24"x42" J Tech Laser/Router build in GA

New Home Forum Mostly Printed CNC – MPCNC Your Builds – MPCNC 24"x42" J Tech Laser/Router build in GA

This topic contains 65 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by  Tim 1 month ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 31 through 60 (of 66 total)
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  • #94372

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Paint is actually a very durable finish, as long as it doesn’t stay wet.

    If you really want to nail that dimension, just move it to 1″, lock the little knob and then put it on the block and take a picture. It’s way easier than fiddling with finishing passes and stuff 😀

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #94373

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    So that is what that little knob is for…

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #94383

    Tim
    Participant

    So that is what that little knob is for…

    I have truly learned a lot since joining this forum.. lol

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #94576

    Tim
    Participant

    Got the control panel done tonight, but the machine is now moving sorta jerky… no idea why. Steppers seem to be turning smoothly but somewhere between the stepper and middle section it goes to hell. Didn’t put much time into diagnosis, will look into it another day. Thought the endmill was getting dull but noticed it was happening on traverses as well.

    #95031

    Tim
    Participant

    Luckily the issues with the MPCNC turned out to be simple… x/y axis roller tension got loose as well as belts. Tightened belts up and the issue was mostly resolved, then tightened the x/y roller tension bolts an issue is gone.

    I machined the spoilboard flat. I really need to get my Z axis perpendicular.

    Also had a weird experience I’ve never had happen before, or at least notice… there was a chunk of… rock? in the MDF… I found a little pebble on the table as it was machining and thought I must have knocked it on there somehow, but then when the machining finished I found the pocket the pebble used to be in. I *think* I’ve heard of people experiencing similar but I have definitely not before, and I machined a lot of MDF back in FSAE.

    Now that I’m on that topic, what is everyone’s favorite stock to work with? MDF is cool and all because it’s so “engineered” but it has no character. The salvaged wood I’ve been working with is on the opposite end of the spectrum! So much character, pretty grain, but also NOT FLAT! Meaning it’s not suitable for v-carving, at all. I have some v bits in hand now so I want to start v carving but I don’t know what I should even look for. Preferably something not super expensive and available at Home Depot for practicing purposes. Any input would be greatly appreciated!

    #97001

    Tim
    Participant

    Resin filled sign.

    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #97008

    Aaryn
    Participant

    Beautiful!

    #102916

    Tim
    Participant

    So my girlfriend is buddy-buddy with the owners of a local coffee shop… and she volunteered me to make them a free sign… But their logo isn’t suitable for anything but v-carving, so I had to figure out v-carving.

     

    This is a 5″ tall piece to figure out how I’m going to finish the actual piece. As well as testing out the whole v-carving deal. Testing for any issues with the aspire post processor.

    Done with a 1/2″, 1/4″ shank 60* v bit Rockler brand.

    Painted inside letters with my girlfriend’s fancy artist acrylic paint.

    Started to sand it off (not shown) but then I dragged the sander through the pile of paint I used to wet the brush with (still wet since it was thicker) and then re-painted the whole thing with the sander 😆

    That’s my sign that I’ve done enough for tonight.

     

    Side note, I tried to do this before using a set of router bits my girlfriend’s dad gave me that he had laying around (import stuff) and the 3/8″ 90* bit I picked out was significantly larger than 90 degrees AND had visible runout (didn’t notice till after) which made the v-carve turn out AWFULLY. I thought the machine was doing some crazy stuff.

    Pictures are of my first attempt with non-garbage tooling.

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    #102923

    Jamie
    Participant

    Grateful Dead fans? Especially that first picture bears quite a resemblance…

    Nice work by the way.

    #102933

    Tim
    Participant

    Grateful Dead fans? Especially that first picture bears quite a resemblance…

    Nice work by the way.

    They make whiskey barrel aged coffee so it’s supposed to resemble a whiskey barrel, I think!

    #102957

    Tim
    Participant

     

    Ain’t half bad!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #102959

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Better get a free Latte for that fine work!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    Tim
    #103154

    Tim
    Participant

    Will get resin filled later this week… Father’s day gift for my dad…

    I know I’ve posted several things out of this same material, but it was cheaaap, 10″ wide, and machines pretty nicely for pine. Minimal stringiness. Oh, and I think it looks quite nice too. 😉

    When I run out of this stuff I’m not sure what I’ll move on to next… I want to make stuff that’s taller, more in the range of 18-24″ tall, but I don’t want to use MDF or Plywood and I don’t have a jointer/planer so I don’t think I can make decent edge glued panels. Home Depot sells “project panels” that are made of edge joined boards but they are only pine as far as I know. Didn’t see anything like what I’m wanting at Rockler, mayhaps an actual wood store would have something.

    Alternatively I found out one of my neighbors has a sawmill and has been running a little side-business so that could definitely be an awesome source of material.

    #103183

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    The saw mill would be fun, but they would still need to be surfaced.

    You can join boards with a jig on the table saw, or on the router table. I bought my planer and my joiner on craigslist. They needed new blades but were otherwise in good shape.

    #103184

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Also, ikea has countertops that might work for you.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    Tim
    #103196

    Tim
    Participant

    Also, ikea has countertops that might work for you.

    I did think about those butcher block countertops but I wasn’t sure if they were solid wood or not! Good idea

     

    i was figuring I could surface the slabs with a router sled and orbital sander. Though that’s definitely time consuming.

    #103202

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    i was figuring I could surface the slabs with a router sled and orbital sander. Though that’s definitely time consuming.

    If only there was some sort of router that could move on it’s own.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #103203

    Tim
    Participant

    i was figuring I could surface the slabs with a router sled and orbital sander. Though that’s definitely time consuming.

    If only there was some sort of router that could move on it’s own.

    Dude, we should invent that… automated routers… the future

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #103240

    Barry
    Participant

    Menards has butcher block.  It’s solid wood.  Built a built in desk with some.

    #103338

    Tim
    Participant

     

    Bonus video…

    Yeah, I’m playing with fire and resin on my dining table… what about it??

    If you look long enough you’ll see imperfections. We can’t all be perfect 😉 I think next time I’ll pocket deeper, the resin just soaked into the wood around the edges and blurred the lines a bit. The mirror finish is nice though!

    For reference, these pockets were 0.2″ deep and used a total of around 2.2oz of resin between the 3 of them. I think I could go to 0.3″ or maybe even 0.4″ and keep the resin dosing the same and any absorption of resin into the wood wouldn’t make it to the top surface. I guess I could also put some sort of sealant/polyurethane/clear coat on the wood before resin but I didn’t want to change the coloring or surface appearance of the wood at all.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #103353

    Barry
    Participant

    I think you’re supposed to hit it with some clear poly first.  Will look just fine on a wall though.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    Tim
    #103358

    Tim
    Participant

    I think you’re supposed to hit it with some clear poly first. Will look just fine on a wall though.

    Yeah I think that is definitely the way to go. I did do the other sign without any poly though, I was just more careful (used syringes to put the resin in) about the level on that one. So it is possible if you’re not tired and rushing!

    This poly I have (spray on satin finish) tends to bring out all the earthy yellow-y colors in this wood, which I don’t like compared to the more grey/neutral weathered look it has to begin with.

    A lot of people also over-fill the epoxy then put it through a drum sander/planer to flatten it back out. I think I prefer the way I’ve done it because you retain the naturally glossy finish and the depth that comes with it.

    Anyone ever tried machining through some sort of tape? With the v-carving stuff it would be great to have some sort of mask that could be machined through, paint the inside of the letters, then peel the tape up… But I assume the bit would just tear out the tape?

    #103367

    Jamie
    Participant

    I bet you would have the same problem with epoxy wicking under the tape instead of (or in addition to) wicking into the wood grain.

    I’ve seen a trick (never done it myself) where you hit with clear coat first so a little wicking under the mask is invisible. Then come in with color afterward and it won’t wick because all the gaps are already filled. I think that could work for you and you can keep the natural surface untouched after the tape is removed.

    #103371

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Yeah, I’m playing with fire and resin on my dining table… what about it??

    Isn’t that what they are for?…Eating is one of the things I do least on my table. I see a giant open clean sturdy table and just gravitate towards it.

    #103376

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    This poly I have (spray on satin finish) tends to bring out all the earthy yellow-y colors in this wood, which I don’t like compared to the more grey/neutral weathered look it has to begin with.

    Water based poly (polycrylic) doesn’t have the yellow tint, but it does have a bit of a plastic feel to it.

    I have used Jamie’s trick with painters tape before on wall corners. You tape the edge, then cover with clear coat, then come over it with paint. The paint can’t get under the tape because of the clear, and the clear left on the wall gets covered by paint. There is sometimes some clear that gets under the tape, but not so obvious as the red.

    The trick with carving through tape is you have to be able to cut it easier than peel it, or the bit will just pull it off. Think of those crappy veneers on plywood, tape is a much crappier veneer. Worth a try with a few different tapes and pressing the hell out of it first.

    #103904

    Tim
    Participant

    I’m considering upgrading to dual endstops so I can more easily run programs that require more than one tool.

    But I figure if I’m going to upgrade I might as well upgrade to stainless while I’m at it… Which requires a full re-print of course..

    In the mean time I guess I’ll play around with hard stops and see how much I mind them.

    Semi un-related, I was going through old videos and found a couple of me running some stuff on the absolutely massive 5 axis router my school has…

    In this video I was machining a mold for our carbon fiber seat. The mold is made up of a bunch of layers of 3/4″ MDF stacked together and glued. The layers are cut 1 by 1 into 2d profiles, then after the glue up, it is machined to match the final shape.

     

    I think that second video is running at something like 1000ipm?

    Either way neither of the videos are anywhere close to stressing that machine… I always erred wayyyyy on the side of caution because I was terrified of crashing the behemoth. Work area 98″x61″x29″…

    From my understanding it was an almost $400,000 machine new. 22k rpm spindle. 15hp spindle. 300FPM rapids. (Yes, it’s TERRIFYING when you home the machine and the table comes flying towards you at 3600 IPM)

    Sorry, just showing off I guess 🙂

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #104889

    Tim
    Participant

    Officially the biggest piece (24″ diameter) I’ve done yet… Stringy stringy pine 😛

    Running the v bit tonight when I get home, wish me luck!

    This is me testing hard stops. I’m still having jitter issues across multiple cam softwares (I thought maybe Fusion was outputting too many individual line segments/small arcs and overloading repetier host/minirambo so I’ve tried estlcam and Aspire). If I could solve that I would be so much happier. It seems to have minimal effect on the final part so I’ve basically given up…

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #104903

    donc
    Participant

    I am from Texas and the Texas piece is soo cool.  Did you do the whole design with Vectric, or just the Cam part?

    Also, can you please give more detail on the resin?

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    Tim
    #104913

    Tim
    Participant

    I am from Texas and the Texas piece is soo cool. Did you do the whole design with Vectric, or just the Cam part?

    Also, can you please give more detail on the resin?

    I work with vectors at work all day so I have a Coreldraw license as well. What I did was find a SVG of Texas, then added the lines dividing it into 3 parts, then saved the SVG, imported the SVG into Fusion 360, used it as the basis for my 3d model, then did the cam in Fusion.

    I only ever use Vectric if I’m specifically v-carving. Fusion doesn’t do v-carving like Vectric does.

    The resin was from Amazon–it’s casting resin, brand “Art ‘N Glow”. I bought the 16 oz kit (which is pricey at $25 but I didn’t want to buy the entire gallon before I knew if I hated the process) and the Texas sign used around ~1.5oz total (so about $2.50, not cheap!) of resin. (12″x12″ and the pockets are 0.2″ deep)

    I dyed the resin with Acrylic paint in this case–I bought some specific resin dyes from “Black Diamond” but the issue I have with those is the red is more pink than red… or at least it looks pink in the bag so I didn’t try it. You can dye resin with a lot of stuff safely, some things will mess with the curing and it’ll never fully cure–but acrylic paint is one of the safe options.

    If you have any specific questions I’m happy to answer!

    #104970

    Tim
    Participant

     

    Had some minor misalignment between job 1 (pocketing) and job 2 (vcarving) which is a bummer, but thankfully it’s pine and I think I can fix the mistakes with a razor blade easily. Most likely I will just paint the inside of the letters, no resin. That said, if I can’t get the bottom looking good, I’m considering painting, then filling with resin just enough to hide the sins on the bottom of the pockets. Unfortunately I leave for Las Vegas Thursday and I have to design, cut, and finish a sign for my uncle before my flight so this bad boy isn’t getting any attention till after I get home…

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