September 29, 2017 at 4:18 am #44953
Could someone kindly comment if the following specs for an entry level 3D printer kit would be suitable to print the plastic parts for the Lowrider CNC ( and maybe later on, also perhaps the MP3D Printer)?
No. of Heads: 1, Nozzle Diameter (mm): 0.4, Build Volume W x D x H (mm): 120 x 140 x 130 Printing Temperature: 210 °C, Printing Technology: FDM, Filament Diameter (mm):1.75, Weight:4kg, Material type: PLA, Heated Bed: No, Build Plate: Plastic, Layer Thickness: (microns)100 – 300 microns, Platform Leveling: Manual, Dimensions (cm): 34 x 31 x 32, Connectivity: SD Card, USB, Slicing Software: Cura, File Input Format: STL, OBJSeptember 29, 2017 at 5:05 am #44959
I think you will manage to print parts for mp3d when you buil it you can start printing other machines but somebody need to confirm if all parts will fit in that dimension.September 29, 2017 at 5:46 am #44965
The two things that are difficult are the build volume, and the non-heated bed. Ryan might now the biggest part for the Low Rider, but I think they are all small enough to fit. The cold bed will be tough though. The heat helps the prints stick to the build plate, and as the plastic cools, if there are any differences in thickness, the layer will warp, and pull off of the bed. So you’ll need the bottom layer to be near perfect. For your sanity, finding one with a heated bed would be a smart choice.
The other things that could hurt you wouldn’t be specs. You’ll want the printer to be pretty square (in all three dimensions), and rigid. The design is somewhat forgiving though.September 29, 2017 at 6:16 am #44974
Thank you for the replies.
I checked with the printer supplier and they said there wasn’t a hot bed option for this entry level model. But they also said that if i could make the machine, i could probably fit a hot bed myself. I am going to try to research that…He also mentioned LCD Resin machines for the masses but i think that conversation was getting above my pay grade…September 29, 2017 at 6:21 am #44976
If you don’t have 3D printer yet tell us what is your budget we find somethingSeptember 29, 2017 at 8:02 am #44985
My budget was based on wanting to build a Lowrider CNC and then figuring that if i could get a low priced 3D printer kit to make the plastic parts for the Lowrider , i might have a bit more fun ( no pain, no fun) and learn some more.
I might only ever use the printer to make the Lowrider parts but i thought i might end up making a MP3D printer that could then make better parts or or …think of this plan as a meandering stream rather than a targeted missile
I found the 3D kit printer with the specs I listed for GBP99 ( USD133) or GBP120( USD160) with 2 spools (500g) of PVA, and I can pick it locally off the shelf, so quick and easy to get.
I thought the production size might be an issue (?), but now the hot bed issue has kindly been pointed out…I can try to see if i can get a hot bed (?) but would be good to know if it can print a large enough size for the Lowrider plastic parts(?)September 29, 2017 at 8:07 am #44987
For that price you can easily get something better then that. You wait maby2-3 weeks so what you can think in that time about building table or collecting hardwareSeptember 29, 2017 at 10:01 am #44996
Okay, it would still be good to know if the 3D printer I spec’d out has the capability to print large enough for the Lowrider CNC.
But if you can recommend another 3D printer that you have experience of, is around the same cost, you know is good, and can do this job, sure, that would be great and really appreciated…
I could order and get the other parts in the meantime.September 29, 2017 at 10:57 am #45002
I’m not sure what printer that is, but I would not buy a printer in hopes of making another printer (the MP3DP).
The parts will easily fit in those specs you can verify buy putting the parts in your slicer of choice.
200x200x200 is the minimum standard I would ever get, anything under that is cutting too many corners. A heated bed is pretty vital unless you know what you are doing already. Getting the cheapest option will 100% cost you more money in a short time. Both of my cheap ones died in short order and I have been making printers for many years now and feel I know what I am doing, they really are using second rate parts every where and are difficult to assemble. I know it sucks to hear this but spend a bit more and get a better one.
There are tons of budget options now the c-10 seems to be everywhere with good reviews but the super deluxe top of the line Prusa MK2 just went on sale and is not that much more if you buy the kit, and the even better MK3 under $800 shipped US and that is in my opinion the best printer available by far.September 29, 2017 at 1:28 pm #45021
i have the printer in the link below, which I got for £100 when it was on a higher sale, it’s actually a good printer for the price once you have spent the time learning its kinks and tendencies. I used this to build the MPCNC and only had a couple of tolerance issues, which were easily fixed.
i have been using this printer for over a year and used it to build a scale model Bismarck hull which is 2.51m long, 36cm wide and 19cm high.
You must use this printer printing tests and tweaking it until you are happy before printing anything worthwhile.September 29, 2017 at 3:39 pm #45040
For like 350 ish you could get all yhe parts off the store to build a mp3dp. Go with the rambi mini. Youll be better off .You might still need a frame. I didnt see it on the store.October 4, 2017 at 9:57 am #45343
Thank you for the replies, I really appreciate the help and have tried to do a bit of research so as to respond
Yes, the MP3DP would cost about $350 plus the milled pieces. It would be a preference since i thought its the only machine i have seen and heard ( youtube) that didn’t sound like a whiney baby, the MP3DP sounded like a real power machine. The MP3DP would also have an advantage in providing me with back up/replacement parts for the Lowrider that I definitely do want to get and of course vice versa potential spares for the MP3DP, that seems like a good thing.
Milled pieces though for the MP3DP are a problem as to get them would mean getting Lowrider plastic parts to make a Lowrider to be able to make the milled parts for the MP3DP and then i would have to wait for a Lowrider part to break in order to feel/prove i had had a good reason to get the 3D printer.
The Anet A8 you linked to seems to be a bargain and very popular. You seemed to have been one of the lucky ones. Quality does seems to be hit and miss on what i might receive and most seem to mod it to get it working to an acceptable level. If I was one of the unlucky ones, a few reels of filament to get it going, a few repairs, a few mods, a few more grey hairs, might not make it seem like quite such a bargain. But if it worked right out of the box…win win
The Bismarck sounds great…did you build it hull plate by hull plate?
The printer i was looking at was from the iMakr and its called Startt. I called them about the heated bed and it doesn’t have it and can’t be added. They suggested I contact their tech department to explain to me why it doesn’t need it, I did, but they never got back to me.
I get your other points, but i don’t need a printer for any reason apart from wanting to learn about it and to print Lowrider parts…
Also waiting for Rambo board update on Lowrider CNC Bundle page?
Ryan confirmed the parts for the Lowrider would fit. I dont have a budget, or at least i am trying to get to the point where i get what the real cost would be to end up with a reliable working workable printer that at the minimum would allow me to make useable replacement parts, or upgrade parts for the Lowrider.
Yep, you got the key…”For your sanity…”
I did wonder though how the heat works since the higher the print gets, the further from the heat source. I guess some heat is better than none, and the heat does not have to be constant over the height of the build.
Thank you everyone for your commentsOctober 4, 2017 at 10:10 am #45344
Whats your budget?
I have an extra frame made from 1/4 mdf. Pay the shipping cost and its yours.October 4, 2017 at 11:02 am #45345
That sounds great, thank you.
Only issue might be that I am in the UK. I might be able to get a US address to send it to if sending it to the UK was a problem?October 4, 2017 at 11:11 am #45346
Where in the UK? It might get costly.October 4, 2017 at 11:18 am #45348
I am close to London. If you could give me an idea of weight and size, i could try to see if i can set it up from this end. Where are you?October 4, 2017 at 11:42 am #45349
Claremore Ok, 74019 not sure of the weight, probaby 2 pounds with the box. 16x16x2 inch is my best guess on the size of the box.
Another option is a maker space/fab lab. Being close to london you shoyld be able to find one.October 4, 2017 at 12:29 pm #45350
Apart from sourcing the plates, I think an other sourcing problem you may have is to get hold of the conduit/tubing, as 25.4mm OD tubing may be not easy to get this side of the pond…October 4, 2017 at 1:37 pm #45351
I will see what i can find out at this end.
Seemed to be no problem finding 25.4mm OD tube in the UK, lots of sources, at least from a google search. I will call a couple of places tomorrow to make sure its a standard product and not special order.October 6, 2017 at 2:00 am #45428
Not looking good to organise shipping from you to me at this end. Doesn’t look like I can find a painless way for you to do it. Thank you for the offer, so close…
Checking out the other options you suggested but replies still pending.October 6, 2017 at 2:09 am #45429
So in researching 3D printers, I got contacted about another kit 3D printer with the following spec. Comments about capability would be appreciated as it really helps to learn. In this case it has heating platform, larger print area, i think it has a metal frame, and not much more cost than the prior one i posted.
Reprap Prusa i3
Number of print heads: One, Print technology: Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Structure volume: L 200xW 200 xH180 millimeters 7200 cubicmeters, Printing resolution: 100 millimetres, Layer precision 50-100 micrometers ( optional), Consumable diameter: 1.75 millimeters, Material compatibility: PLA/ABS, Nozzle diameter: 0.4 millimeters, Type of printing files: .X3G.
Working enviroment temperature: 15-33C, Structure platform temperature: Printing ABS: about 110C, Printing PLA 50-60C, Storage temperature: 0-38C
XY Axis: 11 micrometers, Z Axis: 25 Micormeters, Speed of motion axis: 30 mm/s. 100 mm/s. Recommended nozzle movement speed: 35-40 millimeters/second, Nozzle extrusion flow: About 24 cubic centimeters/hour,
Software package: Cura 14.0 of Chinese version ( in SD card)
Type of input file: stl, gcode
USB/SD card printing
Self heating platform. Automatic heating platform at the beginning of heating. It can ensure not edge warping occurs during printing and provide stronger adhesive force.
Includes one roll of PLA filament (250g)
Zero interupt printing technology
It can provide printing resolution of 100 micrometers while not affecting print speed.
Replicator G softwareOctober 6, 2017 at 5:41 am #45430
If you cant build a mp3dp, then id just buy the orginal mk2s. Its worth every cent. Ive had zero problems with mine and it just works like youd expect it to. Best of all it holds its value really well.
You’ll spend more time and money getting a cheap on to work than you will making the stuff you want to make.
1 user thanked author for this post.October 6, 2017 at 6:54 am #45434
I hear you…but a couple of weeks ago i knew probably a bit more than the average Johnny about CNCs and 3D printers, but not that much more. Had no pressing interest or need.
Then I came across the Lowrider CNC, a casual glance across a crowded youtube. I realised in a moment that my life wasn’t complete without her. 3D printing was trying to flirt with me out of the corner of my eye, but i knew no way was she going to become part of my xxxxing life.
Now of course a few days later, i have succumbed. I see no way i can continue without a threesome. But, the beauty you are tempting me with now, the original mk2s, is five times the price of the cheap tart i listed the details for. Although of course much safer, I am not sure i am ready for your upmarket habitue of Fifth Avenue yet, nor my new roll of begging on street corners to feed my new addiction. Maybe a few days from now…October 6, 2017 at 7:07 am #45436
Well a little tip, people are putting theirs up on ebay, so they can get the new mk3. So do an ebay search and save it. You might be able to snag one at a better price. Once november runs around i think the prices on used will get cheaper.October 6, 2017 at 7:24 am #45440
Nice, i like it…
But did a quick search now and no special offer Fifth Avenuers. But a lot of tarts were lined up and kicking high…i was strong though….October 6, 2017 at 7:34 am #45441
Yes, they are asking to much right now. Just keep an eye out. Theyll drop their prices closer to novmeber.October 6, 2017 at 7:47 am #45444
Remember, I am in the UK, we pay more and get less anyway here. But no upmarket ones on UK Ebay at all, not a one. I will be watching, i will try to keep strong, but i worried I might succumb and end up in a two and a halfsome and only then later in a three and a half…October 6, 2017 at 9:07 am #45453
Sorry for not replying sooner.
I have done no modifications to my Anet A8 it worked pretty much out of the box, the most important part is getting the bed levelled and getting the software parameters in CURA correct, after that it was pretty much good to go.
Yeah my Bismarck hull was done plate by plate, 24 plates worth, each plate taking 8 hours to print.October 6, 2017 at 6:12 pm #45473
My first printer was a wanhao duplicator i3. They have a few newer versions. It’s a good learning printer. You have to print very slow, because the extruder motor isn’t very good.
The only funny thing I see in that reprap printer is the x3c files. I thought that was a MakerBot thing.
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