29×29" stainless rebuild, air blast, superpid, and dual endstops

New Home Forum Mostly Printed CNC – MPCNC Your Builds – MPCNC 29×29" stainless rebuild, air blast, superpid, and dual endstops

This topic contains 20 replies, has 9 voices, and was last updated by  Todd Graham 5 days, 12 hours ago.

Viewing 21 posts - 1 through 21 (of 21 total)
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  • #102238

    Bruh
    Participant

    Work in progress 🙂

    I’m rebuilding my original 29×29″ build found here: https://www.v1engineering.com/forum/topic/29×29-burly-bruh-from-nc/. The rails are the same 0.065″ wall stainless tube.

    I’ll be doing a couple of things differently this time around:

    The SuperPID is still on the way. These things take forever to ship if you buy them direct (over 3 weeks and still waiting)!

    In an attempt to eek ever so slightly more rigidity out of the machine the parts were re-printed using Ziro chopped carbon PLA. The carbon PLA requires a slightly bigger nozzle. I used a 0.6mm nozzle and with layer heights varying from 0.3mm to 0.4mm (so much quicker than smaller nozzles!). A few of the parts with very thin walls (e.g. the ziptipe mounts) had to be modified to accept the larger nozzle.

    I really wish I’d built and wired my original machine for dual endstops. I was too lazy to rewire the machine and never got around to it.

    IMG_20190601_202625
    IMG_20190601_202657

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #102286

    Brian
    Participant

    Looks good.  I’d really like to know how that SuperPID speed control works out.  Thanks for sharing, I’ve never heard about it before.

    #102320

    kd2018
    Participant

    I really wish I’d built and wired my original machine for dual endstops. I was too lazy to rewire the machine and never got around to it.

    I did from the get go, but I’ve been contemplating lately how I’d like to trade them for hard limits instead. Thinking about cutting some clamps for the rails with a set screw for fine adjustment… But I’m feeling to lazy to rewire for series or jack with the firmware , lol

    #102354

    Bruh
    Participant

    I did from the get go, but I’ve been contemplating lately how I’d like to trade them for hard limits instead. Thinking about cutting some clamps for the rails with a set screw for fine adjustment… But I’m feeling to lazy to rewire for series or jack with the firmware , lol

    Using the dual endstops doesn’t preclude you from adding clamps to the bars, does it? I’d thought (potentially incorrectly) that you could still add clamps and initialize the machine against them. I’d gotten so far as to use G38.x codes for auto corner finding during my turners cube project. Sucked to still have to pull the machine square on every cut.

    #102359

    kd2018
    Participant

    I suppose not. But why use both?

    #102430

    Tom
    Participant

    I’ve seen others listed somewhere.

     

    #110096

    Bruh
    Participant

    Finally got the time to get a bit more work done on the rebuild. Other projects have been take up too much time and garage space 🙂

    X/Y wiring completed and spoil boards installed. I should really pull the base and install it on small MDF risers to keep the leg height down for a more rigid machine but I’ll probably leave it as-is.

    IMG_20190818_175040

    • This reply was modified 4 weeks, 1 day ago by  Bruh.
    • This reply was modified 4 weeks, 1 day ago by  Bruh.
    #110129

    Nice looking bed. I am at the point of making decisions about work holding. I checked Incra for t-track and might go with it. Where did you source yours? I like the blue.

    #110165

    Bruh
    Participant

    Nice looking bed. I am at the point of making decisions about work holding. I checked Incra for t-track and might go with it. Where did you source yours? I like the blue.

    @scrounge79 https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71118-Double-Cut-Universal-Predrilled/dp/B07FF1Q16Q

     

    #110230

    Bruh
    Participant

    Pulled the machine base to build a proper drop for the bed. Cut recesses for the legs so that I can drop the machine lower if needed.

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    #110235

    TomW
    Participant

    Good looking build. Please share your progress and some cuts.

    Thanks!

    #110263

    That’s a good price and seem to be fairly reliable. I need the 36″ length.

    I’m having a fight with Amazon though. Half of my orders get refused because of address validation monkey shines. It drives me nuts. And even when the order goes through, sometimes they just get lost.

    Why my address is complicated is another story, but at least it saves me money from impulse buying. I’ll try to get these then. Thanks again. Very nice looking machine.

    #110413

    Eric Kender
    Participant

    Good looking build for sure. I’m considering the same type of bed with hold-downs. I’m assuming by the bottom shelf that you use foam for the spoil board and sandwich it between the workpiece and the bed. Is that correct?

    #110423

    Bruh
    Participant

    Good looking build for sure. I’m considering the same type of bed with hold-downs. I’m assuming by the bottom shelf that you use foam for the spoil board and sandwich it between the workpiece and the bed. Is that correct?

    @ekek3d I use scrap mdf or plywood for spoil boards. The foam is mostly for testing out programs in something forgiving before moving up to wood/metal. Foam is a bit too soft for anything that requires accuracy in the Z direction as the foam would compress when clamped.

    #110627

    Bruh
    Participant

    Made a little more progress over the week. Dual endstops set up and dialed in to about as accurate as I could get with a tape measure on diagonals.

    On to the fun bits! I modified Ryan’s PID sensor mount slightly to fit the smaller sensor housing that comes with the superpid. Bench tests were good from 5k to max rpm via pot control.

    Testing the sensor: https://imgur.com/PAyf4pv
    Testing RPM control: https://imgur.com/PVvfyQ0

    Sensor mounted and wired up.
    IMG_20190824_083603

    Sensor wire routed out alongside the AC power line.
    IMG_20190824_083615

    New router next to the old one.
    IMG_20190824_083829

    Might have to get creative with routing the extra cables and air hose.
    IMG_20190824_124400

     

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #110728

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That poor 660 all strapped to the board in the rpm test that looks like you are about to torture it! hahahaha

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #110789

    Bruh
    Participant

    A bit more progress. Standoffs for the rambo/superpid printed. Started to put together a control box for all of the extra wires and power supply.

    IMG_20190825_081835
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    IMG_20190825_204252

    #112474

    Bruh
    Participant

    More/less complete. Need to tidy up the cable management but other than that everything is functional.

    IMG_20190907_231905
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    IMG_20190907_230422

    • This reply was modified 1 week, 2 days ago by  Bruh.
    • This reply was modified 1 week, 2 days ago by  Bruh.
    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #112560

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That is cool. Have a look at how JellyBox uses there acrylic. It would be insane to label and diagram that like they do.

    #113383

    Bruh
    Participant

    Quick and dirty cable routing for the gantry. All that’s left is to shim the router and it’s ready for test cuts.

    router

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    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #113409

    Todd Graham
    Participant

    Looks great, following thread.   Will order a superPID if this works out well for you.

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