29×29" stainless rebuild, air blast, superpid, and dual endstops

New Home Forum Mostly Printed CNC – MPCNC Your Builds – MPCNC 29×29" stainless rebuild, air blast, superpid, and dual endstops

This topic contains 28 replies, has 10 voices, and was last updated by  Bruh 1 month, 1 week ago.

Viewing 29 posts - 1 through 29 (of 29 total)
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  • #102238

    Bruh
    Participant

    Work in progress 🙂

    I’m rebuilding my original 29×29″ build found here: https://www.v1engineering.com/forum/topic/29×29-burly-bruh-from-nc/. The rails are the same 0.065″ wall stainless tube.

    I’ll be doing a couple of things differently this time around:

    The SuperPID is still on the way. These things take forever to ship if you buy them direct (over 3 weeks and still waiting)!

    In an attempt to eek ever so slightly more rigidity out of the machine the parts were re-printed using Ziro chopped carbon PLA. The carbon PLA requires a slightly bigger nozzle. I used a 0.6mm nozzle and with layer heights varying from 0.3mm to 0.4mm (so much quicker than smaller nozzles!). A few of the parts with very thin walls (e.g. the ziptipe mounts) had to be modified to accept the larger nozzle.

    I really wish I’d built and wired my original machine for dual endstops. I was too lazy to rewire the machine and never got around to it.

    IMG_20190601_202625
    IMG_20190601_202657

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #102286

    Brian
    Participant

    Looks good.  I’d really like to know how that SuperPID speed control works out.  Thanks for sharing, I’ve never heard about it before.

    #102320

    kd2018
    Participant

    I really wish I’d built and wired my original machine for dual endstops. I was too lazy to rewire the machine and never got around to it.

    I did from the get go, but I’ve been contemplating lately how I’d like to trade them for hard limits instead. Thinking about cutting some clamps for the rails with a set screw for fine adjustment… But I’m feeling to lazy to rewire for series or jack with the firmware , lol

    #102354

    Bruh
    Participant

    I did from the get go, but I’ve been contemplating lately how I’d like to trade them for hard limits instead. Thinking about cutting some clamps for the rails with a set screw for fine adjustment… But I’m feeling to lazy to rewire for series or jack with the firmware , lol

    Using the dual endstops doesn’t preclude you from adding clamps to the bars, does it? I’d thought (potentially incorrectly) that you could still add clamps and initialize the machine against them. I’d gotten so far as to use G38.x codes for auto corner finding during my turners cube project. Sucked to still have to pull the machine square on every cut.

    #102359

    kd2018
    Participant

    I suppose not. But why use both?

    #102430

    Tom
    Participant

    I’ve seen others listed somewhere.

     

    #110096

    Bruh
    Participant

    Finally got the time to get a bit more work done on the rebuild. Other projects have been take up too much time and garage space 🙂

    X/Y wiring completed and spoil boards installed. I should really pull the base and install it on small MDF risers to keep the leg height down for a more rigid machine but I’ll probably leave it as-is.

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    • This reply was modified 3 months ago by  Bruh.
    • This reply was modified 3 months ago by  Bruh.
    #110129

    Nice looking bed. I am at the point of making decisions about work holding. I checked Incra for t-track and might go with it. Where did you source yours? I like the blue.

    #110165

    Bruh
    Participant

    Nice looking bed. I am at the point of making decisions about work holding. I checked Incra for t-track and might go with it. Where did you source yours? I like the blue.

    @scrounge79 https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71118-Double-Cut-Universal-Predrilled/dp/B07FF1Q16Q

     

    #110230

    Bruh
    Participant

    Pulled the machine base to build a proper drop for the bed. Cut recesses for the legs so that I can drop the machine lower if needed.

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    #110235

    TomW
    Participant

    Good looking build. Please share your progress and some cuts.

    Thanks!

    #110263

    That’s a good price and seem to be fairly reliable. I need the 36″ length.

    I’m having a fight with Amazon though. Half of my orders get refused because of address validation monkey shines. It drives me nuts. And even when the order goes through, sometimes they just get lost.

    Why my address is complicated is another story, but at least it saves me money from impulse buying. I’ll try to get these then. Thanks again. Very nice looking machine.

    #110413

    Eric Kender
    Participant

    Good looking build for sure. I’m considering the same type of bed with hold-downs. I’m assuming by the bottom shelf that you use foam for the spoil board and sandwich it between the workpiece and the bed. Is that correct?

    #110423

    Bruh
    Participant

    Good looking build for sure. I’m considering the same type of bed with hold-downs. I’m assuming by the bottom shelf that you use foam for the spoil board and sandwich it between the workpiece and the bed. Is that correct?

    @ekek3d I use scrap mdf or plywood for spoil boards. The foam is mostly for testing out programs in something forgiving before moving up to wood/metal. Foam is a bit too soft for anything that requires accuracy in the Z direction as the foam would compress when clamped.

    #110627

    Bruh
    Participant

    Made a little more progress over the week. Dual endstops set up and dialed in to about as accurate as I could get with a tape measure on diagonals.

    On to the fun bits! I modified Ryan’s PID sensor mount slightly to fit the smaller sensor housing that comes with the superpid. Bench tests were good from 5k to max rpm via pot control.

    Testing the sensor: https://imgur.com/PAyf4pv
    Testing RPM control: https://imgur.com/PVvfyQ0

    Sensor mounted and wired up.
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    Sensor wire routed out alongside the AC power line.
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    New router next to the old one.
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    Might have to get creative with routing the extra cables and air hose.
    IMG_20190824_124400

     

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #110728

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That poor 660 all strapped to the board in the rpm test that looks like you are about to torture it! hahahaha

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #110789

    Bruh
    Participant

    A bit more progress. Standoffs for the rambo/superpid printed. Started to put together a control box for all of the extra wires and power supply.

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    #112474

    Bruh
    Participant

    More/less complete. Need to tidy up the cable management but other than that everything is functional.

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    • This reply was modified 2 months, 1 week ago by  Bruh.
    • This reply was modified 2 months, 1 week ago by  Bruh.
    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #112560

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That is cool. Have a look at how JellyBox uses there acrylic. It would be insane to label and diagram that like they do.

    #113383

    Bruh
    Participant

    Quick and dirty cable routing for the gantry. All that’s left is to shim the router and it’s ready for test cuts.

    router

    Attachments:
    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #113409

    Todd Graham
    Participant

    Looks great, following thread.   Will order a superPID if this works out well for you.

    #115046

    Bruh
    Participant

    SuperPID seems to work well. I’ve used it in a everything from foam to aluminum with all sorts of different paths. Estlcam’s trochoidal and Fusion 360’s adaptive clearing don’t seem to give the controller much trouble with their constant loading/unloading of the tool.

    First cuts in foam @ 5K. Also my first f360 program 🙂
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    Aluminum at varying speeds:
    IMG_20190915_174846

    • This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by  Bruh.
    • This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by  Bruh.
    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #115321

    Bruh
    Participant

    Played around a bit with tool changing and chamfer end mills. @guffy ‘s post processor is great.

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    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #115334

    Tim
    Participant

    This build is awesome, that air blast is super elegant, and those prints look perfect. Good freakin’ work.

    #115337

    Just a well-built, solid machine. Even going back to the original post of you printed parts. That is some excellent surface regularity. And watching that Dewalt just throwing the chips and the machine just takes it. I wish I had more time to get my dust collector and enclosure done so I can start really getting it dirty like yours. I have mine in a carpeted home office where all my other gadgets live and I need to keep it clean.

    #115482

    Bruh
    Participant

    Runout on these DW660 tools isn’t great. My old tool/collet had about 0.2mm total indicated runout at 25mm below the tool holder. This brand new tool reads about 0.3mm runout at 25mm below the collet. The bore of the collect holder reads next to no runout at roughly 0.02mm. The video is clipped but I did take care to measure at several locations inside the bore of the tool. I measured all these things because there was visible runout in the chamfer tool that I’m using when start/stopping the machine.

    I’m using a 1/8″ HSS drill blank to measure with. I’ll toss it in a v block tomorrow and make sure that it’s not the blank itself that’s dorked.

    A good write up on run out can be found here: https://www.precisebits.com/tutorials/spindle_runout.htm

    Another side note is that this should give you a good idea as to why it’s so important to keep extra forces off of the machine with cable chains, vac attachments, etc. The steppers are powered up and locked for the duration of the video below. You can see just how much of an effect lightly rotating the tool has on the position of the cutter. It was very interesting to push/pull on different parts of the machine to see just how much of an impact was made on the position of the cutter.

    • This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by  Bruh.
    • This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by  Bruh.
    • This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by  Bruh.
    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #115488

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I love real info and not hearsay! Glad you made a clip, thank you. So tool or collet on that one as the shaft is okay/decent.

    Do you have any other spindle options to try? For the cost I just wonder if there is anything even close.

    An indicator and some poking should reveal the next part to get a remake!

    #115490

    Bruh
    Participant

     So tool or collet on that one as the shaft is okay/decent.

    Agreed.

    Do you have any other spindle options to try? For the cost I just wonder if there is anything even close.

    I have a DW611 but I was advised that it might be on the large/heavy side for this machine. I suppose I could measure runout on tmy Dremel though I don’t intend to use it on the mpcnc.

    The precise bits site leads me to believe that this might be par for the course with small handheld cutting tools:

    Our measurements of stock adapters ranged from 0.0030 in. TIR to 0.0100 in. TIR. We did not find a single adapter with less than 0.0030 in. TIR… The aluminum collets found in many hand grinders were the worst of all with TIR measuring as bad as 0.0150 in.

    #116898

    Bruh
    Participant

    @vicious1 I made a separate thread to follow up on runout tests for the DW660: https://www.v1engineering.com/forum/topic/dw660-runout-2/

    Figured that info was less of a build and that others might find it a bit easier if that info had its own thread.

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