2nd Build started in TX/Texoma

New Home Forum Mostly Printed CNC – MPCNC Your Builds – MPCNC 2nd Build started in TX/Texoma

This topic contains 18 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  Rick 5 days, 11 hours ago.

Viewing 19 posts - 1 through 19 (of 19 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #103624

    Rick
    Participant

    IMG_20190617_102902-1

    I started out as recommended and built small, nearly the default sizes on the calculator.  Maybe a hair bigger, I forget.  Great advice!  I jumped right in to aluminum since that is what I needed it for but obviously I had a lot to learn along the way.  The smaller size did make that easier.  I’m glad I listened.  Typically, honestly, I don’t and dive face first in to things haha.

    Eventually upgraded to dual endstops and z probing.  Now that was a quality of life improvement.  I was having to measure and adjust 1-3 mm out of one of the x/y rails each time I powered it on.  Now I can just click a button and go!   (I’m blaming myself for even needing to adjust it.  I assume sloppy build, maybe I could have eventually gotten that out with careful tension bolt adjustments.  Unsure.)

    Now its time to go big or go home.  I’m going to try a 4’x4′ build and see how much accuracy/rigidity I lose.  If it’s too much, no big deal.  It’ll likely be mostly used to cut very thin plastic to test new designs before I cut them out of metal on the smaller ones.  Maybe some lasering.  Hopefully some wood, which is the primary motivation for the larger size.  I’m not quite ready (space) for a lowrider yet but that is probably coming next. I also cut all the rails to have both 2’x2′ and 4’x4′ with this one.  After trying to flex a 4′ length of conduit I’m really not that concerned about it though, that stuff seems rigid a f!

    I couldn’t help but print my own parts this round to get it how I wanted.  I think they’re looking pretty great.  I messed up the color scheme on some parts.   I meant to mimic your black/red build with black/silver but I mistakenly printed some parts in black that should have been silver.  I’ll roll with it lol, maybe redo them later.

    Anyway, wanted to express my thanks for the design, the open nature of it, the forums full of great advice etc.  Pictures of the start of a second build seemed like a good place to include that. Future builds/bits/etc will always be purchased from your shop to show my appreciation, other than printed parts maybe just so I can do custom colors.  The print quality on your parts was great though.  I went that way on my first build.

    Unimportant notes but if anyone is curious as I go and add more pics:

    • Prusament Galaxy Black PLA
    • Prusa Silver PLA
    • 4’x4′ outside dimensions
    • 3/4″ EMT Conduit, coated with “Dry Moly”. Unsure if that’ll help/hurt anything.  Honestly I did it for looks.
    #103654

    Rick
    Participant

    (blanking this out since it was a duplicate)

    #103657

    Tim
    Participant

    I’ll be interested to see how  the dry moly works out. It does look nice!

     

    Also the prusa is too rich for my blood but I do love that sparkly filament! My buddy has one and that thing spits out some perfect prints…

    #103658

    Rick
    Participant

    I have five of them at work doing parts for this new build.  Overkill but I only have that many because of work.  Great machines though.  Very “click print and forget it”.

    That sparkly filament is amazing at hiding layer lines.  I had ordered their galaxy purple too but it ended up being a bit more….fabulous than I wanted for this machine.  I wish I had the galaxy silver for that layer hiding effect.  Each machine comes with the “plain” silver so this was a good chance to use some up.

    The dry molly seems to bond pretty well.  I’m mostly curious how quickly the bearings wear tracks in to it back to bare metal. I went ahead and coated the threaded rod with it too.  We’ll see if I regret any of that after a while.

    I think it was your post (and profile picture) that made me decide to go bigger!  To make an arcade cabinet like you did.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #103659

    Tim
    Participant

    I think it was your post (and profile picture) that made me decide to go bigger! To make an arcade cabinet like you did.

    Hah, that’s awesome! Be sure to post up pics when you get it done. I’ll be very interested to see what direction you go with that

    #103671

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    What is dry moly, and what do you use it for?

    Looks great.

    #103672

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Typically, honestly, I don’t and dive face first in to things haha.

    None of us do… 😛

     

    Anyway, wanted to express my thanks for the design, the open nature of it, the forums full of great advice etc. Pictures of the start of a second build seemed like a good place to include that. Future builds/bits/etc will always be purchased from your shop to show my appreciation, other than printed parts maybe just so I can do custom colors. The print quality on your parts was great though. I went that way on my first build.

    Awesome, high five

     

    The parts look great, cool to hear you are making another with plans for another after that. Satisfied user!

    #103681

    Rick
    Participant

    What is dry moly, and what do you use it for?

    Looks great.

    It’s a dry lubricant that sprays on like spray paint.  It’s a mix of graphite and something else I forget.  It’s supposed to be a decent alternative to oil/grease on things that you don’t want attracting dust like oil and grease can.  I’m sure someone here knows more about it than I do.  It’s just something I have access to and thought it might look good while serving some kind of purpose.

    Easy to find on amazon etc, I haven’t spotted it in any home depot like stores though.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #103683

    Tim
    Participant

    What is dry moly, and what do you use it for?

    Looks great.

    It’s a dry lubricant that sprays on like spray paint. It’s a mix of graphite and something else I forget. It’s supposed to be a decent alternative to oil/grease on things that you don’t want attracting dust like oil and grease can. I’m sure someone here knows more about it than I do. It’s just something I have access to and thought it might look good while serving some kind of purpose.

    Easy to find on amazon etc, I haven’t spotted it in any home depot like stores though.

    You can use it as a laser marking tool too. An alternative to Thermark/Cermark.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #103686

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Ah. I mixed graphite powder with wax to make something similar for lubricating my table saw. A spray would have saved a lot of work. I have also used yhe wd40 branded dry pubricant, which I think is PTE (teflon) in alcohol.

    #103687

    Rick
    Participant

    IMG_20190617_191327

    This image made me laugh so I had to share.  That entire surface/MDF is the size that my new machine will be.  That thing sitting to the right of the printer is the first “cnc machine” I ordered to experiment with this hobby.

    I do believe I have scaled up a bit

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #103690

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    You can carve a tiny coffin for it 🙂

    #103711

    Barry
    Participant

    I had ordered their galaxy purple too but it ended up being a bit more….fabulous than I wanted for this machine.

    Hahahahahahahahaha!!

    White balance is a hard mistress.

    I used a similar product called dry slide.  We used it on the ways of an industrial saw used to cut rafter stringers.

    #103757

    Rick
    Participant

    I got impatient so I did a half build just to get an idea on how springy the rails would be at this size.

    Not bad at all, but it’s definitely there.  Doubt I’ll be doing any precise 2.5d carving with this setup.  Should work fine for cutting things though and that is its primary purpose.  I’ll get a better idea with the final build when the table is properly supported, feet secured etc.

    Tearing it back down to coat the rest of the rails this weekend probably.

    god this thing looks cool scaled up this large lol

    I cut the Z rails to be the length that matches the uncut allthread (or t8?  I forget).  Decision made out of pure laziness.  I might trim it all down later.  I’ll never need that height.

    IMG_20190618_120843

    #104144

    Rick
    Participant

    Psh crown test. Had to do a 3 foot mushroom test instead

    IMG_20190623_114001

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #104176

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    1up!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #104626

    Rick
    Participant

    Very close now.  Obviously I got lazy once it came time to do a table.  I just want this thing running.  I’m hoping this weekend I can start drilling holes in my spoilboard and play with it a bit. I might pretty up the table with some trim or something later on.

    I still have a lot of cable management to figure out and I need a rail for my z cable chain to ride on.  On a smaller size it just rode in the air so to speak without any issues.  That won’t work on a 4′ span.

    With everything put together, feet secured down etc etc, it is much more sturdy at 4′ than I was expecting.  If I put it dead center and push down on it I can force some flex in it but not much.  If I try to twist the end of the router the only movement I can feel is from a loose bearing someplace.  I’ll go around tweaking the tension bolts soon once I’m 100% satisfied that it’s squared up.

    I’m confident this size will handle aluminum sheets/plates without any issue.  “2.5D” or anything requiring extreme depth precision, maybe not.  Really does feel more sturdy than I expected though so it might.

    P.S. No instruments were harmed in the making of this CNC.  I’m turning my “music room” in to my “makerspace” slowly, but the CNC machine will be moved to the opposite side of the room once its done.  A safe distance from all of my instruments.

    IMG_20190628_224625

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #105825

    Rick
    Participant

    This thing is taking me forever.  Partially from a lack of time, mostly because I keep thinking of “one more thing” I want to do to it before I’m finished.

    Got the vac shoe printed and installed

    IMG_20190711_004116

    I understand the idea is you get the end stops close enough and fine tune in software but for reasons I can’t even fully explain I just didn’t like that.  So I did some brainstorming and modeled up/printed an adjustable endstop holder that is easy to fine tune physically.

    IMG_20190711_021352
    IMG_20190711_015707
    IMG_20190711_015722

    Two piece print.  One holds the endstop and a nut, the other is a housing with a bolt and spring.  Mount it to the rail and use the bolt to make fine adjustments in/out.  Looks like it gives me about 3mm+ of movement, plenty for its purpose.  Mount it to the rail “close enough” and fraction/mm adjustments should be easy to do.

    No idea if this is just a thing that bugs me and no one else but if anyone else wants it I’ll throw it up on thingiverse.

     

    #105831

    Rick
    Participant

    In the unmounted pictures I had the switch installed backwards.  There’s a notch in the housing to make sure the arm won’t catch on it.  I flipped it around before I mounted it to my machine and that picture shows it oriented correctly

Viewing 19 posts - 1 through 19 (of 19 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.